Finally found a Paint Shop I liked and dropped the car off. Should take about two weeks. I'll post pics when it's back.
Oh, Also ordered 15" wheels and tires from TireRack.

 

Rewinds?

 

Put in my technotoytuning coilovers for the rear. Gotta figure out how to get it past frame or if I just have to cut the frame to fit it fully

All in all came out alright and the ride is pretty good. Happy with the product

 

Changed oil and fuel filter in anticipation of the Blue Ridge Rotary Run road trip. Should be 1500 plus miles over the weekend. Yahoo!

 

No. I went with some AR's. I wanted something that looks like it could have been OEM back in 85 (period correct)

 

I had 14" American Racing Indy's on my GS back in the 80's.

 

Just my 2-cents... You can cut a notch in outer wheel well skin and frame shock tube
so not to have the bulge in image ... or you can stretch the outer metal wheel well skin and frame shock tube... with a dolly and hammer to make it look factory...
as long the shocks is seated right and fully bolted in you should be fine!

kidrotary... oh nice ride!

 

I love the look of longchamps

 

Any input would be greatly appreciated

 

Sounds like it's running on only one rotor....

 

that's what I was thinking. Engine has excellent compression, issues began after the carb rebuild and emissions delete

 

Interested to see more of your installation of these. Debating where I want to get some suspension from in the future!

 

Started to strip the interior.......while wearing a bio-hazard suit.

 

Did you do anything to the timing?

 

Thanks for the advice. I didn't think of using a dolly so I shall try that! haha

 

Nothing at all was don't to the timing

 

OK you just did a rebuild ... i think it could be a no fuel issues

1. To rule out no fuel issue put a bit of fuel in card ... start car ... it should just run for a few seconds and die out ... if it runs... then you know ... rebuild was the problem ... also check fuel pressure and fuel atomization in card when opening throttle.

2. If fuel is not the issue ... disconnect trailing/leading vac lines... start car it should run ...
if its does ...you know its a vac line/ timing issue... not a realy mechanic... hope it helps.

kidrotary

 

Blew out my hatch & sunroof drain holes.

 

Installed a Grant GT wood wheel, Love it.

 

Received my rotor shaped oil filler cap and master cylinder cover yesterday! Finally installed the MSD 6A ignition box and fired her up. Starts really easily and feels much smoother while accelerating. I'm a happy camper once again!

 

Here's the pic along with a shot of Rexy on the dyno at Classified Motorsports in Kelowna, BC. She turned out 187hp at the flywheel and 168 rwhp/146 lb/ft TQ @ 6800 rpm. Not too shabby for a Nikki carb with mechanical secondaries. Will move over to a RB Holley streetport kit during the winter

 

That is impressive...I assume the 12A has been ported?

fm

 

You didn't mention the fuel filter...

 

I replaced the fuel filter and dropped off the tank to be boiled/sealed the same day I brought her home

 

Hm, if its only running on one rotor - it could be possible you bumped the wires to the igniters and they snapped off. If your tachometer is working, then your trailing is fine, check the leading ignitor.

You'll want to verify the wire is fully in contact with the ignitor connector plug. If it passes visual, i'd hit it with a multimeter and see if the ignitor plug and coil plug connect through.

What I did on mine was pull the terminal cover back up the wire a bit, cut the wires off the plug (one was busted already), strip back some freshies, then crimp on a new set of female connectors, stick them on the ignitor directly, then moved the sheath over them. Looks OEM, but has brand new terminal connectors. I suggest proper wire crimps and dielectric (bulb) grease on the crimp and terminal both.

Leading coil is front-most, on the left from a top-down view.