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running an iwg efr 8374 on stock port rew. hit the dyno and it seems like its not making the power it should? alittle backround runnning brand new haltech coils, elite 1500 on pump 93 and aem meth controlled by haltech. these numbers are from a dyno jet
did a baseline run with tuner. at 14 psi it made about 330 with safe timing numbers. after about hr or so we start adding the meth.
first pull it went down to 300hp on same boost with AFRS in high 10s
after another hr of tickering the afr, adding 3 MORE lbs of boost (so around 18 now) and adding more timing we ended up at 343hp and 315 tq. tuner said something isnt right and we should stop. he said that should be 400hp all day
i have double checked the base timing on leading and trailing. from idle to 8k rpms and was pretty much dead on. EMAP was LOWER then IMP till around 6000 rpms i believe then it was closer to 1:1
egts looked good. afrs high 10s but for some reason not making the power "it should"
tuner is sorta stumped and i am as well.
motor made about 100 psi on all faces HOT so compression is good, runnig a brand new greddy VMIC, 3" downpipe to resonator and apexi n1 duals.
i have smoked the intake before didnt see any leaks but havent tried pressurizing it. fuel pressure was good, kock level good. knock actually dropped with ai and the uim would get really cool
temps were high about 90* ambient with 50% humidity. and we were having issues with the dynojet not reading to 7,500 or higher rpms.
so i guess the actual number isnt much of the concern as is the difference between power at 14 pump vs 18 psi with ai and more timing?
Good point assuming it’s accurate, I can’t read those photos very well on my phone. Even though it was smoked prior, that doesn’t mean something didn’t let loose after.
Flow not making it to the engine is the likely culprit, but struggling to believe it actually went to 183k when the graph ends at 128k, since that theoretically would be the stall speed. It would attest to the strength of the components to go 50% beyond that and not come apart. It went beyond the 128k limit way early in the run is also adding to my doubt on the rotating speed accuracy.
Good point assuming it’s accurate, I can’t read those photos very well on my phone. Even though it was smoked prior, that doesn’t mean something didn’t let loose after.
Flow not making it to the engine is the likely culprit, but struggling to believe it actually went to 183k when the graph ends at 128k, since that theoretically would be the stall speed. It would attest to the strength of the components to go 50% beyond that and not come apart. It went beyond the 128k limit way early in the run is also adding to my doubt on the rotating speed accuracy.
i blew up the picture, and it was surprisingly legible. but yeah, it is so far off its kind of suspect.
I would suppose that a low cost, hand-held non-contact tachometer could read the rpm speed of the compressor inducer with the inlet piping removed for verification.
It would still make sense to smoke the intake system again regardless.
otherwise there are many stock port EFR8374 example threads in this forum section making 400-450 whp as proposed.
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^^
was thinking if boost reference was off the compressor cover, so not showing the usual pressure drop of IC- since the other parameters besides boost/power realtionship look good.
But now thinking on the other side of the pressure ratio (high turbo inlet vacuum) like teamrx8.
When I was selecting an airfilter for my FC I spoke to a tech and he said dryflow is just for hotwire MAF cars (oil contamination issue) and their traditional oiled filters flow better.
Try taking air filter off.
when I took off my 6" base, 12" long oiled K&N boost dropped from 12psi to 10 psi and power remained the same. Thats how much a superior flowing filter affected pressure ratio on my FC.
an interesting and challenging situation. you are down, easily 100 hp. a boost leak that large would clearly be heard so take that off the list. airfilter also. i would go back to your dyno runs and look at them with zero smoothing. misfires, would show and could be a possibility.
thanx for the into guys I really appreciate the help!
so the reference is off the uim in stock map sensor location. I surely hope there isn't a rag in the intercooler pipes haha. warn up plates and been removed in the uim.
I was really hoping it to be something as simple as a boost leak, ill see if he can open the file and remove the smoothing
I did notice charging voltage being alil low in that area. but not sure if that would be the culprit
if ur talking to me well thank very much. means alot to me. i tried to spend time on little details like heat management and foaming every hole greddy vmic setup.
there is a link to I think the intake hose I used for turbo inlet https://www.siliconeintakes.com/turb...-45-p-433.html
05-26-22, 01:01 PM
