premix ratio without OMP
#1
premix ratio without OMP
I know this has been discussed many times. I just wanted to ask what is the MAZDA's mix ratio or our concensus for 2 cycle oil mix ratio? I deleted my OMP.
I always read 0.5oz/gallon to 1 oz/gallon, but these seem to be with the OMP. What's the premix ratio without the OMP?
thanks!
I always read 0.5oz/gallon to 1 oz/gallon, but these seem to be with the OMP. What's the premix ratio without the OMP?
thanks!
#5
thanks all. I guess mix heavy whenever possible?
just out of curiosity, wouldn't that change AFR because the oil is more viscous and burns at a different rate as more of it comprise the fuel mixture?
in other words, when I tune my car at 1:1 mix ratio, would running 2:1 lean out AFR in otherwise same condition?
just out of curiosity, wouldn't that change AFR because the oil is more viscous and burns at a different rate as more of it comprise the fuel mixture?
in other words, when I tune my car at 1:1 mix ratio, would running 2:1 lean out AFR in otherwise same condition?
#6
Tony Stewart Killer.
iTrader: (12)
thanks all. I guess mix heavy whenever possible?
just out of curiosity, wouldn't that change AFR because the oil is more viscous and burns at a different rate as more of it comprise the fuel mixture?
in other words, when I tune my car at 1:1 mix ratio, would running 2:1 lean out AFR in otherwise same condition?
just out of curiosity, wouldn't that change AFR because the oil is more viscous and burns at a different rate as more of it comprise the fuel mixture?
in other words, when I tune my car at 1:1 mix ratio, would running 2:1 lean out AFR in otherwise same condition?
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#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
If the ignition system is running properly why would it foul your plugs any more than the OMP? Also, of course it'll have some effect on AFR, just like summer vs. winter gas does, you're effectively altering your fuel blend. Unless you manage to do something horribly wrong it'll be negligible.
#13
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
AFR change will be so small you wouldn't notice it.
What will change is octane. 2-cycle is definitely not as resistant to burn as gasoline. The heavier the ratio of 2-cycle, the lower your octane.
I do not know ratio vs flashpoint effect at ratio's we commonly run, but if you were theoretically to pour a few quarts into your tank, most likely detonation could be a real problem.
Just run 1oz-1.5oz per gallon and be done with it. No issues here, and only a little blue weedwacker smoke! I like it!
What will change is octane. 2-cycle is definitely not as resistant to burn as gasoline. The heavier the ratio of 2-cycle, the lower your octane.
I do not know ratio vs flashpoint effect at ratio's we commonly run, but if you were theoretically to pour a few quarts into your tank, most likely detonation could be a real problem.
Just run 1oz-1.5oz per gallon and be done with it. No issues here, and only a little blue weedwacker smoke! I like it!
#18
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (19)
i run TCW-3 marine oil in my car without OMP. i run 0.5 ounce per gallon. My car is NA and is never on the track. As many people before me have said, 0.5-2 ounces per gallon is typical. Not every engine is the same. you have to play with the mixtures until you find what works best for your car/mods/application. again, my car seems to like 0.5 and i have never had any issues therefore i will continue to run 0.5 until my car tells me otherwise ahahahahhaah good luck.
#19
Tony Stewart Killer.
iTrader: (12)
From Pettit's Website
Recommended usage is 1 oz. per gallon of fuel. *minimum of 6 oz. for 10 gallons
I don't know if this is with or without OMP.
And to the original poster, remember the OMP injected dynamically depending on how the car was driven. When you premix you're always getting that same mixture whether you're at idle or at 8k rpms and 20 pounds of boost.
My favorite setup is to keep the mazda OMP. Replace the lines with SS braided. Then give the OMP it's own reservoir of proper 2 stroke oil like pettit sells. this way the lines wont crack, you dont have to premix on your own and add too little or too much, you're using the right type of oil instead of dirty engine oil, and you can keep track of how much oil is being used and will realize there is a problem with the omp if your oil level isnt going down consistently. Thats my thought.
Recommended usage is 1 oz. per gallon of fuel. *minimum of 6 oz. for 10 gallons
I don't know if this is with or without OMP.
And to the original poster, remember the OMP injected dynamically depending on how the car was driven. When you premix you're always getting that same mixture whether you're at idle or at 8k rpms and 20 pounds of boost.
My favorite setup is to keep the mazda OMP. Replace the lines with SS braided. Then give the OMP it's own reservoir of proper 2 stroke oil like pettit sells. this way the lines wont crack, you dont have to premix on your own and add too little or too much, you're using the right type of oil instead of dirty engine oil, and you can keep track of how much oil is being used and will realize there is a problem with the omp if your oil level isnt going down consistently. Thats my thought.
Last edited by Snook; 04-21-16 at 01:22 PM.
#20
Instrument Of G0D.
iTrader: (1)
AFR change will be so small you wouldn't notice it.
What will change is octane. 2-cycle is definitely not as resistant to burn as gasoline. The heavier the ratio of 2-cycle, the lower your octane.
I do not know ratio vs flashpoint effect at ratio's we commonly run, but if you were theoretically to pour a few quarts into your tank, most likely detonation could be a real problem.
Just run 1oz-1.5oz per gallon and be done with it. No issues here, and only a little blue weedwacker smoke! I like it!
What will change is octane. 2-cycle is definitely not as resistant to burn as gasoline. The heavier the ratio of 2-cycle, the lower your octane.
I do not know ratio vs flashpoint effect at ratio's we commonly run, but if you were theoretically to pour a few quarts into your tank, most likely detonation could be a real problem.
Just run 1oz-1.5oz per gallon and be done with it. No issues here, and only a little blue weedwacker smoke! I like it!
The flash point for most 2t oils is about 80-90c. The one I'm using, Motul 800 has a flashpoint above 250c. The flashpoint for most engine oils seems to be around 220c.
I don't really know how to interpret that, but it seems to suggest that the 2t oil would help to suppress detonation if anything?
Also, was told by a reputable and well established tuner that heavier premix will lean out the AFR's, but i imagine the effect would be pretty negligable.
Edit, just looked up what "flash point" even is ; its the temperature at which a liquid's vapours will burn at the surface of that liquid. Basically the temperature that you can hold a match to something and have it catch. I have no education in this field or anything, but i have a gut feeling it pretty much has virtually no bearing on the way our fuel ignites inside our engines.
Last edited by WANKfactor; 04-21-16 at 04:18 PM.
#21
F'D Up.
iTrader: (2)
Flashpoint
Edit, just looked up what "flash point" even is ; its the temperature at which a liquid's vapours will burn at the surface of that liquid. Basically the temperature that you can hold a match to something and have it catch. I have no education in this field or anything, but i have a gut feeling it pretty much has virtually no bearing on the way our fuel ignites inside our engines.[/QUOTE]
Flashpoint is the Reactivity to Heat of the Catalyst Mixture.
In Layman's Terms; it's based on Temperature of the Mixture then introducing a Self or External Source of Ignition.
1.) Cold/Cool Diesel you can throw a Cigarette or a Match into and it will go out upon contact.
2.) Luke Warm Diesel has the potential to React to the Flame but unlikely to ignite.
3.) Very Warm Diesel will likely Ignite with the introduction of Flame.
4) Hot Diesel will Violently Ignite under Flame or Compression.
Be careful and do this outside:
"Burnish two Ragu Caps together with Soldering iron or Welder, put a small hole in the center of one cap, place Diesel in a cook pot and bring it up to just shy of boiling, pour a small amount of the heated mixture into the Small hole on the cap, leaving a small pocket of air, Take a 5-8 pound Sledgehammer and target the Hole as the impact point, crush the canister and watch the Sledgehammer go through the roof if you are indoors.
The introduction of instant Compression to an already volatile heated mixture creates a Flashpoint that will react very quickly to Flame or ignition.
Flashpoint is the Reactivity to Heat of the Catalyst Mixture.
In Layman's Terms; it's based on Temperature of the Mixture then introducing a Self or External Source of Ignition.
1.) Cold/Cool Diesel you can throw a Cigarette or a Match into and it will go out upon contact.
2.) Luke Warm Diesel has the potential to React to the Flame but unlikely to ignite.
3.) Very Warm Diesel will likely Ignite with the introduction of Flame.
4) Hot Diesel will Violently Ignite under Flame or Compression.
Be careful and do this outside:
"Burnish two Ragu Caps together with Soldering iron or Welder, put a small hole in the center of one cap, place Diesel in a cook pot and bring it up to just shy of boiling, pour a small amount of the heated mixture into the Small hole on the cap, leaving a small pocket of air, Take a 5-8 pound Sledgehammer and target the Hole as the impact point, crush the canister and watch the Sledgehammer go through the roof if you are indoors.
The introduction of instant Compression to an already volatile heated mixture creates a Flashpoint that will react very quickly to Flame or ignition.
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