LOL. "Woahhh Mikey!".

 

Update:

Took the rx7 out in the heat earlier this week and things help up okay. Temps on the coolant held with no issues but I ran into an odd issue. While driving with the car properly heat soaked, the ecu fuse popped while accelerating.

This was odd but I replaced the fuse and continued on. I then tried to accelerate with some spirit again after about 30 minutes of driving and the same thing happend.

Having never had this issue before in the 2+ years this setup has been together I immediately called haltech, their support staff indicated that it may be a grounding issue.

After doing some research on the various grounding methods (star point on block is what I found to be the reccomendation) I believe my problem is because my ecu is grounded to the battery directly and not the engine block. While I am not confident that this is the issue, I dont think it will hurt to try.

Has anyone else experienced this before? I will be testing again over the coming days to see if the temperature or wiring is cause for the issue.

 

Small update:

I went and got some more 10amp fuses and took the car out on this cool evening. After letting it warm up on my usual 4-5 mile drive I then gave it the beans and it had no issues, no fuse popping...this leads me to believe it was a heat related issue. Anyone experinced something like this before?

 

I don't think you're supposed to ground straight to the battery?

 

The haltech comes with Littlefuse branded fuses. Found some interesting info from them attached to this post. Temperature can reasonably affect max amperage as I had thought

 

Great thread to read and documentation! How is that car running? How are your compression numbers now?

 

Afternoon J,

Thank you for the feedback. The car is running great
That video was taken 2-3 weeks ago. I haven't compression tested the motor in almost a year now but do need to do plugs soon. I will check it when doing plugs.

I did randomly the other day have the 10amp fuse pop again while giving it the beans. This time it happened while I was letting off the throttle. I will be doing some ground ohm checking to make sure all is proper.

Other wise, oil changes every 1k miles and 2.5 oz of premix per gal keeps things happy.

 

As I am reading through this thread I do want to provide an update to a conversation several of us had a while back. We had been discussing what could have caused the turbo failure and high pressure to the turbo was mentioned as a possible source of the problem. I can say with confidence that it was NOT the problem as I have only ran my replacement borgwarner s364.5 with no OPR and it is doing just fine 12+ months later (with higher boost pressures too).

 

Update:
I have not had any issues with the electronics since my last string of posts. Odd but will continue on as is and see what triggers it.

A few months back I noticed the inner boot on one of my axles had ripped. I took off the boot, removed the circlip, and cleaned/replaced the grease in the axle and reassembled it. I did not post about it because its not anything particularly special.

I took the car to another track event this past weekend and on the 3rd session I had a very very bad shudder through the car when torque was applied. I immediately pulled off and noticed that my boot had twisted. This could only mean that the assembly was spinning inside of the reciver cup.



After removing the axle, I either did not put the circlip in properly, or it needed to be replaced as the axle and bearing assembly pulled right out of the outer cup with the clip being badly bent and outer cup also being damaged beyond use.





It looks like the axle pulled out and spun a few times which was the terrible shudder I felt.

Thankfully GSP makes a turbo2 halfshaft. Delivered to the door it was 96$ from rock auto and the axle shaft diamater matches my existing s4 t2 axles.

Everything fit and bolted up no issues, length of the halfshafts are the same also.