I led the remote tuner astray when I told him it was lining up with my own mark. Learning

 

Update:

I have been driving the car almost every day and it is a blast to drive. I am giving it the full gas. The EGT differential is slowly getting smaller which is making me feel good. At idle fresh rebuild it was around 40 degrees difference. It went up to 80 as the compression dropped in the rear. Its now down to about a 50 degree difference. I will keep driving it like a daily and will see how things progress.

Were at about 1800 miles which is a new record lol

 

Update:

Everything still seems as normal. Here's a nice rolling video of me burning some gas in the car

 

Hear the difference? Much better.

 

Honestly I cant hear a difference, it does sound a little smoother but I cannot tell by the tone of the car how it is running.

 

Update:
I've been driving the car all around. Did a 500 mile trip this past Tuesday. Heat soaked fully she still ripped with no issues. Plug change and comp test tomorrow and we will see how things are looking. Motor has about 2500 miles on it now.

 

Love it! Glad to hear you got everything sorted out!

 

after reading this whole thread, man that was a journey all i can say is shawn does a hell of a job but hes at the mercy of who he works for as what info he is given.
The first video on the dyno and the manifold glowing red, i can hear your belts chirping and in my experience that is due to incorrect coil to plug setup, aka leading and trailing swapped on wrong rotors etc. In the end did u check both front and rear rotors, leading and trailing with timing light?

 

Thank you for bringing that up I don't think I mentioned it previously. The "pinging" noise I thought I was hearing was my gear selector rattling in its housing. If I maintain pressure on the shifter it does not make any noise. Kicked my self in the butt for that one...

Yes timing was checked on front and rear

 

That's a bit of a long bow to draw suggesting that is the primary link to belt slip.

 

There is no belt slippage I have a dual alt pulley and there is no sign of rubber or material being deposited around any pulley.

 

I was referring to dill's comments.

 

Slides,

​Thank you for the clarification I mis-interpreted your post.

 

This comes from personal experience with having my coils wired wrong 😁 belt always chirped on hard accell on boost never in vacuum, so I only speak on what I personally have experienced and when we checked all 4 coil spark per rotor we found I had crossed some wires. In the end it did cost me the engine and had very bad chatter on the rotor housings. So that's all was just a comment

 

I'd agree it happens at high load first (or cold start when they are stiff and friction coefficient is lower) as that will see peak crank acceleration but it doesn't necessarily mean you are cross firing because you are starting to get slip.

 

Update:
I had been putting off the comp test and plug change because I have been enjoying driving the car! Yesterday I noticed small hiccup/miss at peak load. I decided to go ahead and change the spark plugs as a preliminary step. They had about 2500-3000 miles on them. They didn't look too bad but I went ahead and changed them regardless. I am running a NGK Racing 10 in the leading and a stock bur9eq in the trailing. After plug change the misfire has seemed to gone away. I didn't feel anything driving it to church this morning.

While changing the plugs I went for a comp test. Please note this is a COLD compression test where my previous ones were hot.
Front : 128 123 120
Rear: 105 108 103

I believe the low rear comp is due to the damage caused while I had the trigger offset incorrectly by 11 degrees. The front comp is looking really good but the rear not so much. I will continue to monitor it and see if it changes. It most certainly isn't as low as I used to get it after a single full pull (70 psi).

I also got an oil analysis done as I believe my front stat gear is failing pre-maturely (probably have belts too tight but also rx8 eshaft w/ rx7 bearings). Screenshot below for any UOA people



I might pull the motor to change the front stat gear but Ill give it some time...

 

Update:

Well that was fast. Went to start it and I noticed it sounded a little bit off. Checked under the hood and I could hear a loud ticking coming from the ignition coils.... The burned coil is running the rear trailing. I noticed that the EGTs had risen almost 100 degrees in the rear.



Why that has happened after changing the plugs I'm not sure. Maybe I damaged the ignition lead, maybe I have a bad plug. I will start with changing the plug wires as I wanted to get some Magnecor ones anyways. Gonna put in one of my old AEM ign1a coils and replace the plug.

 

Update:

Took out the ignition coil and found this underneath. Looks like it got really roasted out.




​​​

I've swapped in one of my old ign1as and I'll give it another test...if it roasts again I'll change plug. If it still roasts I'll do wires.

 

you might just check the wires (if you haven't already) a bad wire or plug will make the coil work harder, and then they tend to do stuff like that...

 

Small update:

​​​​​​My magnecor wires came in. I got the 10mm wires because why not. 24 inches long was the perfect length if you have your ignition coils up by the brake and clutch systems.

Definitely a noticable difference with the cold starts not being as rough and egts don't seem to go as low as idle. I used to be able to get them down to the 700s after idling for a long time but now they don't go lower than high 800s. I also turned up the boost a little bit. It was around 10-11 psi and now it's 12-13 psi.

The turbo sounds good. I'll have to figure out a good way to capture the audio externally.

 

I had the same thing happen to a coil of mine when I was chasing sync loss issues with my 36-1 FFE hall trigger. In my case I can definitely say it had nothing to do with plug wires as I have none (running a custom direct COP setup) and the R7420 plugs had less than a hundred miles when this happened. The cause of the sync loss was likely how I had the 3 grounds per coil ran. I did not separate them. After I rewired them appropriately, I have not had an issue.

 

Prowess,

Thank you for the input. I have a Haltech wire harness and the coils are grounded to the individual rotor housings on the respective pin and also to the battery on the other pins. I will have to check and see if there are any CELs for the sync loss it should trigger one....I would defiantly be curious in seeing how you made an IGN1A COP.

 

The grounds are supposed to go:
One to battery, one to respective rotor housing, and one to sensor return - the dedicated ground for your sensors (hall, map, tps etc.) from the ECU.
If Haltech is running pin B to the battery that is not correct, but doesn't mean that it is necessarily the cause of your problems.

 

Are you sure that's supposed to go to sensor ground? I get that the company putting their sticker on it in that pictures advises to do so, but isn't that different than the thread on here that explains how to properly wire it based on the original designer's guidance?

 

This is arcing to the path of least resistance, which in your case may be the bracket and bolt.

Could be grounding.
Could be coil dwell.
Could be bracket/bolt combination.
Could be installation roughness/abuse.

Was the Magnecor 10mm Setup from the Pettitt site with their precut to length units? 24" sounds just about right. I may do an A-B test for my MSD vs. these as I ran the 8.5mm Magnecor on my Honda for a decade and loved them.