Update:

Raised the boost slightly and took the car on a 400 mile trip with no issues. Even fully heat soaked the car performed great and the numbers all looked as expected. I also now have the efan controlled through the ecu (no longer using the basic probe in the radiator). I can now actually keep a tight temperature range which is nice.

Hopefully things keep going smooth...about 8 or 9k miles on the motor now

 

Update:

I have taken the car now to 16.5psi max with my newly installed boost controller! It is ziptied in case the screws from the rear back out don't worry not fully ghetto mounted. I did have to add a plastic spacer to avoid heat travel through the thermostat mount but other than that it's worked great. I have it plugged into an available dpo on the haltech harness and it worked no problem.




What didn't work without a problem was the oil leak I had at the oil cooler. I took out the thermostat as I had a small slow leak from the area there. Come to find out, after changing the crush washer a few times and realizing it was still leaking, the landing was cracked (apparently common with fc oil coolers).

I have decided to remove the thermostat, plug the bypass hole, and have a cap welded over the thermostat bung.




I am now waiting on some 10an hose to redo some old oil lines and then will be back on the road and ready for a hot summer. My oil cooler has its own thermostatic fan that I can use to control the temps. My only concern is startup oil pressure but we will see. At least no concern of a failing bypass valve and cooked oil.

 

a good remote bypass (Improved Racing brand etc.) is much better, better still with an oil filter mount having much easier access and then get rid of all that junk on the rear iron pedestal.
.

 

Update:

Car is running great. I have noticed that since removing the oil cooler bypass my thermostatic fans actually cycle. Before the car would get up to temp and then the fans would just just stay running 24/7. Now without making any changes to the temp controller it cycles indicating to me that the oil wasn't all actually going through the cooler before.... very happy now with the modification.

 

Teamrx8. I can run a thermostat for the oil cooler fairly easily be interrupting the 10 an lines going too and from the cooler. I do not see any reason to do so at this time but I have my eye on the one listed on the Mazdatrix website..

 

People underestimate the OE type leak-bypassing. A good remote type is much less prone to this issue, provides better temp range selection options, and then also doesn’t send cold oil at full volume through the entire cooler line loop, but instead bypasses the majority of volume back to the engine for quicker warmup at lower engine loading.





a few more bucks and you can get a better one

https://www.improvedracing.com/high-...hermostat.html
.

 

Update:
Had a bit of a scare this evening. Drove the car earlier today and I noticed it ran oddly smooth in the decel ranges. Then when I let it sit at home for a while and hot started it it was only running on the front rotor. Crapola...

Pulled plugs and checked comp and it was fine! 90 PSI in the rear and 108 in the front (hurt the rear about 6k miles ago figuring out the new trigger). I am glad to see the rear has not dropped in compression over this period of time. Even with the recent increase in boost. Plugs have about 6k miles aka last time I checked comp. Probably will be changing them every 3-4 oil changes(1000mi intervals) vs every 6-8.


The more annealed ground strap plug (top) is the rear rotor.

After changing out to a fresh set of ngk 5501s the car is back to normal. 15.5 PSI has been feeling great, I now can tell a noticeable difference in the w/m tank level after a spirited drive and I think my clutch is going to need an upgrade soon.

Hopefully she keeps on chugging

 

Update:

Car has been running well. I have done some heavy extended load sessions and everything is running quite well with no disparities in the compression/ fueling requirements & behavior. The starter brushes seem to have given up the ghost though after 7 or so years so I swapped it out for another remanufactured bosch 2.0 kw starter and back to normal.

Brakes during the heavy extended load became an issue. The hawk hps pads (Stoptech slotted only rotors, dot 5.1 fluid) got too hot and the pedal became soft. I do realize the hps is not a higher temp rated pad and will be looking at the hp+ and pads in that tier.

Video if anyone wants to hear some engine noise:

 

i had issues with denso s31a also, at first i thought it was a bad injector, because it was running on one rotor and the plugs were relatively new. swapped back to ngk bur9 and ran fine. the denso are out of stock everywhere except ebay and amazon, i wonder if they were chinesium

 

Update:

Took the car out this morning for a test in the heat. Ambient temps at the time of testing are 94 degrees F. Little bit toasty to be rolling around in the rx7, but none the less here is a small screen recording of the haltech software. Thought this would be an interesting change. Maybe in the future I can overlay the haltech information onto a regular video.

 

I'm currently running Denso Iridium 11s all around. Does Denso have an 11 surface discharge plug to match?

 

Ptrhahn, interesting thank you for the information on your plugs. I see on your profile your car has a streetport w/ 8374 @20psi. Is that on 93 or on e85? I have been holding off on any more boost till I can go for a proper dyno but have been having a hard time finding a place in Northern Virginia that will just rent me dyno time. Interested in where you got your FD tuned.

To answer your original question, no I do not know of any Denso surface gap 11s but if someone else does feel free to chime in.

 

Hey Michael, it runs on pump gas but with water injection at higher boost. It was tuned by IRP. I had checked out local shops for remote tuning at one point, I'll PM you my notes.

 

Update:

Car has been running smooth. Smooth enough for me to schedule a dyno rental! Next week on Friday July 12th ill be going to revtechperformance in Sterling VA. Maintenance items I will be doing beforehand are the following:
1. o2 Sensor (LSU 4.9)
2. Plugs (BUR9EQ for Trailing and NGK 5501 For Leading) Also bringing a set of 10.5 heat range NGK race iridium plugs for leading if it makes over 450whp
3.Fuel Filter
4. Oil Change

I plan to have 3 boost settings that I will measure power at @ 10, 16, and 20 PSI. Right now the car runs 16 happily so we will see if 20 gives any questions. Not sure what the dyno model is but I will be sure to note it while I am there. Any other recommendations would be great I have never rented a dyno before.

 

If the dyno is a Dynojet; ask for the run files. You can download Winpep software to view the files in different configurations at home.

Hopefully the dyno has a wideband.

 

don't make the mistake of chasing power numbers. stick to what you been doing on the road and whatever it makes it makes. If you chase the numbers you will probably hurt the engine.

 

According to RevTech's website they use a
Mustang AWD-150 dyno. You may want to call Mustang to see if you can retrieve files and if they have any home software.

https://www.mustangdyne.com/products...rs/md-awd-150/


I usually have tunes set up before, so I can swap them out during the dyno session.

be sure to have a big fan in front of the inter cooler and radiator during the session. I had a dyno operator forget to do this and I didn't notice for a couple of runs, my IATs went through the roof.

your wide band reading could be different than the dyno's. On a NA vehicle that may be due to the airflow of a fan vs driving 100mph down a road.

I would want SAE corrected readings and plotting using rpm not mph

 

"SAE corrected readings"

yes

 

Books,

Thank you for the detailed response. I will be reaching out to Mustang and will update you here if I am able to get their software.

Noted on the fan.

I will be using my o2 as the final say, it has been working no problem for me over the past year but will be sure to take the tailpipe o2 with a grain of salt.

SAE corrected with RPM noted as well

 

Update: Got the o2 swapped out and also did the fuel filter. Plugs got delivered and now we wait and keep doing the normal drives. Plan is to swap out plugs in parking lot. 9s in trailing as normal with 10s in leading. 10.5 is the backup set if it makes good power.

 

Trailings should be the colder of the two, and I'd be running colder than 9s given what you've talked about in this thread.

 

Personally, I prefer starting with the coldest plugs and then moving hotter after reviewing. IMO starting hot is approaching the answer from the wrong direction.

 

Why should the trailing's be colder? This is opposite of OEM

 

Factory trailing plugs are 2 full ranges colder than the leading

 

I'm having quite the laugh. How have I not realized in 10 years of ownership that the Leads were 7s and Trails were 9 I have always thought it was 9s on bottom and 7s on top. In years past I have just ran 9s all around which probably saved me to a certain extent.

I think I will do the 10.5 in the trailing and the 10 in the leading.... cant believe I missed that for so many years.