i'd measure some, but i need to order em too!

 

I actually sort of torn on the modern versus old school Mazda logo. An SA is the first to use the modern logo, but even then it was still sort of old school, what with being outlined in chrome on the original emblem (both of mine are stainless-steel now.)
For example, my engine doesn't say "Mazda" on the housings. It says "Toyo Kogyo."

FBs may need the modern logo, but I think the SA is sort of one foot in either realm. I like the old school "M" logo stickers as well, actually.

Eh, the modern logo will look fine, really - it's whats on the original waffles, and the "plus" wheels, after all.

 

Actually last night, got these pieces:

13B:
Money shot:
Header:

Also got a two piece RB intake mani for my DHLA 48. Thanks again Chad.

 

On the 85 GSL EV I replaced the long headlight rod on both sides and then readjusted everything. They work properly again! Went for a 22 mile drive. I think the nylon bushing fails when it drys out and the headlight is miss adjusted so that it is not resting on the stop but is instead hanging from the rod. I was hoping I could take the remaining ones off and reuse them after boiling to put the water back into the nylon. But both were already split, they just hadn't fallen off the rod yet.

On the 85 GSL-SE I got the bottom oil line to the cooler off the car completely but the other line is much more difficult to get to. I am going to have to see if I can find a procedure. There just isn't any room to get a wrench in there at the front of the motor. Maybe there is something in the archives here.

 

Just a pain in the rump. I jack the engine up and remove the engine cross mount to get to it; seemed like the eaziest solution to me. Although I have ready access to a back hoe.




Not done to MY RX7 but....
I finished raping the FB in the junk yard today. Not much left out there; just the body and fenders.
Transmission, engine, carbs, doors, hood, and other nick nacs from the front end are gone. And it only took a week

 

The generic ones I got at McF-D seem to work; I won't know for sure until I can drive the car over some bad road, and it's been raining all day. Fuel door no longer bounces and rattles when tapped on, so that's a good sign.

 

got my 12a sp keg put together today...finally. now all that is left is everything!

 

Resorting to a backhoe seems a little excessive <grin>.

I thought of this approach, problem is I don't own a cherry picker so I would need to borrow one again. And it looks almost as tight getting the motor mount nuts off. I don't think you can remove it from the bottom.

I have another idea. Hacksaw off the hose as close to the fitting as possible and slip a 26mm box end wrench or deep well socket over the fitting. It looks like there is room for that.

The layout chosen was not the best from a maintenance standpoint but then when they originally built it they probably didn't think the hoses would wear out. And besides, all that maint stuff happens somewhere else.

 

On 85 SE I continued to try to remove the top line to the oil cooler. Still no joy. I was going to try to slip the box end over the hose onto the fitting but the hose crimp is too large. The hacksaw approach is looking better all the time. Or maybe even the backhoe approach. Removed the fan to make a little more room. Now I think I should probably replace the belts. The original hoses had some foam around them in the places where it was possible they could rub on something. I found a suitable replacement at the hardware store and was able to get it on the new hoses.

On the EV I drove to the hardware store to shop for the above mentioned foam pieces. When I got back I decided it was a shame to waste the day so I replaced the front turn signals with LED's out in the driveway. I've had the LED's for a while but you need to install a load resistor on the turn signal line or the car thinks there is no bulb and flashes fast. So power savings only when the running lights are on, not when the signal is blinking. But then you don't run the blinkers all that often. Saved about 2 amps when the running lights are on. And that took me up to sunset when it started to feel cold out.

 

I actually got a chance to work on my 79 today, first time in 2 months due to work. Had the engine out already back in November and now finally getting time to clean things up in the engine bay. Got most of the grime off where I could. Not going for a complete strip and repaint or anything like that so the wiring and major components remained in place. Surprising just how much of it you can get clean when you use a toothbrush though.

Next project, clean the battery and rad supports and repaint them, then onto steering box removal so I can disassemble to hopefully figure out why the adjuster is seized up, then adjust the play out of it.

 

I did it this way, only substitute a jack and board under the oil pan for the backhoe/engine crane. That engine mount plate has to come off, or you're doomed.

 

I'm starting to get super discouraged . With my job cuttin me down to 10 hours a week, I just haven't had the money to throw to her let alone paying my bills on time. It's been sitting for a couple months now and I am just getting sad and frustrated that I can't put work in on it :'(.

 

Apparently the fuel door was not the primary source of the noise; it's still there!

Checked the spare and the jack, both locked down tight; Might have been the jack handle &/or lug wrench, so I took them out & will retest tonight.

Sound seems to occur primarily when hitting a bump or hole with only one rear wheel; so that there's a difference in axle movement left & right.

I guess I better get up under the rear & check out my sway bar attachments & rear links, too. It's strange, though, because the noise seems to come from higher up in the cabin than that.

Mysteries, bleah.

 

My bet is on an exhaust hangar. I've had them go and the exhaust bangs around up
above the rear axle and hits shields and things. Makes some noise and only when
that side is pushed up by hitting a bump with the RR wheel.

 

That'd be a good bet, except that I just replaced all of them about 10 months ago.

I spent an hour under the car inspecting exhaust hangers (fine) and all the suspension bolts and bushings (likewise fine).

The front runner is now my hatch seal, which is 1) original to the car, and 2) is squashed completely flat (as in, no loft, and more or less displaced outward) at the corners and showing signs of deterioration.

Which would mean my first instinct, where it sounded like the hatch was not latched, would be more or less vindicated.

$130 from Black Dragon... I hesitate to even check what OEM would cost, if they even still sell them.

I'm going to pack some EPP packing material under the hatch & test it again, but I'm about 97% sure I've got the right ID this time. The noise is just so distinctive.

 

made my alternator relocation bracket

 

Nice you got more pics?

 

I did a little braiding...

 

nice gratuitus shot of the 20B in the backround

 

Nice Im liking the engine bay

ill get some more pics of the bracket tmw, I left my unheated workshop as soon as the welding was done (not fun working with bare hands and thick metal in 20 degree temps, after a while the hands stop functioning ) Ill head back out tmw to trim some of the extra meat off it

Lol, its just some of my "Y" irons and old housings I was playing around with. It would be awesome if it was a short crank 20b tho

 

decided what i'm going to blow my tax return on...

RX7 1975-1985: Suspension Packages: Suspension Package - 79-85 RX-7 -

that plus some much needed shocks, and possibly tie rods, and the car should be planted, hopefully...

 

I took my driveshaft to have new u-joints put in should be ready tomorrow.

 

Pedal install - Auto Zone $20. So far i'm loving them!

High enough quality part, but the screws and nuts they use to affix them are scrawny. Not sure how long they'll hold up - we'll see!

 

^That don't look bad at all. I was gunna re-install my driveshaft but, I don't have a garage and it has been pouring rain since last night and it ain't letting up.

 

Mazdatrix has them for $103. If you get the part number and buy it from yourcarpart.com it'd probably be even cheaper...