see info on this thread

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=202767

This is the placement of the water bottle. I was trying to be creative. 1.5 gallons, not bad. Its a BLITZ oil container with a modified cap.
fits perfect in the spare tire well.




Here is where I mounted the pump: I like it here because its nice and clean install.




Pressure switch and relay: You have to look to the left and near the STB you will see the pressure switch, its gold. I T'd the manifold boost pressure into that. Behind that you will see the red wires, thats the relay and the harness. The harness goes in my firewall, under the dash and connects to the 12V and the ignition to to my stereo harness and then goes to the pump.




Here is the master switch and led light. The LED light will light up when the system is activated at 8 psi. IF YOU INSTALL WI YOU NEED THIS FEATURE. if it ever gets a bad ground your WI can run without you knowing and you can mess up your car.




Here is the injector and selenoid:

 

Very nicely done. Looks real professional from the pics too. You should start selling kits, and do up some nice instructions and everything.

One question though, as far as I know, water isn't compressible, and it's really bad to get it inside your engine. What am I missing that makes it ok to inject water into your engine?

 

I was thinking the same thing. oh your uim looks good black

 

thanks fedup, 911

Im no expert but I do know that there is a very fine nozzel that lightly mists the water into the intake tract. Its so fine that it evaporates immediately and soaks up the heat at the same time. So the air going into your engine is more cold.

BTW...I used ceramic coated paint I bought at pepboys for my manifold, costa about 5 bucks. Did it 6 months ago, didn't come off

 

Go check out the WI thread in the 3rd gen archives. It will answer that question, as well as many you haven't thought of yet

 

Will do cap'n

 

Lol....are you guys still going to call me that when I'm a civilian ?

 

Nice job.

 

Wow that looks really good. I want I want!

Rich, what's your thoughts on a setup like this?

 

Sure, you're defending the country, it's the least we can do.

 

I've been planning on running a similar setup since before I deployed, which was many moons ago

I think it's a great idea, and something that I think you should have installed on your FD along with your new race-ported motor

 

thought you were supposed to WI before your intercooler...that was the whole point...it works best with an intercooler

 

well if he wait till after the intercooler the air passes thru and is then cooled, by hiting it right before it enters teh throttle body I would think it would cool charge temps more. I could be wrong, but the common goal would be to lower intake temps as much as possible. I would imagine the best way to figure out which is more effecient is to hook up a temp probe and try it both ways.

 

Does intake temps of 66 F on an 80 F day cool enough for you? I dont think I want it any cooler than that, LOL.

I think the idea is that the IC compresses the air, makes it more dense and the water injection cools it even more.

 

I think there are a few misconceptions here. While WI does help lower the charge air temp, its main benefit is when it enters the combustion chamber, flash evaporates, and, in doing so, absorbs a good amount of heat -thereby improving combustion stability. Now you can run more boost (more power), leaner AF ratios (more power), or just use it as a safety blanket...or both.

Mounting position has been argued many times. Some say pre intercooler is a waste of a good intercooler's efficiency, some also say the water droplets will condense more as the temp drops going through the intercooler. Others say pre turbo is the way! My take is, if the water makes it to the combustion chamber when it supposed to, you're good to go

 

yea keep in mind that in normal driving your intake temps are not going to drop. I was just boosting like crazy on the highway to see if it had any effect. I kept hitting the throttle. I think im gonna look for some sort of RPM switch so it only activates above 4K rpm. any ideas?

 

Very impressive work you've presented here Zero. I may end up doing this in the future as well (Though I wouldn't place the water where my spare is...you never know). Great job anyway.

 

Can't wait to see this done to a stock Fd. I would love to see the power increases with dyno info. I guess this is something else I'll have to do when I start my 20b swap


Zero how often do you re-fill your tank?

 

well, since I just did this mod I cant say for sure. But they say 2 QT's last 1 tank, so with that logic I have 6 QT's, I would estimate if I used it full time every 3 tanks. But I will only have it on during hot days and WOT runs/track days. So I expect to get a month or more of Daily driving on this tank. If its not enough, BLITZ makes an 11 QT tank. Also, there are companys that sell 2 gallon -10 gallon cells, but thats over kill for me.

 

One question I asked before that wasn't addressed, how do you keep the water cool when it's just riding around in your spare tire well? I'd imagine it would get hot in the summer which would defeat the purpose wouldn't it?

 

Kyle, 2 points.

1) The trunk well is without a doubt the coolest part of the car.

2) even if its hot it will evaporate when it gets injected into the intake and cool the intake charge. Remember, most guys use the stock winshield washer tank thats in the engine bay.

Hell, I can easily put ice in it for the track, but thats not necessary, IMHO.

 

Getting all the parts is the biggest PIA of this process, for real. Nobody makes a good economical kit. The spearco kit is cheap (like 200+) but has poor quality pump and nozzels.

 

It really doesn't need to be cold -so long as its not boiling I guess The purpose isn't really to cool the intake charge, though its an extra benefit. The real purpose it to take advantage of the excellent heat absorption properties of water during the actual combustion process.

 

I updated the pics, the changes are the water bottle, It is now 3 gallons!!! and it fits perfectly in the spare tire bin. I also bought a fuel filter to keep particles from getting in the engine bay. My dash panel now has an amber "armed" LED and a green "active" LED. That way I know the system is activated and when its running. If the light doesnt turn on when I hit 8 lbs boost I have a problem. I also have a temporary strap to hold the bottle down. its a bungi cord that works perfect. Holds it in tight. I plan to use some aluminum or steel straps to hold it in place later.

 

really nice setup, but i have a question though. Couldn't you just use one of the washer fluid nozels and tap it into the throttle body. I mean it's a lot easier just to do that rather to build everything from scratch. Plus you already have the tank, pump and rest of the stuff, all you really need is that relay?

Just a thought