oil pooling in new bnr s4 turbo
#1
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oil pooling in new bnr s4 turbo
i have a brand new s4 bnr stage 4 turbo and there is oil pooling in the compressor inlet. there is 1500 miles on the turbo and engine and i have no engine breather going into the intake.
with only 300 miles on the turbo i heard pssssst when i was driving and it sounded like it came from the trubo. i have a small leak from the bottom of the turbo i am not shure if it is coming from the return line or from the cold side of the turbo. i will be pluuling the turbo to reseal the return pipe and to inspect the turbo.
my other concern is that the turbo does not seem to be producing alot of boost . i am not realy trying to boost but i would think it would want to spool and make more power then is seems it is
at what rpm do the bnrs produce boost?
thanks
with only 300 miles on the turbo i heard pssssst when i was driving and it sounded like it came from the trubo. i have a small leak from the bottom of the turbo i am not shure if it is coming from the return line or from the cold side of the turbo. i will be pluuling the turbo to reseal the return pipe and to inspect the turbo.
my other concern is that the turbo does not seem to be producing alot of boost . i am not realy trying to boost but i would think it would want to spool and make more power then is seems it is
at what rpm do the bnrs produce boost?
thanks
Last edited by turbine; 10-24-05 at 10:06 PM.
#2
"your turbo source"
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Hey Tyler.
If the engine has been built, people usually use the FD oil pressure regulators. The turbo is dynamic sealed inside so your crank case ventilation has to be properly set up. If the problem still exists, we need to do a restrictor in the oil supply to cut down the extra volume of oil entering the turbocharger b/c of the pressure jump from the upgraded regulator. You get a good vent on the crank case and get the right restrictor in the oil feed line and you will be set.
The boost can be turned up by shortening the wastegate actuator. That puts more spring pressure in your wastegate diaphram. If you see no change in boost level by doing this, you need to now check your boost controller. Sometimes the boost controller needs a restrictor pill in the pressure source line leading into the boost control solenoid. This makes the solenoid more effective in turning up the boost.
Just go over these things and you should be set. Give me a call if you have any questions...
Bryan@BNR
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If the engine has been built, people usually use the FD oil pressure regulators. The turbo is dynamic sealed inside so your crank case ventilation has to be properly set up. If the problem still exists, we need to do a restrictor in the oil supply to cut down the extra volume of oil entering the turbocharger b/c of the pressure jump from the upgraded regulator. You get a good vent on the crank case and get the right restrictor in the oil feed line and you will be set.
The boost can be turned up by shortening the wastegate actuator. That puts more spring pressure in your wastegate diaphram. If you see no change in boost level by doing this, you need to now check your boost controller. Sometimes the boost controller needs a restrictor pill in the pressure source line leading into the boost control solenoid. This makes the solenoid more effective in turning up the boost.
Just go over these things and you should be set. Give me a call if you have any questions...
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
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i will give that try. i need to stop this oil leak that i have. hopefuly i will be able to put a new gasket in the return pipe. as for the boost i will be hitting the dyno in a few weeks and i will see where i am at.
bryan when should i see full boost thanks
bryan when should i see full boost thanks
#4
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I have a BNR stage 4 as well.
Full boost will vary depending on individual engine/peripheral parts set-ups and the specs on the stage 4 such as "O" trim exhaust wheel to clipped "P" trim, as well as whether it is built off series 4 or 5 TII turbo/manifold.
You should see full boost between 3,000rpm and 6,000rpm. Seriously, those are the differences we have seen on this forum.
Last set-up I had with my S5 TII BNR Stage 4 with clipped "P" trim exhaust wheel Haltech data logs showed full 17psi boost by 3,500rpm with my JIC Spec 90 exhaust.
I switched to the more restrictive Racing Beat turbo back and full boost ~4,000rpm.
That is how sensitive turbo spool is to set-up- no two set ups will be exactly alike.
Full boost will vary depending on individual engine/peripheral parts set-ups and the specs on the stage 4 such as "O" trim exhaust wheel to clipped "P" trim, as well as whether it is built off series 4 or 5 TII turbo/manifold.
You should see full boost between 3,000rpm and 6,000rpm. Seriously, those are the differences we have seen on this forum.
Last set-up I had with my S5 TII BNR Stage 4 with clipped "P" trim exhaust wheel Haltech data logs showed full 17psi boost by 3,500rpm with my JIC Spec 90 exhaust.
I switched to the more restrictive Racing Beat turbo back and full boost ~4,000rpm.
That is how sensitive turbo spool is to set-up- no two set ups will be exactly alike.
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Bryan, what size oil restrictor do you advise as I am running a 0.065" and am having major oil consumption issues myself (not your turbo) and I'm trying to track down why the car is smoking so bad with new engine/turbo setup, especially at idle and upshifting...basically when there is high vacuum is when it smokes the worst. Under load and acceleration there is a little but not much. When I mean smoke I mean like going through 1 quart every 30 miles of oil kind of smoke...it's a huge thick fog
Trying to proceed that it is not the motor at this point to rule out external issues. There is no OMP and injector bungs are sealed off. There are no oil leaks outside the engine either. I also checked EGT probes (one in each header and post turbo, as well as O2 sensor and they are all really nice chocolate brown color). Spark plugs are caked with black from new map which is really rich in gas...this was expected, however, due to the map being rich.
I did try running with no restrictor and it was even worse than now and the line is a 5/16" feed with a 1/2" ID dump/ oil return.
I also do not have a oil catch can but one has been ordered and on the way. The turbo is a T-76 0.72 compressor with TO4E 1.32 turbine (for a 20B that's why so big).
Help!
Trying to proceed that it is not the motor at this point to rule out external issues. There is no OMP and injector bungs are sealed off. There are no oil leaks outside the engine either. I also checked EGT probes (one in each header and post turbo, as well as O2 sensor and they are all really nice chocolate brown color). Spark plugs are caked with black from new map which is really rich in gas...this was expected, however, due to the map being rich.
I did try running with no restrictor and it was even worse than now and the line is a 5/16" feed with a 1/2" ID dump/ oil return.
I also do not have a oil catch can but one has been ordered and on the way. The turbo is a T-76 0.72 compressor with TO4E 1.32 turbine (for a 20B that's why so big).
Help!
#6
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not to rob your thread but i think i have a similiar problem i have a white smoking that seems like its oil i only say this because i burn through oil quick in this car it eats the oil a ton when it feels like it. if you find out how to fix your problem let me know.
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Originally Posted by Turbo 3
Bryan, what size oil restrictor do you advise as I am running a 0.065" and am having major oil consumption issues myself (not your turbo) and I'm trying to track down why the car is smoking so bad with new engine/turbo setup, especially at idle and upshifting...basically when there is high vacuum is when it smokes the worst. Under load and acceleration there is a little but not much. When I mean smoke I mean like going through 1 quart every 30 miles of oil kind of smoke...it's a huge thick fog
Trying to proceed that it is not the motor at this point to rule out external issues. There is no OMP and injector bungs are sealed off. There are no oil leaks outside the engine either. I also checked EGT probes (one in each header and post turbo, as well as O2 sensor and they are all really nice chocolate brown color). Spark plugs are caked with black from new map which is really rich in gas...this was expected, however, due to the map being rich.
I did try running with no restrictor and it was even worse than now and the line is a 5/16" feed with a 1/2" ID dump/ oil return.
I also do not have a oil catch can but one has been ordered and on the way. The turbo is a T-76 0.72 compressor with TO4E 1.32 turbine (for a 20B that's why so big).
Help!
Trying to proceed that it is not the motor at this point to rule out external issues. There is no OMP and injector bungs are sealed off. There are no oil leaks outside the engine either. I also checked EGT probes (one in each header and post turbo, as well as O2 sensor and they are all really nice chocolate brown color). Spark plugs are caked with black from new map which is really rich in gas...this was expected, however, due to the map being rich.
I did try running with no restrictor and it was even worse than now and the line is a 5/16" feed with a 1/2" ID dump/ oil return.
I also do not have a oil catch can but one has been ordered and on the way. The turbo is a T-76 0.72 compressor with TO4E 1.32 turbine (for a 20B that's why so big).
Help!
You need to make sure that the oil drain is sloped down that way the oil is gravity fed into the pan. Also make sure there is a shield guarding the oil that slings off your oil pump driven chain inside your front cover. That can cause problems with draining of oil coming from the turbo if the shield isn't installed.
Also crank case ventilation is the most important thing. I would run any nipple that vents the crankcase to the turbo inlet duct or exhaust. This provides constant vacume and helps oil drain from the turbo signifigantly.
If you have the turbo and manifold off, clock your pully at TDC and let it set for a little bit. Take a flashlight and peak inside the exhaust ports for oil puddling while you turn the crankshaft clockwise, you will see a puddle if it leaks oil inside the engine. Same thing goes for water.
To me it sounds like you either need a vent to your crank case or your turbine seal is collapsed and not sealing. Thats about it!
Bryan@BNR
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#8
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Good call, I hear anywhere from 0.1 all the way to 0.125" but there seems to be many different opinions on the size to run. It is indeed a large shaft with 360 thrust bearing.
The oil drain pipe is sloped just fine but I do not know about the oil pump...would have to take the front cover off and I'm not willing to go that far at this time.
I don't have the turbo or manifold off. Wanted to pull the intake filter completely off as well as install the oil catch can first and then fire the car to see what happens.
When you refer to using a flashlight to inspect the exhaust ports; what are you saying is causing the leaking of oil? Oil pump?
Also, on the catch can, what size nipple/hose should be run? I purchased a Greddy catch can so should I just use the same size fittings that are already on there for both lengths of hose and ID fitting size to the oil filler neck? I'd like to use the oil filler neck as well since it already has a fitting on it (3/8" ID I believe or close) and I wouldn't have to tap that side of the motor.
Thanks much for your help with this Bryan.
The oil drain pipe is sloped just fine but I do not know about the oil pump...would have to take the front cover off and I'm not willing to go that far at this time.
I don't have the turbo or manifold off. Wanted to pull the intake filter completely off as well as install the oil catch can first and then fire the car to see what happens.
When you refer to using a flashlight to inspect the exhaust ports; what are you saying is causing the leaking of oil? Oil pump?
Also, on the catch can, what size nipple/hose should be run? I purchased a Greddy catch can so should I just use the same size fittings that are already on there for both lengths of hose and ID fitting size to the oil filler neck? I'd like to use the oil filler neck as well since it already has a fitting on it (3/8" ID I believe or close) and I wouldn't have to tap that side of the motor.
Thanks much for your help with this Bryan.
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