well the coldest is typically 11 or 11.5, so it’d be interesting to see how this plays out against the electrodeless side gap plugs that some people are fussing over in only a 10 heat range, erroneously so in my typical vocal yet idiotic opinion, and all those pro race engine builders with 40 - 50 years experience …

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post12552286

I pretty much have a near-lifetime supply, but for anyone else in need (note Qty 4 = $11.25 each):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26671038327...kAAOSwbhNl61TU
.

 

Update:
Successful dyno session. Car made 401 whp peak and 363 tq. @20 psi dropping to 19 (need to give some extra duty over 6500). This is on a mustang dyno and the operator informed me it may be slightly lower than actual due to having to strap the car down so hard (small tires). Please find the log file attached and the CSV from the dyno. It is still quite rich in the high boost area (9.6 afr/.67-.68 lamda) and I will be working on leaning it out over the coming street drives.

No issues came up while we were on the dyno, peak egts were monitored manually and did not exceed 1500 degrees. Revtech did a great job with the fans:




Now I can focus on making the car look half decent now that it runs well and makes some ok power.

 

Find attached the PDF of the outputs overlayed from the first pull. Kind of messy but was the output provided

 

After reviewing the logs it looks like the fuel pressure regulator is not functioning on a 1:1 ratio. I don't think its a fuel flow issue as it has an odd rising ratio even in lower boost.

Good reason to have a fuel pressure sensor compensates and lets me know there's a problem

 

Here's a quick video of one of the later pulls. Phone mic quality is not very good

 

Power sounds right for a Non Dynojet dyno. Good work
For that boost level I would not be trimming back the afr. Keep your EGT at 1500 and it will live for a long time to come.

 

I'd agree, I shoot for ~10:1 then trim to EGTs after that. ~9.5:1 is definitely acceptable.

 

I took the CSV from the dyno tech and made a nicer looking graph without the extra lines. The dyno tech did not connect the dyno to the ECU/Car for some reason so the rpm is estimated/incorrect :/



I specifically asked for data with 0 smoothing

 

Is this a normal amount of lumpiness?

 

The early part of the graph oscillates due to the dyno loading and unloading the car. The upper range seems fairly normal with 0 smoothing but the dips should be investigated. RPM just doesn't match so its hard to understand where exactly in the log I should be looking

 

Try and get yourself on a Mainline or Dyno dynamics hub dyno.

Get a much better view of what is happening and a more realistic picture of what's happening on the road. Dynojet is just trash

 

This wasn't a Dynojet, and Mustangs are load bearing. There's no reason why good information can't be found on this other than the tech didn't know how to/didn't want to change up the load strategy for something with such little stroke.

 

Never used a mustang dyno but the fact that theres so much oscillation at the beginning of the run makes me think the PID on the dyno isn't good either.

 

Again, that oscillation is due to improper use of the tool, not that a Mustang may be stone aged such as an older Dynojet. I can make my Dynapacks do the same if I ham-fist the load setup.

 

Update:

Car has been running great at 20PSI. The power is tons of fun and its amazing how much faster it feels.

I dont like the sound of the electronic boost solenoid though its pulsing makes the exhaust sound odd. May look into the turbosmart dual stage boost controller.

Other thing I have noticed is that after very hard runs it sounds like one of the wastegates sticks slightly open. The exhaust sound changes and I can hear the individual pulses from one of the rotors. What's odd is once I pull off from a light I hear it close again fully with ~15% throttle. Do I need to rebuild my WG after ~12k miles?

-Mike

 

what frequency are you using for the solenoid

 

How have you got them plumbed and where is your reference from? Sounds like you are getting vacuum on the top port pulling it open.

 

33hz

 

I have it currently plumbed right into the compressor housing

 

At 33hz you usually can't hear the wastegate opening and closing under boost. Interesting that it does.

 

Might be worth checking you don't have a broken spring.

 

Update:

Car still rips like a dream. I have it tuned to about 22 PSI now still on pump 93 + 500cc WM.

I recently got into the whole solid state relay deal. I have one now for my flexalite efan as well as my DW 400 fuel pump. No more worries about fuel heating and what's nice with the fan is you can ramp the speed in slowly allowing for smooth/uninterrupted idle and constant engine bay/oil cooler airflow (cant be bad).

Im using 2 of the haltech 100amp SSRs.

At idle I keep the fuel pump at 20% duty slowly ramping to 100% at 8psi. My goal with this is to reduce fuel heating while street crusing.
The efan stays at 25% constant until it starts to warm up where it slowly ramps up to 60% at 185. Then from 185 to 200 there is a linear fan curve to 100%.

If anyone has questions about frequencies or duty cycles feel free to let me know.

 

Update:

I hope everyone has been having a good winter! The weather is warming up and I was able to take the 7 to a GOT (Get on Track) event at summit motorsports park in West Virginia.

The event was so much fun, I have never taken the rx7 on track even though I have spent so much time modifying it for such purposes. Definitely would reccomend this event to anyone who wants to beat the **** out of their car with no concerns for the law.

Thankfully the modifications were right on the money, coolant temps stayed below 180 the entire session and intake temps peaked at 48° F (God bless W/M injection). Oil temps and pressures held with no issues and egts peaked around 1480-1500° F. I ran 18 psi throughout the day as I was anxious about things holding up.

After the event there was no change in idle or idle egts (compression still happy) and I drove it an hour home.

Here is a snippet of video from the passenger seat, please excuse the lack of camera control. Side note I also need bigger wheels, the 225s dont cut it even with the proxy r1r tires.

 

tracking a nearly 400 whp FC with 225s is rather ballsy hahaha

 

It was a ton of fun, definitely have to keep the throttle control in check on the corners or you'll be at a drift event not a track event