premix????
#1
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premix????
Hey,
What ratio are you guys using to premix oil?
25:1? 50:1? So many different school of thought.
I run the RA 3mm seals. Wolf 3d ( so no oil metering pump).....
I ask this here since practically all single turbo guys run premix....
Cheers and thanks all
George
What ratio are you guys using to premix oil?
25:1? 50:1? So many different school of thought.
I run the RA 3mm seals. Wolf 3d ( so no oil metering pump).....
I ask this here since practically all single turbo guys run premix....
Cheers and thanks all
George
#4
W. TX chirpin Monkey
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the amount of premix is really proportional to the amount of Load on the engine. Your OMP varied based upon this. From some of the engine builders that I have talked to they the stock Unit is really only good for 275-325 RWHP. From the motors that I have cracked open, premixed engines were in much better internal shape. For really long drives...10hrs or so. on the Highway, I've gone as low as 200:1 1oz of premix for every two gallons. Noting that I CAN NOT load up the motor, until I change the tank of gas. When I'm at the drag strip, autocross, or Daily driving, I use 100:1 1oz per gallon of gas. You'll hear alot of different mixes, but know that the key is LOAD on the engine. As we speak I'm going to lean out some of my numbers because I've gone back to a mechanical OMP, But i have an FC and can get away with that. I've also though of boring out the stock OMP injectors. But that's just a thought for now.
#5
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Not to sound like a dick, but isn't 1 oz. per gallon 128:1 ?? I mix 128:1 for daily driving and it seems to work fine, Amsoil hp injector oil is nice, not too much smoke.
#6
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cheers guys.....so you will stick with 100:1....
I am using the Motul 2T...not much smoke and seems to be fine....
Adding to much oil is detrimental no? fouled plugs and pre ignition or dieseling?
Cheers guys for your input....100:1
I am using the Motul 2T...not much smoke and seems to be fine....
Adding to much oil is detrimental no? fouled plugs and pre ignition or dieseling?
Cheers guys for your input....100:1
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#9
Will work for horsepower
If you dont have a oil metering pump or a computer that operates one then you have no choice!
And besides i hate the idea of burning dirty oil that was not designed to be burned in a engine without leaving deposits not to mention the fuel delution that causes oil to degrade!
And besides i hate the idea of burning dirty oil that was not designed to be burned in a engine without leaving deposits not to mention the fuel delution that causes oil to degrade!
#12
talking head
mazda premixed when?? bowl mixing was in 1968???
OMP puts the concentrated oil onto the apex seal crown and apex slot
- where it runs hottest
( and less directly the corner seal )
there is even mazda tech bulletins and articles by ken to illustrate the temps and volumes required to control them
premix sprays it over the shop, which includes uselessly onto the rotor flanks
- and not very much for the middle of the seal specifically
- granted if your 300 rwhp or more you may require a pre mix supplement
but i see zero valid argument for removing a functional non leaking OMP from a streetcar
- and functional and non leaking only requires basic maintenance, so only goons hide under that rock
yes, for a long time, many aftermarket ECU's failed to provide a stepper output to run s5 upwards EOMP
- and many that do, dont run it with closed loop precision
http://www.eomp.info
this is the answer for those ECU's, also for those running propane
also for those with s5 donk and s4 with s4 ECU car and not wanting a massive headache
and maybe also for the higher HP peoples, who want more or less oil at their demand
your dirty oil is in there anyway from the side plates and rotor sides
change your oil for clean stuff
did you realise petroleum / gasoline is made from it?, and it burns??
have you seen the build up that some syns leave cause the dont burn at all?
and how is the fuel diluting the OMP oil?
its diluting ALL your crank oil too, and every petrol motor does it regardless if premixed or not
i cant see your point???
your DILUTING your PETROL with premix oil !!!
what does that do for octane ???
what happens when you get that wrong and don't account for evaporation over a season??
- it will soon be 50: 1 at the engine and sooty and ping city
- or just as bad, all separated and laking below the petrol in the tank
----
if you have functional OMP, keep it , there is many very good reasons to keep it
( supported by a real world mazda with research )
and there is only wives tails and unfortunate ECU's that may have once impelled you to blank it
PS
you can modify the range of output stroke on stock EOMP by playing with the feedback sensor shims
and playing with washers on the stepper worm shaft
you can also bike cable a mech OMP for custom adjust
- and you can modify the shape of the gate in a mech OMP suction control valve for more
( the thing the lever moves )
and you can get 4 way mech units from NA or turbo , and with a little mod, they fit 12a timing cover and flow more
( turbo unit is higher output than NA unit )
OMP puts the concentrated oil onto the apex seal crown and apex slot
- where it runs hottest
( and less directly the corner seal )
there is even mazda tech bulletins and articles by ken to illustrate the temps and volumes required to control them
premix sprays it over the shop, which includes uselessly onto the rotor flanks
- and not very much for the middle of the seal specifically
- granted if your 300 rwhp or more you may require a pre mix supplement
but i see zero valid argument for removing a functional non leaking OMP from a streetcar
- and functional and non leaking only requires basic maintenance, so only goons hide under that rock
yes, for a long time, many aftermarket ECU's failed to provide a stepper output to run s5 upwards EOMP
- and many that do, dont run it with closed loop precision
http://www.eomp.info
this is the answer for those ECU's, also for those running propane
also for those with s5 donk and s4 with s4 ECU car and not wanting a massive headache
and maybe also for the higher HP peoples, who want more or less oil at their demand
And besides i hate the idea of burning dirty oil that was not designed to be burned in a engine without leaving deposits not to mention the fuel dilution that causes oil to degrade!
change your oil for clean stuff
did you realise petroleum / gasoline is made from it?, and it burns??
have you seen the build up that some syns leave cause the dont burn at all?
and how is the fuel diluting the OMP oil?
its diluting ALL your crank oil too, and every petrol motor does it regardless if premixed or not
i cant see your point???
your DILUTING your PETROL with premix oil !!!
what does that do for octane ???
what happens when you get that wrong and don't account for evaporation over a season??
- it will soon be 50: 1 at the engine and sooty and ping city
- or just as bad, all separated and laking below the petrol in the tank
----
if you have functional OMP, keep it , there is many very good reasons to keep it
( supported by a real world mazda with research )
and there is only wives tails and unfortunate ECU's that may have once impelled you to blank it
PS
you can modify the range of output stroke on stock EOMP by playing with the feedback sensor shims
and playing with washers on the stepper worm shaft
you can also bike cable a mech OMP for custom adjust
- and you can modify the shape of the gate in a mech OMP suction control valve for more
( the thing the lever moves )
and you can get 4 way mech units from NA or turbo , and with a little mod, they fit 12a timing cover and flow more
( turbo unit is higher output than NA unit )
#13
500+hp club
iTrader: (26)
hmm
i can see your point for a car under 300hp not too sure what this guy runs but for 400 and higher i believe in premix for sure the problem is if or when they omp fails your going to be scoring say a new or old set of housing pretty bad and as for octane levels well not sure what everyone else does for tuning but i always leave some room for no issues. and c16 makes a difference lol but its all just a matter of preference
#15
T67, did I say 7?
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#16
Racing Mechanic
100:1 100% synthetic 2 strokes oil , if you have not a oil metering pump
It look like the Royal Purple does the job very good , and it is not expensive at all
It look like the Royal Purple does the job very good , and it is not expensive at all
#19
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Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
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I run a 400 rwhp road race car at 80:1 to 100:1 depending on how accurate I mesure that day. I put a 250 ml container into a 25 L jerry can. Sometimes I overfill the measuring bottle just to make me feel safe.
-Trent
-Trent
#20
Bubblicious DEF.
iTrader: (36)
is protek the same as pre mix?
http://pettitracing.com/rx7/index_maintenance.htm
cuz pettit recomends 4 oz per tank... and i know our tanks are more then 4 gallons............
http://pettitracing.com/rx7/index_maintenance.htm
cuz pettit recomends 4 oz per tank... and i know our tanks are more then 4 gallons............
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