There should not be any difference between the inner and outer brake light turn on that you can see. The difference would be a nanosecond per foot of additional wire. If you are seeing a difference it would be something in the bulb electronics although this would surprise me. Swapping the inside bulb with the outside bulb would change the turn on order if this is the case.

I considered replacing the flasher with one that doesn't signal a bulb outage but I just put load resistors on the signal and brake line side because it only presents a load when the lamp is turned of so most of the time it doesn't present any additional load. I was more concerned with reducing load at night when the running lights are on.

You can buy the LED bulbs with the load resistor integrated now. They call these CAN bus bulbs because they provide the load so the CAN doesn't report a burned out bulb. Those would be the easiest ones to use.

At night the load on the alternator from the running lights is about 12 amps. This is about 1/5 of a horsepower load on the motor through the alternator. When you are stepping on the brakes to turn the lights on this load would increase to about 1/3 to 1/2 of a HP. But you don't care about this additional load because you are stepping on the brakes.

 

U-joints weren't the issue, my clanging is still there and may be a rear end issue.

 

Which is fine at the local, "friendly racing" level. At a National event, they will get you for not having sunvisors if a stock interior is specified.
besides, it IS just friendly racing. Race against yourself, because, seriously, you won't be competitive against anything in your class. Ever since the put us in the same class as Miatas and MR2s, it was pretty much over.

 

I've got an electronic flasher in mine, so if I change to LEDs, I shouldn't have the issue. The part is direct-fit, and appears to be discontinued, but there are generic ones (basically GM-type pinout) that you should be able to retrofit with a little adapter wiring.

I took some pics of the one in my '79 for an earlier thread:
'79 RX-7 Electronic Flasher

 

Right - it was my understanding that this would be the case. I've been hesitant to switch to LED's for this very reason.

Whats this trick for FD's you speak of? I'm sure we can reverse engineer this for the FB.

 

Cheers! Much appreciated!!

~Geoff

 

My understanding is that the increased rate of flash with a burned out bulb was an intentional thing. It was so you would know that bulb was not there. LED's present a load of maybe 0.2 amps instead of 2 amps so even the electronic flashers might trigger a high rate flash if it doesn't see the load of a bulb.

I've got a question but it probably belongs elsewhere so I will put it there wherever that is.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ht-way-943516/

Click the link... Again... I am not technical to figure that part out

 

Pulled my battery out to charge it. I need to test my alt, it doesn't seem to keep up with the battery drain very well. Maybe time to do an upgrade.

 

80a TII alt works great for my setup. And I have a battery with 650CCA at 0*F and 800CCA at 32*F - a little over kill

I got this in today

 

Yesterday:

Pulled the stereo stack for another forum member to use in their car. This has got to be one of the easiest things I have done with the car in recent memory. It just all worked like it should. I measured the bracket on the stereo in case that needs to go with the stereo gear. I will make a new bracket with aircraft ply and fiberglass (and maybe a little carbon fiber just because it is such neat stuff) if necessary.

I also played with taking photos of the right rear taillight to show the difference between LED brake light bulbs and the original factory 1157's. You can see those on my LED thread.

I glared at the hose coming out of the front of the motor on the SE that is so poorly engineered that it appears you have to remove the motor mount to get access.

And I went for a drive in the EV. About to do that again.

Get your FB out and drive it a bit!

 

Today:

Taking a break from working on removing the front oil cooler hose on the SE. Making progress. I decided since I had the fan off and the AC belt off that I should change all the belts. They weren't in danger of dying but not in great shape either. Its 90% of the way so finish the job. Turns out this was a good idea. When I went to loosen the air pump I discovered that there was no belt tensioner bolt I pushed on the belt and it pivoted. Great! Stole the bolt off the 12a air pump tensioner and checked for fit. Figured the last person to work on this must have tightened the heck out of the pivot bolt and that was the case as it broke off when I went to loosen it. Great! Now I get to break the law and remove the air pump <grin>. I did manage to get it all apart and the bolt stub came right out. Grabbed the bolt from the 12a and it is the same. Whew! It is good to have a parts car. Anyway, I got the alternator belt and the air pump belt changed out and now working on finishing up the oil line.

I took another picture of the LED brake lights comparison with a filament bulb in the day light. I will go post that on the LED thread right after I finish this. I also took the 85 EV to the car wash to get rid of the salty sludge. Even put tire foam on the tires so it has the used car lot look.

 

I put in some floor mats and washed it. The interior doesn't look too bad for a 28 year old car.

 

Today was a productive day.

SA - Some rewiring, carb tuning, pulled Trailing MSD and whole ignition, remounted FC fuse block, and probably more.

Cleaned up some TII seats I picked up yestersday.

GSLSE - Pulled the wiring harness from the engine bay to prep it for paint, pulled the leaking brake master cylinder, pulled the power steering components (going to run it manual since I don't have a pump), cleaned up the door panels, and started grinding parts until I realized it may be too late and I may irritate my neighbors.

 

well I finally busted the seal on it ...

another SA ...

 

Did you ever notice, Ray, that the gas cover lock on the models is on the wrong side of the door?

The keyhole should be on the REAR edge.

 

damnit it you right ... was so jazzed the exhaust, dash with speaker grill, plaid seats, etc, etc and etc were right that slipped right passed me .. oh well a little sanding and tiny bit of puddy can fix

 

Well the adapter to make my grinder a buffer finally came in.
Going to polish the other 3 wheel lips tomorrow once I pick up a couple more rags.

 

New hatch seal has arrived.

 

Let us know how it fits!

 

I drove mine to Hyundai to drop my mom off to pick up her car and when I got home I saw a 10 inch long scuff under the RX7 badge on my fender but I got most of it off with a pencil eraser, it just left a little brown streak instead of a very visible black streak.. still no idea when or how it happened.. not too pissed lol.

 

Fit perfect. Because:





It's OEM Mazda, and from Japan no less.

Here's how flat my old seal was:


And height of newly-installed seal:


Set my latch all the way to the top of it's adjustment range, and it's still pretty darned tight. I'm sure it will take a set after a few days, though.

Fresh new sealant already inside the groove, too.

Trick to installing: The two "notches" in the skirt line up with the drain holes along the lower hatch opening.

Test drive tomorrow night, but I feel confident that I've fixed the horrid rattle.

 

nice, where did you buy it from? online?

 

Black Dragon; online, yes.

 

Shinny Craftsman.. DIG