Premix?
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Richland Center WI
I have a rebuilt streetported 12a. Its in an 85. I currently have the OMP wired wide open and have a 47 OER carb. I am in the process of turboing it. I will be running about 15 psi. Can i still use the OMP or will the boost overpower it and not allow any oil in? I was planning on premixing. If i do go that route what is a good ratio to use? Thanks!
Last edited by zaridar; Jun 13, 2010 at 06:06 PM. Reason: misspelling
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A good ashless premix oil will only smoke a little while the engine is cold. If you are running 3mm seals vs. 2mm seals, the seals themselves are 33.3% taller and require more lubrication against the housing. I've been running 2 oz./gal for a few months now with no problems..
A good ashless premix oil will only smoke a little while the engine is cold. If you are running 3mm seals vs. 2mm seals, the seals themselves are 33.3% taller and require more lubrication against the housing. I've been running 2 oz./gal for a few months now with no problems..
Here's the way I see it, I understand only the top of the seal contacts the rotor housing. The apex seals are the main contact point between the rotor and the housing, also the point of the most friction. The premix oil not only lubricates but draws heat off of the seal. The 3mm seal is bigger therefore it has the capability of retaining more heat, heat warps seals.
The few days i've been playing around with my car with a 1.5oz/gallon ratio it hasn't smoked any more than usual. A little bit at startup and like 30 seconds after that no smoke.
Runs fine i guess. Revs to infinity without a problem. Cold start is a bitch but that could be because i'm still on stock grounds and may be missing some due to what the previous owner put the car through..... Like, it'll sound like it's firing on one rotor for a sec and then the other will kick on over making me think the plugs might be a little dirty. It never did that when i had the stock omp. I do the 3k shutdown every time.
This problem does not occur when the engine is warm.
It may or may not be premix ratio related but i think i'll stick with the 1.5oz/gal so i KNOW my motor is well lubricated and can withstand me breaking everything i touch by beating the **** out of it.
Runs fine i guess. Revs to infinity without a problem. Cold start is a bitch but that could be because i'm still on stock grounds and may be missing some due to what the previous owner put the car through..... Like, it'll sound like it's firing on one rotor for a sec and then the other will kick on over making me think the plugs might be a little dirty. It never did that when i had the stock omp. I do the 3k shutdown every time.
This problem does not occur when the engine is warm.
It may or may not be premix ratio related but i think i'll stick with the 1.5oz/gal so i KNOW my motor is well lubricated and can withstand me breaking everything i touch by beating the **** out of it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,290
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From: Richland Center WI
So basically its whatever i feel is good cuz everyone seems to have dfferent opinions... also does anyone know if the stock omp will still push oil into the intake with 15 psi? it is a mechanical one....85. What is the benefit of ashless oil to a rotary? if its only to prevent smoking i dont really care. does it help keep things clean in the engine?
Synthetic? Less carbon buildup, resistance to thermal breakdown, more friction protection.......
I dunno. There's charts that say this and that and show bearings ran with synthetic vs bearings ran with mineral oil and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out which bearing looked better but it's all relative. If mineral oil was crap then everyone using a stock omp on their stock, never touched 100k, 200k, or 300k rotary are doing something magical? Ofcourse these are usually n/a motors but it should put things into perspective.
MY REASON for switching was molecule tension/longer oil life. Oh and my omp needed parts and i didn't want to buy them so i blocked it all off. One less system to worry about.
I dunno. There's charts that say this and that and show bearings ran with synthetic vs bearings ran with mineral oil and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out which bearing looked better but it's all relative. If mineral oil was crap then everyone using a stock omp on their stock, never touched 100k, 200k, or 300k rotary are doing something magical? Ofcourse these are usually n/a motors but it should put things into perspective.
MY REASON for switching was molecule tension/longer oil life. Oh and my omp needed parts and i didn't want to buy them so i blocked it all off. One less system to worry about.
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