Evans has good points, but basic heat transfer rate is not one of them. See my posts here on pg 3 and 4.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...6&page=3&pp=15

I'd keep flow high .... old evans used to come with high flow pump and big rad kits.

No cavitation issue, but don't want vacuum in lower hose. Run 7 psi w/o ast, or zero with 3/32 pill in ast hose from filler.

I noticed a 180F stant t-stat for a gm car, similar to FD t-stat but with much bigger center flow valve. May be able to mod it to work, vs holes in perimiter.

For track cooling, put a valve in the heater hose return, and shut it off. Heater loop bypasses the rad with significant hot coolant flow that goes back into block. (credit Cam Worth).

Last unsolicited advice ... use the spare turbo oil return port in 'block' as a 2nd vent. One guy did test my theory, and big drop in oil to surge can from hard rights.

Kevin

 

Any updates Max?

 

rad / ic / ac cores mounted and ducted... pipes complete... need to relocate the oil thermostat (aftermarket), get a battery in there, fill it with fluids, and fire it up.

I have worked every day this month, but I finally get a day off tomorrow. I'm going to stop by and snap some pictures. I'll post them here. I think the cores (ic, rad) are out again to get cleaned, but the mounting fab work is done. Don't be disappointed if it doesn't look as finsihed as I indicated above.

-Max

 

Here are some more pics. I realize most of these suck, but I always enjoy looking at what people have done, so I thought I'd just throw these up in case some of you feel the same way.

The first pic are the extra duct parts that seal up the gaps to force all the air through the cores, two shots of the engine, and two shots of my re-configured "20B" IC core.

 

nice man keep up the good work

more pics of it installed

 

Here are some pics of the pipes, the radiator (with some ducting installed) and the ac exchanger, a bleed screw in the radiator to get the bubbles out, and the empty front end as viewed from inside the engine bay. Note the 90 degree on the turbo, too. It fits easily under the hood now (unlike my old RX6 piping setup that had a lot of hood rubbing).

 

Here's two shots of the turbine housing and LIM (yes, I will point the wastegate down before I fire it up). And one more shot of the turbo. That's all for today.

I'll post some pics of it all assembled later.

 

Keep them coming Max! Looking good, what's the current ETA?

 

Well I called KDR today... My FMIC finally came in yesterday and they said the car would ready to go very very soon. Skip said they are just in awe of the turbo up there, they said it is absolutely huge and they expect to put down some very nice numbers with it.

Needless to say, I'm estactic. I've been waiting since June to finally bring it back home and now I'm looking at picking up hopefully sometime next week. After that I'm breaking it in and dynoing so we should have some dynosheets from someone other than Dee to check out in the near future.

 

Awesome. Be sure to take lots of pictures and post the sheet!
Can't wait to see the numbers! I'm sure you will be really happy when you finally get to bring her back home.

Come on Max don't hold out on us!

 

Mine is still coming together, but there has been no progress since my last update. I have been wrong so many times that I don't want to predict a completion date anymore.

-Max

 

Great to hear, but for your sake, I REALLY urge you to take to a qualified tuner such as Demetrios or Steve Kan. Otherwise you'll be needing a new engine too.

 

I figure it's time to resurrect this thread since my car is almost done. I talked to Mazdatrix today and most of the final items (relocating the oil thermostat, radiator hoses, etc.) are finished now. It's just about ready to fill with fluids and fire it up for the first time. I don't have any new pics yet, but I'll snap a few shots the next time I am there and post them. I expect that I'll still have a few bugs to work out before break-in and tuning, but it's really close to being complete now.

-Max

 

I got the car back today! Woo hoo!

I am driving it slow for the break-in, so I don't have dyno numbers or even a seat-of-the-pants feel for it under boost yet. I doubt if I have topped 3 psi on it yet -- that's about the most boost I got on some light throttle acceleration.

Pics below...

-Max

 

I have been a bit worried about cooling issues with the FMIC and NPG+ coolant. I don't have any hard-use data yet, but I got stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic on my way home for 30+ minutes and the temps just hovered around 180F -- perfect. My sensor in stock location, but it is connected to a real gauge (SPA). I have some holes in the thermostat, PFC fan settings set pretty low to keep the fans running, and the heat exchanger stack is all ducted together to force the air that comes in the nose through all the cores.

Oddly, my oil temps were pretty high. I've got the CWR oil coolers with ducts. The Mocal oil thermostat has been relocated to make room for the radiator (and its nice to not have it hanging off the front cover anymore). The sensor is located in a fitting spliced into the hose that feeds the engine (and thus should be cool since the oil just went through the coolers. Or at least I think it is, hmm maybe it is in the hose coming out of the front cover -- that would explain the higher-than-expected temps. The temps were about 10F higher than the water temps at rest, but when I am moving the temps got up to as high as 215F. I'll check to make sure the hoses are connected to the right ports on the thermostat, and maybe replace the thermostat if everything looks to be hooked up okay. I have heard of some issues with those thermostats, but the reports were just about leaking rather than temp-related misbehavior. I'll have to look into that -- 215F under light cruising is way too hot.

I didn't get any intake temps yet, but I will gather that data as I tune the car and start boosting.

Before anyone mentions it, I will be getting a larger air filter.

-Max

 

Max, is the turbo oil cooled only or water cooled and oil cooled? If it is only oil cooled that can explain your high oil temps.

Also, how come you don't have a heat shield for your turbo?

 

Max,

Awesome clean set-up you got there! Congrats man! Who does the tuning for you? If you already have someone you completely trust, great but if not I strongly recommend Mr. Justin Nenni at www.tuningconcepts.com. Worth ever penny!

 

He's a supra Guy right?

 

oil cooled only.

 

It is just oil cooled, but so was my RX-6 (though I don't have oil temp data to compare with). I still think it is much hotter than it should be after going through the coolers.

I will be ceramic coating, etc. at some point. I'd like to get a shield or balnket for the turbine housing, too, but the housing is huge and I am not sure where to find one that will fit.

-Max

 

I think gotham racing has a turbo blanket that will work with the R85. I know someone who bought the kit and used that blanket, and if I remember correctly, it fit.

 

Gotham's blanket works on the GT40 and T78 just fine. Should work without issue on the R85. My last two turbos were oil cooled only as well. Both were rebuilt by Majestic who said the bearings were black. I have the set out of my GT40. I've decided to upgrade the stock driver's side oil cooler with a matching Mocal 25 row which I already have on the passenger's side. Might not be a bad idea to put a fan on at least one of the coolers with a thermoswitch.

 

Nice Nice engine bay looks all business!!

good luck with the oil temps.

With a larger filter () what's the plan to keep AIT's down?

I'm currently looking for ways to get lower pre-turbo air temps down.

 

I've heard of other reports from people using Evans of increased oil temperature. Since oil plays a large role in rotary cooling (some say up to 40%) I could see your concern. It seems since Evans doesn't dissipate heat as well as water and ethylene glycol, thus increasing oil temperatures. Congratulations Max, can't wait until it's tuned and you get some numbers. Time to update your site!

 

Max that is a excellent example of how a R85 should be installed. Do you mind if I put it on my web site.

Demetrios