I had some guests in town and haven't had a chance to put much time into the car, I am waiting for new CAS shielded wiring. I was not getting spark and I think that its related to a ground issue and my makeshift CAS wire(s)...so I am going to do it right and hopefully that will send the signal to ECU and then fire the coils...I will update later this week guys, thanks for checking in!

 

Guests? You should have put em to work! lol

Cool just let us know if you get her started!

 

a small victory, I have spark

I rewired mostly everything and mounted my relays and coils and I now have spark... still no start though...

I need to buy some starting fluid and see if that will get her going. I have fuel at the rail, not sure about my injectors though... I'll update soon

 

Well congrats on the small victory, You'll get her going soon enough!

Good luck!

 

I pulled my CAS, spun it and I hear my injector's clicking...so they work in theory anyways.

I pulled my plugs and the results
T1- dry
T2- some fuel residue
L1- some fuel
L2- some fuel

The fuel on the plugs didn't really smell very fresh/strong, so I am going to add more fresh fuel and see what that does...I also added too much 2 cycle last time anyways so maybe that will help.
__________________________________________________ ________________________

Hears a quote from Steve84GS TII-
"That airbox and snorkle are not needed,just restrictive junk.

The MAF or AFM, is the electrical device that measures the air going into the engine,and its the heart of the EFI system.Its aluminum and has a flapper door in it.
You need every electronic device that plugs into the big wiring harness that leads to the engine.Some of the rats nest stuff on the engine can go,but all the sensors that mount to the right side fender and plug into that harness,MUST BE INTACT.....that includes,
The Air Flow Meter (big silver box)
The Boost sensor (little black box with a vacuum hose and electrical plug)
The Baro sensor (also a little black box,goes inside the car next to the ECU)
The ECU (the brain box that runs the engine)

Read up on that link,its the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL from Mazda.It has all the info and pics you need and its never wrong.Sometimes info in the aftermarket books is just flat wrong,although the Hayes is one of the better ones.It has many pics pulled directly from the factory book,but the factory one has every single little part laid out an explained with clear pictures which makes it MUCH easier to learn what each part is and what it does.

Also,be sure that any electrical parts you get for your setup are matching.There were 3 basic systems on the 2nd gen car,2 types of S4 and the one S5.You CANNOT mix and match them or you will have problems.
The break points are......
86 - 87.5
87.5 - 88
89 - 92

The easiest way to make sure you are getting things right,is to match the numbers on the parts,with the numbers on the ECU.You did get an ECU with the engine right?The ECU(fuel injection brain box) will have a number on it like N332 or N370.Whatever parts you need to get still,must match the number on the ECU box.If you dont have an ECU box,you need to find out EXACTLY what year/month your engine is/was so that you can determine which ECU is correct for the injectors you are running.If you are not sure,you can read the numbers and colors of the fuel injectors and we/I can tell you exactly which series/type of FC engine you have. "
__________________________________________________ ________________________

I have the N327 ecu that came with the car, including same injectors, and engine harness... Something I dont have is the "Boost Sensor or Baro sensor" do I need these Items to get the 13b to run or idle at least?

I have Compression, spark, and fuel I think...why isn't this bitch running yet?

Thanks for the help guys...

 

Too much two stroke may have ruined your A/f Mixture....try more fresh gas so you know for sure the mixture is ok. You will need that manifold pressure sensor aka "Boost" sensor. Don't know if it WON'T run with out it but you're going to want it since it has a vacuum line on it from the intake manifold. You don't want any vacuum leaks.

As for the Baro sensor, I'm not sure I have that and now that you posted that I'm going to find out for sure! Thank you.

You aren't accidently using the wrong ECU right? I have like 3 mazda ECU's laying around so I know it could have been a problem for me. Maybe not for you though.

 

so have you jumped the yellow plug near the AFM and pressure sensor, is that how you know that you have fuel to rails? while you have the fuel pump going with the yellow pump jumped do you turn your CAS gear to fire the injectors to chk the fuel? if that is the case and you dont have fuel, you may have the fuel supply and return hooked up incorrectly on the vac rack.

 

3rd and final 7:
I checked for fuel at the main supply line... not sure about jumping the yellow plug, never did that...

I checked the fuel injectors by turning key to on, and turning the CAS gear...I heard the clicks

I dont have the vacuum sensor yet, I'm going to get one though...

 

if you jump the 2 female connectors in the yellow plug it will turn on the fuel pump

 

Here's a good question and something I almost did wrong. If/when you took the crank angle sensor gear out and reinstalled it in the front cover did you line up the gear with the housing?
This process is shown on page 4B-51 in the Fuel and Emissions section of the second gen FSM.

 

yeah jacob I lined up the two marks on the CAS...but theirs no mark on the front cover right? Just make sure the gear doesn't turn when You match it up with the drive gear inside the engine.... and of course have the bolt hole match up with the threaded portion of the front cover.

 

No there is no mark on the front cover just make sure the pointer on the cover is lined up with the yellow timing mark on your crank pulley when you install it.

 

hey 3rd and final heres a pic of my fuel line location





the right side is fuel supply... left side is return line

 

Are you sure about that Tommie? I thought it was the other way around.

 

i just chked my fuel vac rack and it is the other way around bc it goes in on the left hit the primary rail and then goes to the secondary on the firewall side and then goes on the FPR, your fuel is being stopped by the FPR bc its going in backwards

 

SWEET thats a good thing...I'll change it tommorrow and hope she fires up...thanks alot guys!

With trouble shooting its usually the stupid stuff....

 

I was seriously scratching my head going I swear those fuel lines are backwards! hahah

Good luck Tommie!

 

thanks jacob...i'm excited for tommorrow

I just bought the pressure sensor and have a pre cat on the way too...

 

are you guys coming out to the Nor Cal meet https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-forum-193/official-norcal-rotary-meet-bbq-oct-25th-867676/page9/

 

Possible but I won't be in the FB. I'd take the Z06 if I go at all.

 

I cant make this meet, but hopefully the next one...

engine wants to fire now, just wont...I am working tonight so I'll have to wait until Tuesday to check my timing...

I definitely am getting fuel now!

 

thats good , your almost there!

 

I have a smplete S minuts the ecu and harness in my garage. Have been waiting and watching for an SE for a swap. Thought about a gsl but then I'd have to upgrade the fuel lines, get an ecu and harness, or more likely get a racing beat intake and go carb.

 

84stock, here is my swap page. I did an S4 NA into my GSL-SE.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/1984-gsl-se-s4-13b-project-832622/

 

into a GSLSE is not big deal, the n/a cars need a fuel system upgrade and ecu to complete though.