Newly installed TO4B smoking...?
#1
Newly installed TO4B smoking...?
I just installed a brand new garrett to4b with a 4an ss oil feed line and 12an ss oil drain return. I know the return line is suppose to be directed with the flow of gravity downward but my manifold made the turbo oil return flange lower than the place its suppose to mate to on the block and I had to route it up. The pics show what im talking about. Would this cause my turbo to smoke? When I fired her up for the first time, smoke was seeping out of the compressor bolts at idle. I didnt notice any oil leakage but I didnt drive anywhere either. Could this be the culprit or do I just need a restrictor because the oil pressure is too high thus causing the smoke? Or maybe its just because the turbo is new and needs to break in. I just dont want to blow the seals and create more problems than I already have. Any advice?
#2
NASA geek
iTrader: (2)
Your problem is your oil return is lower then its suppossed to be. ITS GRAVITY DRAINED AND NEEDS TO ALWAYS GO DOWN HILL. Your problem comes from running a on-center turbine housing. You ned to run a tangicle and your problems of smoking will stop. Now you have the problem of re-plumbing your downpipe, turbo inlet pipe, intercooler/turbo disscharge pipe, and possibly water and oil lines too. The turbine housing not only is causing you to have firmit problems, but it will also hold you back on power and slow your spool when compaired to a standard tangicle turbine housing.
~Mike..........
~Mike..........
#7
something custom with a rb flange. not to disregard anything said, anyone know if there's anything i can do at all other than switching out for a tangicle housing for now? i dont think i have to money to re-fab everything again right now and i just wanna have it ok to run for the time being. maybe rotate the housing a little..? does the drain have to be at the lowest point of the housing? any advice would be cool. thanks
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#10
NASA geek
iTrader: (2)
So, your willing to skip paying for a $100~200 turbine housing....... Go through a **** LOAD of hastle finding, buying, making a different turbo manifold.... which will make you have to REPLUMB EVERY THING OVER AGAIN (all your lines, exhaust, intake etc) to avoid simply swapping out turbine housings? In all reality, changing turbine housings, you'll probly only need to tweak your down pipe. Your turbo inlet pipe and turbo to itercooler pipe should still be fine, little tweak if any. Your lines should be fine. Simple.. just get another turbine housing.
~Mike....................
~Mike....................
#11
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If I am not mistaken, isn't the oil return line going into the front cover? Couldn't he just replumb that into the oil pan (above the oil level)? It would take some fabrication, but not that much.
Also I have heard of people running an oil catch can with a small pump to get the oil back to the motor.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Also I have heard of people running an oil catch can with a small pump to get the oil back to the motor.
Just a couple of thoughts.
#12
NASA geek
iTrader: (2)
Wow, people, lets use common sense here. I'll go ahead and boil it down real simple.
Options:
#1. Get a tang turbine housing, price ranges from $30 used to maybe $250 new. Re- fab down pipe $40 local redneck muffler shop, or $0.00 if you’re handy and have a welder. $100 for flange kit.
#2. Get another manifold, ohh wait, this wont freakin work because all manifolds are made for TANG HOUSINGS (HKS, GReedy, Turbo XS, etc etc). One of the premade options that work, those garbage designed cheap eBay 3rd Gen turbo manifolds from SSAutoShit. They work on 2nd gens running the inferior garbage on-center turbine housings. $130. But then it needs to be machined because the flanges are warped. Or, get one of those beautiful manifolds from 1Revving7, but wait, $1200~2000. Well, you could probly build one for $100 worth of material, if your hndy. So after you build/buy another manifold then you need to re-fab not only your down pipe, but your turbo to intercooler, and turbo inlet duct too as well. Well damn, your turbo is higher and far forward now..... Now the oil supply and drain don’t fit, ****, there goes $150 in AN lines gone.
#3. Remove oil pan (OHH MY GOD... WOW, WHAT A PAIN IN THE *** THAT WILL BE!!!) Drill hole, weld in a threaded bung, re-install, or you can be lazy and risk your engine by drilling it while its still installed and welding on a tube that crappy rubber line will slip over. Your risking metal shavings in your oil and burned carbonized oil (from welding) being in there to contaminate too.
#4. Go out and buy your self a $200 pump, wire it up, waste another $60 in AN fittings (or throw away what you have and get some cheap *** crappy rubber tubing) plumb it in and go boosting. When your car smokes, you'll know that your pump failed.
Seriously, just get a tang turbine housing and do it the correct way (which just happens to be the simplistic and most reliable, not to mention will SPOOL FASTER AND MAKE MORE POWER then any of the other not so smart options).
~Mike..............
Options:
#1. Get a tang turbine housing, price ranges from $30 used to maybe $250 new. Re- fab down pipe $40 local redneck muffler shop, or $0.00 if you’re handy and have a welder. $100 for flange kit.
#2. Get another manifold, ohh wait, this wont freakin work because all manifolds are made for TANG HOUSINGS (HKS, GReedy, Turbo XS, etc etc). One of the premade options that work, those garbage designed cheap eBay 3rd Gen turbo manifolds from SSAutoShit. They work on 2nd gens running the inferior garbage on-center turbine housings. $130. But then it needs to be machined because the flanges are warped. Or, get one of those beautiful manifolds from 1Revving7, but wait, $1200~2000. Well, you could probly build one for $100 worth of material, if your hndy. So after you build/buy another manifold then you need to re-fab not only your down pipe, but your turbo to intercooler, and turbo inlet duct too as well. Well damn, your turbo is higher and far forward now..... Now the oil supply and drain don’t fit, ****, there goes $150 in AN lines gone.
#3. Remove oil pan (OHH MY GOD... WOW, WHAT A PAIN IN THE *** THAT WILL BE!!!) Drill hole, weld in a threaded bung, re-install, or you can be lazy and risk your engine by drilling it while its still installed and welding on a tube that crappy rubber line will slip over. Your risking metal shavings in your oil and burned carbonized oil (from welding) being in there to contaminate too.
#4. Go out and buy your self a $200 pump, wire it up, waste another $60 in AN fittings (or throw away what you have and get some cheap *** crappy rubber tubing) plumb it in and go boosting. When your car smokes, you'll know that your pump failed.
Seriously, just get a tang turbine housing and do it the correct way (which just happens to be the simplistic and most reliable, not to mention will SPOOL FASTER AND MAKE MORE POWER then any of the other not so smart options).
~Mike..............
Last edited by RacerXtreme7; 01-30-07 at 01:14 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Originally Posted by FCforMe
guess you guys did all the research for me. thanks for the info, esp mike. i really do appreciate it and ill get that tang housing like you guys said. sounds better to me now, ill start searching around.
IMO you wont get enough hight even with another tang housing unless you change your oil return also.
I would suggest make another manifold thats much higher.
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