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What's the story on the alternator? Did the repair shop/vendor have anything to say about it? Assuming it was put back on the car. My money is on a faulty alternator, whether it was over or under discharging voltage. Everything you've done has been for the better and will certainly improve any symptoms.
Looking forward to what happens next.
they couldn't replicate any issues with alternator and just replaced the regulator "in case"
I have yet to see the battery light come back on since then, not sure if my issue was voltsge related since in all logs it showed to be charging at the time.
Im waiting to get a chance to to do a few pulls on dyno before linking with tuner again to see if hp/tq changed with meth on and to see graphs.
another issue did show it's face open looking at logs though. I'm running that radium drop in hanger, with 3x walbro 450 pumps
one as a lift, other as the main and the 3rd pump as a "secondary/in case pump"
well tuner has that secondary pump kicking on at 4,000 rpms above 12 psi because my fuel pressure seems to hit a wall at 53 psi until that secondary pump kicks on and pressure continues to rise
boost will climb but pressure doesn't for some reason. its all rewired with 10 gauge wire, and 3x relays.
I've recordered 13.7v volts and about 16 amps at connection on top of sending unit for main pump. so idk what's going there, but one issue at a time. need to make sure my ignition is fixed
so basically my injector pressure differential would drop to like 39 psi as opposed to 43.5 psi at like 10 psi of boost or so until secondary pump comes on at 4,000 rpms
You could always trigger the pump sooner in a safer zone so you have a lower risk of losing pressure at the wrong time. Check everything mechanically too. I had a fuel pressure sensor on my FD that would drop fuel pressure as boost rose. Checked it mechanically and everything was good.
What kind of power do you plan to make that you need three fuel pumps? My one lonely pump supports 500+ to the wheels
it was more of a i have space, why not a throw another one in. and if I wanted to go e85 it was there.
didn't think I would need it honestly, and I shouldn't need it
went back to dyno for 2 pulls to see if i fixed issue. no misfiring FELT but made same hp on pump and i think similar with meth on
choppy graph again
so over this
340 hp was 14 psi pump fuel
356 hp was 18 psi with ai
i did extensive testing w a BW SXE 62 which is quite similar to your turbo on the compressor side. (actually just a little better).
it made just over 500 at 20 psi.
to calculate at 18 we add the barometric pressure and solve for the diff:
20 + 14.7 = 34.7
18 + 14.7 = 32.7
32.7/34.7 = .94
.94 X 500 = 471 at 18.
sorry but i have forgotten what your motor has as to ports. if you have stock ports that might be part of the answer. peak torque around 5500 suggests stock ports.
my ports show peak torque around 6250.
your graph, even at 3 smoothing, still seems to hide a problem.
i did extensive testing w a BW SXE 62 which is quite similar to your turbo on the compressor side. (actually just a little better).
it made just over 500 at 20 psi.
to calculate at 18 we add the barometric pressure and solve for the diff:
20 + 14.7 = 34.7
18 + 14.7 = 32.7
32.7/34.7 = .94
.94 X 500 = 471 at 18.
sorry but i have forgotten what your motor has as to ports. if you have stock ports that might be part of the answer. peak torque around 5500 suggests stock ports.
my ports show peak torque around 6250.
your graph, even at 3 smoothing, still seems to hide a problem.
please do post at zero smoothing.
i emailed you the 2 dyno graphs today, i only did 2 pulls, one with meth and another without
yes stock ports
duh me as to your ports... just noted the title of the thread. i don't have experience w stock ports as to power output but the stock primary is beyond dreadful as to flow. clearly Mazda engineered it to be restrictive. the primary runner also has engineered roadblocks. the secondaries are better but still can be substantially improved. i am going to do a thread on port tech soon as well as a more extensive section on my site.
considering your peak torque is at 5500, perhaps much of your missing power is just the ports. peak torque on a well engineered set of non-bridgeports should be 6200-6300.
i do think we need to see zero smoothing due to the wiggles at 3 smoothing. the wiggles are too close together to be boost variations.
primary sizing is like trying to run a 440 while breathing thru a straw. probably mileage and emissions were job one, certainly not power. ideally flow should be in balance from both sides of the rotor. a properly shaped LARGE primary port is less restrictive than the OE port. my primary ports get 21 mpg steady state highway at 75 mph.
yuch
the same goes for the mini runners. note the cast in roadblocks on all four sides:
most shop produced "streetports" do little w the primaries... often not appreciated as perhaps the most important aspect of optimized ports is their benefits are delivered all the time. there is always less effort both in vacuum and boost to deliver power. when you are in the boost mode they make more power at less boost. if you have a set of marginal ports you can make, for example, 400 hp at 17 psi. with an optimal set of ports you can make the same 400 at 14. IAT out of the compressor goes up (lots) w boost. more temp, less power and closer to detonation. ideally you want to make your power at less boost. i recently made 539 at 15.9 psi. partially due to the G40-1150 but also due to the ports lack of restriction.
port quality is an important link in the chain.
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 06-07-23 at 07:56 AM.
I get the stock port thing, just seems odd even people with stock ports make more power. maybe i still misfiringon top end?
could be a restriction? im measuring EMAP thru egr port on LIM. I'm usually always 1:1 till I think 6k rpms where they match up (emap and imap)
I'm running 3"dp, magna flow resonator and then apex n1 dual
Those numbers track normally with what I've seen on a dynojet, but your oscilloscope trace seems odd with the consistent voltage spikes you were getting on your signal. If your oscilloscope was picking up those voltages, your wires were picking them up too most likely. If your ecu main ground isn't on the engine, you should humor us and put it on the block just to see what happens.
Those numbers track normally with what I've seen on a dynojet, but your oscilloscope trace seems odd with the consistent voltage spikes you were getting on your signal. If your oscilloscope was picking up those voltages, your wires were picking them up too most likely. If your ecu main ground isn't on the engine, you should humor us and put it on the block just to see what happens.
I THINK the ecu ground is straight on battery terrminal
The most useful testing will be on the dyno under that area where you're having issues. It would be useful to see if the ground level on pin B is rising enough to trigger the coils under load. If voltage leaks enough on to the circuit or emi is enough, it could cause those issues. Try back probing pin A and B and playing with different probe grounding spots to see what happens. Ground is just your reference to what "0 volts" is so if voltage leaks to ground and raises it, the difference between your 12 or 5 volt will be smaller thus reducing the voltage your multimeter or oscilloscope will read on a circuit. Bad or incorrect grounds or too big of a spark gap or too high of cylinder pressures for what you're running can all mess with it along with other factors as the voltage that's being released on the secondary coil has to go somewhere and if it's not all across the plug, then it goes other places. I learned that the hard way when I fried a distributor by unplugging spark plug wires on a B series Honda to prime the turbo I just put on my car years ago.
The most useful testing will be on the dyno under that area where you're having issues. It would be useful to see if the ground level on pin B is rising enough to trigger the coils under load. If voltage leaks enough on to the circuit or emi is enough, it could cause those issues. Try back probing pin A and B and playing with different probe grounding spots to see what happens. Ground is just your reference to what "0 volts" is so if voltage leaks to ground and raises it, the difference between your 12 or 5 volt will be smaller thus reducing the voltage your multimeter or oscilloscope will read on a circuit. Bad or incorrect grounds or too big of a spark gap or too high of cylinder pressures for what you're running can all mess with it along with other factors as the voltage that's being released on the secondary coil has to go somewhere and if it's not all across the plug, then it goes other places. I learned that the hard way when I fried a distributor by unplugging spark plug wires on a B series Honda to prime the turbo I just put on my car years ago.
ah ok, trying to remember how I wired it up.
pin B I have going to sensor ground on haltech
pin A is obviously coming from haltech for signal
i asked Alex for some numbers, and i ran it through my sheet, and then decided to just put it in the matchbot.
i used the peak power from the last 14psi run, 6697rpm.
the first 3 columns are not used
4 and 5 are the same except for turbine efficiency, and #6 is if boost goes to 17psi, which looks to be a very happy place
i don't see anything really wrong, although i beseech the peanut gallery to point out where i missed some mundane detail
so I got one of these to load test the coils
it jumps the 20kv constantly
when I adjust the gap to 30-40kv and it barely does it and not always. sometimes it'll go a second or 2 without seeing a spark
I spoke to lance nist tbe creator of the mercury coil
he said these coils should def be jumping the 40kv with no problem. i need to double to make sure my pins are correct and get back to him. very nice gentleman for sure, owes me nothing but is willing to also help figure out issue
glad to see Lance is still at it. he really did design the all conquering IGN-1A coils. i bought my coils from him in 2013. a good guy and into all kinds of neat things like designing Defense Dept buoys that do some sort of black things. if Lance says 40 KV should be good and you aren't, time to get digging.
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 06-13-23 at 07:29 PM.
Thats why you dont run spark plug wires parallel to eachother.
"Crossfire hurricane" for real going on there
Notice stock coil and plug arrangement. Trailing coil, leading coils (waste spark), trailing coil.
This allows trailing spark plug wires to run far away from other spark plug wires for less chance of crossfire and leading plug wires can run next to eachother since waste spark wont crossfire (both pleading plug wires fire together).
Thats why you dont run spark plug wires parallel to eachother.
"Crossfire hurricane" for real going on there
Notice stock coil and plug arrangement. Trailing coil, leading coils (waste spark), trailing coil.
This allows trailing spark plug wires to run far away from other spark plug wires for less chance of crossfire and leading plug wires can run next to eachother since waste spark wont crossfire (both pleading plug wires fire together).
Many modifications are worse than stock.
does my routing seem improper?
the way u see image posted with wire laying is the way the wire was when arching
idk if it's doing it when running down to plug
06-01-23, 05:59 PM
