Well, haha here is the deal. I only had 6 port na engines available on my last motor swap, so I did a high compression 6 port turbo engine. Did all the port matching and turbo front cover, and so on. The engine was stock, was never opened, and had ~120,000 miles on it when I first installed it. Over the last 5 or 6 months I most likely put another 15-20,000 miles on it, so around 140k when it blew. It had 60 60 60, 60 60 60 compression all day, till one day after a drift event I blew my water pump on the way home. Was the weirdest thing ever, I blew my water pump, and my idle was all messed up. I did a compression check and my compression was 60 60 10, 60 60 60. So I basically blew a side seal. O.o The side seal would only fail when the engine was warm, so people think because I kept the NA oil pump, it wasn't flowing enough at higher rpm, causing my side seal spring to fatigue.

I actually drove it all the way home from college ( 3 hours ) where the engine started getting warm and started missing randomly at lower rpm. I let the car cool, and it was fine, so I had the idea that the injectors were sticking on long trips, when the injectors "over heated". I was on my way from home to a friends house an hour away to pick up another housing to build my DD NA, when it started to miss while I was in boost. Tick tick, ziiiinnnnggg, she was done. I limped it back home (after getting the housing) on the one rotor, and took the engine out while it was still warm. (haha felt like open heart surgery)

It completely blew the front rotor ( 0 0 0 compression), but I have not been able to look at the front rotor/housing cause I can’t get the front main bolt off!! haha I tried for hours, heating it up, every trick in the book, nothing! But I got the good rear rotor and housing out. Actually surprisingly the rear rotor had a cracked apex seal haha, but it was perfectly fine, it was a really clean break right in the middle. My guess is I have been driving on it like that since I got it.

I think my turbo is good still haha. It would still boost on the 1 rotor the whole trip home to help me over the hills. This is the second time I have thrown apex seals past it, (3 rotors worth of apex seals total) and its still ticking!

On a side note, haha, on my long drive home on the 1 rotor I started to think.... If the front rotor had no compression, why didn't the exhaust pressure go back into the front rotor, and how did I still make boost when it should have just acted like a huge vac leak (the front rotor). Maybe the exhaust pressure was the reason it didn't act like a huge exhaust leak I donno. Just kind of an interesting thought.

Right after it blew I had about 20000 things going through my head, build up plans, build another 6 port engine, but get rid of the diffusers, and run t2 primary ports... but after I had a night to sleep on it, I think I will repair my NA first, with an NA engine, and then do a REAL quality turbo engine (for the BNR stage x) I still don’t know what stage to get! haha

Anyways, to recap (sorry I know this got super long) it had hella miles, it was a NA-T, and I don't have any proof to show that it was the injector, but in the past (last summer), I thought I blew a rotor, when it was just my injector stuck open after it got really hot. This time I'm just guessing that it got stuck closed while I was in boost, but the secondary didn't so it just went super lean getting 1/2 the fuel.

I am sad, but also semi used to it. I have went through quite a few engines, but they have all been high mileage used engine. My next engine (both the NA DD, and the real s5 turbo) I am going to build myself. It will be the first engine I will have installed that will (hopefully) put out more than 60 compression.

Anyways, that's the story.

Technically, now that my turbo car is down, I will be able to send my turbo off to brian once I choose what stage to get.

Thanks for listening.
Laters
~Tweak

 

i got my boost controller in and installed, i started messing around with it yesterday at 10psi. ill probably tune this weekend, then try to get dyno time next week sometime *if all goes well heheh

 

Ok folks. I just ordered a set of 1680cc injectors from Marren. Should be recieving them sometime next week. Then I am tenatively scheduled for a tune session with Chris for next Saturday. New numbers to follow, and new track times, with the MT ET's.

 

i was having problems yesterday making more than 10 psi.. turns out my wastegate flap was being pushed open by exhaust backpressure, b/c the stock wg spring is too soft. I had to add a couple springs to the wg actuator, and now base boost is 9 psi (vs 5 psi before).

but today I finally turned it up to about 13psi, and man its awesome. 1st gear will roast the tires.. 2nd gear just barely keeps traction. but still, when i was doing pulls in 3rd to tune, it was the first time i ever got really pushed back into the seat at those speeds! very fun!!

 

I might be having the same prob with the spring being to soft. I had to turn the boost increas by 40% on the Greddy 2 Boost controler just to get it from 5-6 to 8-10 psi. But then again I can adjust the actuator arm to solve this prob.

 

so at 13 psi does the afm affect anything like restrict or how does that work?
if you max out the afm what will happen so i can start to look for that in my dataloging?
also are you still running the stage 3?

off topic... i might be going with a gt35r but...its has the .82 t3 hot side and .70 comp. housing. also surge protection.

comments or opinions about this turbo would be great from all

noted that im seeking 400 rwhp and no more than 425 rwhp/ no less than 375 rwhp

thanks

 

im running stage 3. I havent had any problems with the AFM so far, but iim having problems looking at teh logs offline. so i havent really looked at my logs closely. I do know my injectors are almost maxed.. im getting p/w of 7ms near redline which is like 80% d/c, on 750cc/1000cc injectors, afr around 11.5. seems like that is exessive amount of fuel for that afr

my next dyno and tune is scheduled for march 10th

 

werd cant wait to see the results?

 

heres a log i made with boost controller set for 13psi, 4th gear.. 10psi by ~3100 rpm, then my clutch let go heheh. it was making stock boost (6psi) at 2700 rpm

 

i wonder when my turbo will get here....
cant wait to put it in.

 

Hi guys, here's my dyno sheets! I'm happy with how the car goes, it feels fast but not scary. I want to join the 300rwhp club, please help me find another 28hp

Here's the specs to my car: 3" dump pipe, into 2.5" twin, racing beat rear mufflers and high flow cat, Walbro pump, 1600cc secondary injectors, Sard fuel reg, Microtech LT8 ECU, ARC top mount intercooler, manual boost controller, BNR stage 3 turbo. The block is stock with good comp.

The car is making good boost after a few issues, I can't work out why you guys are making 300rwhp with ease on much lower boost levels. Is my tune too conservative? I don't understand A/F ratios.

Special thanks to Bryan, he is truly a great guy to deal with.

Any ideas guys? I need just a bit more power without rebuilding the engine as it's only 19000 miles old. Thanks

 

what boost are you set at?

nevermind i checked the pics.. that doesnt seem right if your pressure is that strong.. could be that your fuel curve is too conservative.. have you pulled back at all with the large secondaries or no?

 

You need to find out why your boost is dropping off on the top end.

The easiest thing would be to pull the cat and see how the boost reacts. I suspect exhaust backpressure from the cat is decreasing the pressure differential between the motor and exhaust sides of the turbo and thus there is less energy available to drive the compressor on the top end.

AFRs look fine to me.

 

Hey thanks for the replies guys, sonick117x I'm not sure what you mean by backing off the larger secondaries.

The car was dynoed with and without the cat, the power difference and the way the boost reacted was minimal. She only makes another 3hp without the cat. It must be a lazy motor although the comp is excellent. I'm afraid of hurting the motor with so much boost. Any other ideas? Could my top mount ARC be the problem? or the standard Mazda air filter I'm using?

 

Stand alone ECU and stock air filter and duct? Really?

Yeah, get a short 3" alum tube bent 45 deg to a big cone filter and it will do wonders for the top end.

 

I suppose I've done things a little backwards. The pod is on my to do list. My tuner told me today a FMIC could make another 30-40hp. He could advance the timing a little and go a little harder on the tune.

I'll be very happy once / if the car makes 300rwhp.

Anyone here selling a second hand Greddy FMIC kit?

 

I've hit the same wall as you htkingswood. I've got a pfc, bnr stage 3, electronic boost control, 3 inch turbo back, supra pump rewired, tid w k&n filter, 1680/720 injectors, fuel reg, all emissions off, blah blah blah, and got stopped at 250rwhp on a humid 90 degree day. Two main problems though, I have a fairly weak engine, and it was the stock top mount that really restricted me. I was stopped at 11 psi with hot air that probably flowed like ****. However, I'm thinking I can free up at least 30hp when i get a fmic (working on getting an ARC from japan right now). It would be great if I got over that 300rwhp too though.

 

i just meant you may be running rich, among a few other things mentioned like your top mount and/or tid holding you back? it is impressive how your numbers continue to grow even as your boost trickles down.. cant wait to see your results when this bug is worked out

 

I would say your IC is holding you back. probably a combination of the small 2" diameter and hotter temps. If you have stock 2" intake piping, what good does 3" exhaust get you? sure you may have better spool, but it will cut your power output a good bit

 

hmmm, now I am no expert but I have read quite a bit. I am just going to throw this out there. I think your lower than expected power was caused by a combination of issues.

1. stock intercooler = interheater
2. overpowering the stock wastegate spring causing the boost to slowly fall off.
3. not the best tuning because of the hot intake air.

Also I might be nit picking here, but the BNR website says that the stage three is "good for up to 15-16 psi of boost." I would think that the "up to" would mean that's about the end of its efficient boost, where it begins to blow some serious hot air. On you first graph it shows that you were boosting above 16 psi from about 75 mph to 110. Along with the bad interheater, I couldn't imagine any cool dense air entering your engine.

That is just a semi educated guess from the tweak. I really hope you change the intercooler and get re-dynoed. I would really like to see the results.

Edit : opps didnt mean to basically just repeat what gxl80rx7 said. Sorry.

 

Ok guys, I'm heading off to Dallas tonight at about 3am. There has been some snow in Dallas lately and its pouring rain here in Houston. I'm also riding alone on this trip.

I got the 1680's installed yesterday and I'm hoping for some reliable numbers. I'd love to go upwards of 375, but I just saw a j-spec motor break the rear iron at ~360hp. My motor isn't pinned so I'm kinda worried, but I'll be very happy with 351hp.

Wish me luck!!!

 

GOOD LUCK!! bring it back on its own power!

BTW, is yours s4 or s5?

 

Hey limbar85, I feel you frustation. We have very similar set ups, I guess you would be making similar power to me with 15+ PSI. My top mount is an ARC so I guess it flows a little more power than a stock one but overall it still gets very hot and flows nothing like a FMIC. I'd be keen to know how you go with the ARC out of Japan.


Yeah I think my tuner got a little nervous because my intercooler was getting so hot during tuning, he may have tuned it a little rich to be safe, he did say he could go harder if the intake temps were under control

Sounds funny when someone else tells you, I listened to the wrong people, I was told my top mount would just fine so I left it. I'm shopping for one now, even thinking about a W2A set up. glx90rx7 I hear you, thanks

Yes I agree, it's a few things together causing issues for me. I can't control the boost spike at the moment. Funny thing is I had the opposite issue with my car not wanting to make boost. I recently fitted a high boost actuator, the spring pressure is 14.8psi but it still trickles at high RPM.

Guys thanks so much for your imput, I'll let you all know when my FMIC or W2A is fitted.

 

I have a suggestion. THis is something that happened to my brother at an evo dyno meet.

My brothers evo8 put down 307 to the wheels. His buddy with the evo 9 made 339 to the wheels.

They raced several times. My brother won by atleast a full car evry time.


I say. go race a few 320hp cars see where your at. 1/4 mile mph doesnt lie neither.

 

Well hmm.., I don't completely agree with that. Racing can have a few too many variables to be used as a serious benchmark. Someone that dynoed 300 could beat someone with 330 in many ways. The weight of the car, boost hitting sooner/better throttle response, flatter or sooner power compared to peaky, and so on. I don't see any reason to not go race and do a 1/4 mile, but I am just saying personally to me it is not that accurate. Worth a shot though.

P.S. Just making sure you know that is not an attack on you junito1. I know some people get really mad on the forums when someone expresses their opinion on a subject.
P.S. What bov do you use junito1?