Thanks for the tip, Mel - - will check them out. Glendora's not so very far away.

My source for the wheels said there might be a chance of a little rubbing on full-lock turns with 205's and this rim width / offset. I'm still tinkering with numbers and want to crawl under the car to do a lil measuring this weekend before I decide. I know my 205 60 13's just barely clear the springs up front at some points in travel.

Welcome back! looks pretty clean, sir, though that battery ground clamp looks a lil chancy.

 

I made a bracket to mount a fuse box to the drivers side strut tower. Once the paint dried I mounted it. See 1st photo.

The reason I added a fuse box was all the systems I have been adding which should be individually fused but I was just adding them ad hoc. So I was ending up with a rats nest of a different kind. Photo 2 shows that a little.

This fuse box is tied to the on or running position of the key switch. One fuse drives the motor controller. One fuse drives the electric vacuum pump. And one fuse drives the water pump for the motor controller. This leaves three for future uses. I hope to get this all wired up this weekend.

 

tire zone

 

have you guys seen this FS in CL.

Mazda rx7 first gen bumper

 

That's a Mariah Motor Sports bumper. Not sure if it's Mode 1 (Wide Body) or Mode 4. The Mode 4 sells new for $500.

 

This evening was better. After picking up the brake piston tool from Autozone, I got the caliper back on without any further drama. Took her out for a 1/2 hour drive. I pulled the not-yet-battened down roll bar out and put my race seats back in prep for auto-x on Sunday. My extended lugs may arrive tomorrow. If so, I'll put them on tomorrow night. Nothing like waiting until the last minute!

Also tried the SSRs on the rear. I had trouble with one rear holding air. We'll see how she holds up in the morning.

fm

 

Welcome back Austin. Now let's see a new build thread so we can see what your plans are for this one.

 

Replaced driver side door card with T3 door card, passenger side tomorrow.

 

Finished refurbishing my strut tower bar and charcoal canister.

 

Put the Hoosiers on her and took her out for a shakedown run. Put air in the tires and brought her home. Now the garage smells like hot tire.

fm

 

 

Chopped my TII tranny (4 1/8") so I can retrofit my 20b into my FB. I cut the dust tube in the middle so to preserve the end covers and used a tig to weld it back together. Then measured the inner rod, drilled pressed the new hole, then choped the excess with a chop saw. Pretty simple process! Here's a pic of the end product!

 

Nice Peejay. My butt hurts just watching the beating you all are taking in the car.

Today was the last auto-x event of the season in Marina. I ran her with American Auto-X, which sets up courses that favor big hp cars. Think wide courses, long straights. A stock 12A wouldn't have a chance. I was easily the lowest power car out there, probably by at least 20bhp, with a majority of the runners sporting 300+bhp cars. No matter. I still managed a respectable 45.9 (down from a 49.2 on my first run).

This is the first time running with slicks...what a difference. The car really let me push it without getting squirrely. Each run got 1 to 1.5 secs faster. The car just wanted to give more. I think with a couple more runs I could have done low 40s. Most "fast" cars were doing 38-42 secs, with a few really fast cars doing low-mid 30s. Braking was a dream...it's so nice to use the brakes and have them actually slow the car down rather than lock the brakes and flat spot the tires. THIS is what it's supposed to be like.

I can only imagine what it'll be like with a 13B-pp in it. I should have an out-of-car vid soon, but until then, some beauty shots at the event.

fm

 

Its nice to have your work pay off! Very nice. Its really coming together.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/rotary-MAZDA-RX7-SAVANNA-IMSA-79-AOSHIMA-1-24-MODELKIT-/131311645672?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item1e92c8b3e8

 

Thanks NCross!

As promised, vid. This is my second to fastest run of the day (46.94...my fastest was a 45.9).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYud...ature=youtu.be

 

Removed the trim as the first step to new paint and windshield glass. Hope to have it done in 2 weeks. Time permitting.

 

That's dirt! I know your car isn't familiar with it but it's this sandy, dirty dusty substance that is underneath your garage floor Just busting your chops man - both of those battery cables need to be redone really badly. May end up retrofitting the battery to the storage bin behind my seat to take the weight away from that front corner.

I'll start a build thread soon, don't you worry! This one will be much more of a stock restore with some of my personal flares mixed in. I want it to remain mostly original because it has pretty low mileage and is in decent enough shape. I'm actually considering keeping this one around in an auto for the soon-to-be-wife to drive but I'm not sure if she actually would or not. It'll get manual swapped before next spring along with some other restoration aspects. I'll see how long this "staying close to stock" idea lasts...

I know I've told you this before but I'm a child of the dirt as well and love watching your videos! They're so fun to watch because I grew up riding dirt bikes and four wheelers all summer between grades with my buddies so I like rally races. I always thought it would be a blast to rally a 7, I ripped mine down a few gravel roads and loved it.

Good job and keep it up!

Awesome time man! Love the looks of the car as well - it's coming along extremely well. Looks a lot like the newer line of HotWheels mixed with the old IMSA style and a dash of toned-down Group C flare all rolled into one car. Great taste and awesome attention to detail, I look forward to the progression of the build!

I haven't done much with the FB yet. Did some cleaning and started a parts list, that's about the extent of it. Going to hopefully try to fire it up this weekend just to see if she'll run. I was told the fuel pump is bad so that's the first thing to get tested then it's on from there.

 

Did you insulate the inside half before bolting it down? Im wondering if they increase interior road noise just being aluminum. I like the look of them with the straps. Too bad theres not a carbon fiber option.

 

I just put them on, cars pretty loud for road noise already so wasn't to much of a concern.

They attach via self-drilling screws that are provided, so you will be adding new holes to the door when installing them. The door lock inserts are a very tight fit, took a little bit of filing to get them to squeeze in, which is good, because they aren't going to jiggle around.

Basically I was taking old door cards that the previous owner painted(and didn't do a great job prepping), and the attachment points were broken. Eventually need to work on doing the center console, radio surround busted, and gauges just kinda hanging around in there.

 

Drove mine to work today, well I do everyday lol, notice my odometers bout to turn 100k, motor still has 87k on it though, found it in a mint 84 gs

Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app

 

Gonna do the traditional "one mile push" to roll it over? Or was that just a thing where/when I grew up?

 

No, but since you brought that up (a good point, I mean), I think ill take it to the drag strip and see what she will do.
Ive never gone down a dragstrip before, either as driver or passenger. As she rolls over 100k

Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app

 

Removed the bumpers, as the last step before sanding. Weather permitting, I'll have her to paint man next week.

 

I spent some time doing measurements and a fit check with the epsilons. Good thing I did, too - - these wheels need the "short" lug bolts, and my SA has the long ones due to the waffles.

Still not 100% convinced that 205/50-13's will fit on a stock suspension with those wheels; 205/60-13's leave less than a quarter inch between the tire 'bulge' and the spring seat at the bottom of travel.

The backset on the wheels is very similar; flange to inner bead distance on the stock wheel is 108mm on the waffles, and 111mm on the Epsilons. But with the wheel diameter being larger, the 'bulge' moves outward, even though it will be less on a 50 than on a 60.