Gucci,

I did run it with full pressure in the beginning (FD OPR in rear iron), would that have caused damage to it?

-Mike

 

Yup. That's when the damage would have occurred.

 

Gucci,

Forgive me for my ignorance. Why does that hurt the turbo? From my basic research it seems the efr turbos want max 60 psi but I do not find any documentation for the sxe turbos.

 

It doesn't, you do not need the turbosmart OPR in 99% of applications. Turbos have been around for decades before the OPR came out. For ball bearing turbos you use a small orifice -4AN inlet adapter (tiny hole to regulate flow). For journal bearing you use the larger orifice.

 

i didn’t even know turbo oil pressure regulators existed until reading these last few posts… why would someone need one?

 

@Michael Mansour I'm curious, we're you using the returnless OPR or the OPR with its own return line? Also were you logging the pressure after the OPR with a oil pressure sensor or at the bare minimum did you have visibility on the pressure with a mechanical gauge?

I gave the returnless OPR a try. To start, I just added the turbosmart 100 psi mechanical gauge to verify the turbo was getting oil pressure but logging the oil pressure is for sure needed. Idle was perfect. I drove around the block and went into boost to redline in 2nd gear and pulled back into my garage. Less then a mile trip. Popped the hood and the gauge was reading 0! Needless to say I was spooked so I pulled the OPR off. My max oil pressure is close to a 130 psi. I'm not sure if the gauge just died or if the this is just too much oil pressure for the returnless OPR? Just curious as to what your pressure readings were with the OPR. If you have no visibility on the pressure after the OPR at all you definitely should not use one!

 

That's wild.

On my personal car and all the customer cars I've only used the return style knowing how much oil pressure we have to contend with.

​​​​

 

it varies a lot, but a rotary engine with heavy weight oil and a high pressure regulator setting will generate much higher pressures than most engines will see even with additional main bearing clearancing, especially until the oil gets up to temp if running 20W50 etc. 150 psig cold is not that unusual in certain cases.

 

Good evening all, Got the new s364.5/365 and installed it just now. I got a new 1/4 npt to 4an adapter with the turbo from agp turbo. I took the chance to also re-do my oil drain line and made it slightly shorter which resulted in a slightly more direct flow path with not as much of a bend. New oem orange gaskets for the turbo drain and front cover drain. I also removed the opr and ran a new ptfe 4an vibrant line with vibrant high flow ptfe 90 degree fittings. Fired it up and no complaints. Drove a little to clear the smoke and it was back to its old self. Idling a little better oddly and no leaks which is always the best. Tuning and burn in time to come. -mike

 

Took the car for an hour and a half drive this evening to start the ecu adjustments. It comes into boost much faster than the previous turbo and I kind of wish I had a turbine shaft speed sensor. Seems as if its always ready to go. I haven't done more than 30% throttle but the boost is there right when I touch it. At least compared to the S369.

 

Just for everyone's information. This is what my old turbo looked like. Notice the bluing on the CHRA, not sure how hot it has to get for that to happen...im sure the blanket helped keep it nice and toasty

 

maybe that blanket holds too much heat in? if the CHRA is changing color it was HOT

 

since you totally fried the bearing assembly (lack of lube) the chra suffered the same fate.

 

@Michael Mansour - I'm still curious, did you use the returnless OPR or OPR with a return line? Also were you measuring the oil pressure from the OPR? This info would help other if they were going to add a OPR.

 

Neutron,

I was running the returnless v2 opr. I was not measuring pressure like you were, but probably ended in a similar result with low to no pressure...going forward I'll be following the logic of turbos didn't need an opr before why does it need it now.

If it ain't broke dont fix it I think is what they say

 

Thanks for the info! The returnless V2 OPR is not rotary safe!

 

Not sure about that maybe just not safe for a journal bearing turbo on a rotary.

 

i am planning to speak w TurbosmartUSA today re the returnless OPR. i have run both the V1 and V2. probably a couple thou miles on V1 and 1200 miles on V2. V1 was on my EFR9180 and V2 was on my Garrett G40-1150. no problems to date.

looking at the Turbosmart guidence i see:

"The filter should be cleaned thoroughly and/or replaced as
required in line with engine oil changes."

"in line" is of course curious.... do they mean every oil change? probably initially and then frequency might depend on the condition of the filter. i note there is a port for a pressure gauge and they recommend checking pressure. i assume if it is lower than 40 the filter might be partially occluded.

my OPR is sitting under my UIM. if i were to use an analog gauge i would want to relocate it. if i were to use a digital gauge i can easily log it and place an alert in my ECU so if pressure drops to less than 40 i am notified. i wouldn't have to relocate using the digital.. i like that idea and given that Honeywell has come out with a new less expensive line of pressure sensors this looks like a fit.

here's the link to the new HON ($72) pressure sensor from one of my favorite vendors Ballenger Motorsports:

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...n2s7pitrsm4986

of course running an OPR isn't absolutely necessary.

Michael, have you disassembled your unit to check the filter? .

 

wouldn’t that be post engine oil filter any way? You might be having filter blowby issues, but possibly a small piece of silicone or pipe tape could sneak in.

seems if it would clog the OPR it could just as easily plug the ball bearing orifice.





A gauge or sensor needs to be remote from the the turbo heat zone; found out the hard way myself. The kit somebody used to sell on here was just an adjustable pressure gauge snubber valve. You’d set it at idle and then it not being dynamic, the pressure would increase with rpm, but still be within an acceptable range.

https://dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/202...Snubbers.d.pdf
.

 

A lot of oil pedestal adapters do not provide filtered oil at the feed port, some do. I switched mine for that reason.

EDIT:

Sakebomb and Banzai: sensor and feed ports are unfiltered

FFE: 1x filtered -6 an orb port, 2x unfiltered 1/8 npt sensor ports - this is the one I'm using, NOTE: they redesigned it to add the filtered port, older versions were unfiltered.

Raceonly: 3x filtered -6 an orb ports, 1x filtered pressure sensor 1/8 npt port, 1x unfiltered temp senor 1/8 npt port.

 

Our one does. Provides 3 AN-6 ports Post filter and one 1/8NPT port post filter, one 1/8NPT port pre-filter.

I can't put a link to it here since this would be considered advertising but if someone wants a look just send me a dm.

 

I don’t have that situation and never would allow it, but thanks for clarifying.
.

 

All,

This is being fed from the front iron like a normal stock car.

@Howard,

Have a look below at the pictures I took under my work magnifier. I have not changed the filter since I got it with the turbo. The filter didn't seem too dirty to me considering its been through 2 engine teardowns but defiantly should have been changing it. There are some large witness marks on the inside of the OPR though where the regulator "diaphragm" moves up and down. You can also see on the piston that there is a rough spot on it. There are 3 of these rougher spots and they are perfectly spaced away from each other which is odd. The witness marks are on both sides of the opr and they are 180 degrees out from each other. Possibly the piston gets stuck in a position resulting in low flow? Please let me know your thoughts

 

how close is it to the heat zone of the turbo assembly?
.

 

Mine had a 1ft section of 4 an separating it from the turbo. It was sitting under the uim/behind the alt