been making the daily trek from buena park to irvine for my new job, and i have no problems to report other than i miss my air conditioning and i have a slight wheel wobble up front at about 35-40. will investigate this weekend or sooner if it gets any worse.

 

On the door handle trim project: Still getting quotes on plating. Looking at three possible processes: true triple chrome process (copper, nickel, chrome), vacuum metallizing, and the newer 'spectra-chrome' type water-bourne silvering process.

Best price so far is around $25 per piece just for the plating. I'm hoping to find better with a little diligence. I wanted to have one done for SevenStock but that's not crucial.

 

What did I do today? I drove the blue one to get some paint stripper to prep a set of R5 plates for...

Is this thread ok to post about other daily rotary stuff other than strictly FB? Like the SA? or REPU etc?

I'm sure SA is allowed. But what about old school and rotary project stuff?

 

SA is no problem and the REPU we'll let slide Come on dump the beans.

What insane motor you cooking up now?

 

Spent time reading various threads and other internet sources to decide what to tacke first - new exhaust from engine to tailpipe or takcle all of the undercarriage rust from the lack of care from its previous owners.

 

Take care of structural rust first. That way, if you find that the car is non-repairable, you haven't already got all your nice parts on it.

 

Ordered a buncha stock parts today. Shocks, struts, springs, motor mounts, side emblems, and this key chain for the extra key I bought.

 

Took apart my Mikuni and cleaned up the internals & did some adjustments. Also simplified the turbo lines between my carb hat & intercooler to get rid of a long standing vacuum leak. Overall the car is running better now than even before I took it apart, probably better than the last owner had it running the whole time he had it.

Now if I only had time for the five million other things I need to do to it. Hopefully I will get time to do an oil change this weekend.

 

Story of a rotary.

I walked by and gave her a pat. I would be working on her a little bit this weekend but it's duck opener this weekend and I'm in Formula SAE tomorrow night at school so I guess she'll sit all alone for another week. Poor thing.

 

I put some RTV on my third member and got it back in and torqued down, reinstalled the new driveshaft, and removed the engine oil pan to put the new gasket in.

 

You used the gear-oil-resistant silicone, right?

 

this is kind of a non SA/FB update, but here is this week in rotary, for me.

i think i sold the Rx8, waiting on moneys. the hunt for Rx8 #2 is about to commence.

the 89 convertible has been parked for the last 3 months, as i've been playing with the 8, and the drivers door handle has been acting up (it works intermittently?!?!?), i'm waiting to sell the 8, and hopefully the door handle fixes itself.

the 91. i measured up the suspension, and put it into our suspension spreadsheet. i also finished bolting the fenders on. the vert is stock, and a good DD, the 91 coupe, is getting a ground up rebuild, paint, an REW engine, and i might even have all the hardware replated, it might be done for sevenstock 2112....

i'm also building a T2 engine for my friend, i've got it about 80% cleaned up and ready, i think it needs side seals, and rotor oil seals and its ready to go back together.

Peepers i haven't touched, mike #2 still has my battery. at this rate i should just drain the radiator, and fill it with coolant for the winter....

 

Hmmm. Maybe I should check the label. Is there a specific one for the diff? I read on here and the general consensus seemed to be red rtv, so that's what I used.

 

There's a green-label Permatex version that's specifically made to resist gear lube, called "Gear Oil RTV Sealant." The silicone itself is silver-grey.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_maker.htm

 

^its much more vital when using full synth gear lube... as a matter of fact most full syn bottles will say specifically not for use w/ RTV sealants. But, yeah, thats the stuff used when i put my diff back in



As for what i did today...

1. installed my hockey puck....I mean motor mounts today

2. discovered in the process of #1 that my water pump is leaking slowly but surely, and seeing that i will be putting 300+ miles and a track day on it soon, I ordered up a new pump...should be here tmw

3. put the final touches on my front coilovers/camber plates and should have them in by tmw night after work, and then head back to my work place to pre-emptively screw them in the long run by buying a lifetime alignment package at my employee price

 

I started boost prepping my 650. I can't wait to hear this thing run!

 

Kits Gauge, Revolution Gauges Series by SpeedHut

 

Got mine inspected yesterday. You Cali guys are gonna love this.












Took all of 5 minutes and was 1/4 mile from my house.

Pull up, wait for tech. He stands in front of car and yells lights, left, right. Goes to the back and
yells left, right, brakes. Asks for mileage, disappears with owners card. Walks back out and I
pay him $13.60 and I drive away.

 

 

Got one better then that, here in Missouri if the car is going to be registered as a historic all they do is check the Odometer and the VIN number, long as you have a title it is then registered and you never have to take it in for state inspections

 

may have ya beat ... may renew reg as a classic this weekend ... just sign paper stating didn't drive car more the 5k the previous year and that the odometer was working ... wooooot

 

That's nothing, my inspection goes like this :

I walk out to the garage, open the door, and pause for a moment of quiet appreciation, then walk back inside.

 

Man, South carolina has all of you beat...

I drove my Dodge Dakota to the SCDMV. I showed the lady at the counter my title for the RX7 and she issued my plate.

Even better if I find a 1979 tag (it doesn't matter where it came from or what it came from) I don't ever have to tag it again. Effectivly removing the DMV from the equasion.

 

No inspections here and I got the antique tag which is good for as long as I own the car with no need for renewal. All I did was go to the place, say I wanted an antique tag, signed a statement saying its basically a 25 year or older car, pay my $22 and was done.

 

Thanks guys. I really hate to pull it back off but it's not like it takes long. I am planning to fill it with Red Line synthetic, so it sounds like a worthwhile redo.