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I've run two hoses from the two nipples on the outlet of the front turbo to a brass "T" then run hose to the input №1 on the boost controller. The output of the boost controller №2 I've run to a brass "T" then run two hoses from the T to each actuator. Capped the extra nipples on the both actuators and referred lines.
Connected with T to manual boost gauge:
Installed filter:
At idle I see -8 (on manual boost gauge -16-17), on OFF mode 3rd gear pull to 7000-8000rpm I saw 12.1psi peak.
Then i decided to reassembly by these schemes, using 1 capped T, because I didnt have a hose with a propper lenght:
At idle I saw -9 (on manual boost gauge -16-17), on OFF mode 3rd gear pull to 7000rpm I saw 10.1psi peak.
It holds 7-7.5 psi till 4500rpm and then raise.
Maybe I've connected wrong? What should I check? №3 output from the solenoid should be vented? Overlong hoses? Wrong direction of the air filter? Power loss from control unit and solenoid?
As I know it should keep about 7psi on OFF mode all the time.
1997 JDM
Mods list:
Pettit intake
3" all DP, MP, CB
PFC with base map Ported wastegate
I also tried Loboost mode with all "0", results are the same.
I bought this EBC used from Japan in great condition, but I am startind to thinks its broken)
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by 24seven_dada; 09-07-15 at 01:38 AM.
are you trying to raise boost or lower it?
You cant go lower than the stock boost levels..only higher. (Stock wastegate spring is about 7psi, so your probably boosting 7psi then creeping )
Assuming you have a stock rx7 without flow improving mods (other than a downpipe) hooking up the boost controller via version one should yield 10-12 psi primary turbo, 7 psi parallel operation with the controller off. Version two will should yield 7-5-7 boost pattern with the controller off. Version one has the stock ECU maintaining closed loop control of the primary turbo while the boost controller controls parallel operation.
When you say you have -9 or -8, I'm assuming you mean you vacuum in inHg. That it awfully low which suggests a vacuum leak. Is the idle ok?
I do not own a profec boost controller but from the looks of it, the little black box that says Greddy is a boost sensor. This is where the controller receives its feedback signal and can control accordingly. This sensor should be plumbed the top port of your solenoid. (According to your picture). Looking at the front of the primary turbo, there is a two-nipple vacuum/boost manifold that supplies pressure to the wastegate and precontrol actuators. That is the "existing source" image displayed in the "version one/version two" diagrams. Using the "twin turbo vehicles" diagram it would be the "turbo compressor pressure sources". The other end of the solenoid should be plumbed to either the wastegate or both the wastegate and precontrol actuators. This all depends on how you plan on setting up your boost controller. Do you want the boost controller to maintain control of primary and parallel or just parallel?
are you trying to raise boost or lower it?
You cant go lower than the stock boost levels..only higher. (Stock wastegate spring is about 7psi, so your probably boosting 7psi then creeping )
I had problem with boost spiking: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...creep-1084644/
Since that, I ported the wastegate and bought this EBC.
Now, I want to make 10psi as stock, while I am on PFC base map, and later tune PFC and boost control to 12psi max.
"probably boosting 7psi then creeping" - is it possible to creep with ported wastegate and OFF mode? I thought I should get stable 7psi on OFF mode in 3rd gear pull to 7000-8000rpm.
Assuming you have a stock rx7 without flow improving mods (other than a downpipe) hooking up the boost controller via version one should yield 10-12 psi primary turbo, 7 psi parallel operation with the controller off. Version two will should yield 7-5-7 boost pattern with the controller off. Version one has the stock ECU maintaining closed loop control of the primary turbo while the boost controller controls parallel operation.
When you say you have -9 or -8, I'm assuming you mean you vacuum in inHg. That it awfully low which suggests a vacuum leak. Is the idle ok?
I do not own a profec boost controller but from the looks of it, the little black box that says Greddy is a boost sensor. This is where the controller receives its feedback signal and can control accordingly. This sensor should be plumbed the top port of your solenoid. (According to your picture). Looking at the front of the primary turbo, there is a two-nipple vacuum/boost manifold that supplies pressure to the wastegate and precontrol actuators. That is the "existing source" image displayed in the "version one/version two" diagrams. Using the "twin turbo vehicles" diagram it would be the "turbo compressor pressure sources". The other end of the solenoid should be plumbed to either the wastegate or both the wastegate and precontrol actuators. This all depends on how you plan on setting up your boost controller. Do you want the boost controller to maintain control of primary and parallel or just parallel?
More details are required
Matt
Flow improving mods: 3" DP, 3"MP, 3"CB, and Pettit Intake.
-8 -9 vacuum at idle and on the EBC screen and -16 on manual boost gauge screen.
Idle stable 780-820, rich AFR at idle 11.5-12(with airpump disconnected).
As I know little black box that says Greddy should be connected to boost source at UIM, I used "T" and connected to manual boost gauge line.
Manual boost gauge and EBC screen show different numbers at idle, but peaks at 3rd gear pull are almost equal.
"This sensor should be plumbed the top port of your solenoid."
This way?
Do you want the boost controller to maintain control of primary and parallel or just parallel?
I'am not sure, but primary and parallel.
Flow improving mods: 3" DP, 3"MP, 3"CB, and Pettit Intake.
-8 -9 vacuum at idle and on the EBC screen and -16 on manual boost gauge screen.
Idle stable 780-820, rich AFR at idle 11.5-12(with airpump disconnected).
As I know little black box that says Greddy should be connected to boost source at UIM, I used "T" and connected to manual boost gauge line.
Manual boost gauge and EBC screen show different numbers at idle, but peaks at 3rd gear pull are almost equal.
"This sensor should be plumbed the top port of your solenoid."
This way?
Do you want the boost controller to maintain control of primary and parallel or just parallel?
I'am not sure, but primary and parallel.
Disregard about what I said about plumbing the sensor to the port on the boost solenoid. I was a little tired when I was writing that :P. I see now that it's the harness and not a vacuum line in the diagram.
The boost sensor should indeed be plumbed to the UIM post throttle body. However, it's strange that you're seeing different numbers on the manual boost gauge and the EBC. You should be seeing the same, especially if they're T'd together. You do have a lot of flow mods but porting the wastegate should quell any creep issues. Now that I understand your set up better, I believe you should plumb your EBC using the version in which the EBC controls both precontrol and wastegate. A PFC/stock ECU control boost based on set duty whereas an EBC like this will control based on feedback.
I have N3C1 turbo, I dont see pill/restrictors in hoses from turbo compressor sources, I read that the restrictors are built into the N3C1 turbos and I need to drill them out for proper EBC use.
How can I drill them?
Or should I remove the nipple entirely, drill and tap the hole it was in for 1/8" NPT, and screw in a brass fitting with 1 nipple and use Version 2 of the EBC install? This way a little bit complicated cause turbos are already installed after porting the wastegate )
Last edited by 24seven_dada; 09-07-15 at 07:46 AM.
Yep, the N3C1 turbos have the restrictors built-in to the nipples. The best way is to remove that fitting entirely (it's just a press fit) and drill/tap for 1/8" NPT and put in a brass hose barb. But, to do that the turbos need to be out of the car.
To do it on the car, I would just drill out the restrictor pills. Remove the Y-pipe, stuff a rag in the primary turbo outlet, find a drill bit that will slip into the 2 nipples, and drill it out. Make sure to clean up any debris.
This may not be the whole problem, but it's not helping things for sure.
Also, in one of your pictures the vacuum line going to the upper intake manifold has a plastic T. I NEVER use plastic T's - they will FAIL from heat over time. Get a brass T.
Having the pills in the nipples will definitely cause issues with the controller properly controlling boost, however I agree with Dale; it may not be the entire issue. DEFINITELY replace the plastic T with a brass one. If that T fails and you loose signal to the controller, it can easily spell death for your motor.
I feel if you can get the boost signal on the controller to read proper vacuum at idle (-16,-18 or so) then I think it will also do a better job of controlling things. Version two is how I would plumb the controller.
Yep, the N3C1 turbos have the restrictors built-in to the nipples. The best way is to remove that fitting entirely (it's just a press fit) and drill/tap for 1/8" NPT and put in a brass hose barb. But, to do that the turbos need to be out of the car.
To do it on the car, I would just drill out the restrictor pills. Remove the Y-pipe, stuff a rag in the primary turbo outlet, find a drill bit that will slip into the 2 nipples, and drill it out. Make sure to clean up any debris.
This may not be the whole problem, but it's not helping things for sure.
Also, in one of your pictures the vacuum line going to the upper intake manifold has a plastic T. I NEVER use plastic T's - they will FAIL from heat over time. Get a brass T.
Dale
Thanks! Will get thay small drill and try to drill out. Will replace the plastic T.
Having the pills in the nipples will definitely cause issues with the controller properly controlling boost, however I agree with Dale; it may not be the entire issue. DEFINITELY replace the plastic T with a brass one. If that T fails and you loose signal to the controller, it can easily spell death for your motor.
I feel if you can get the boost signal on the controller to read proper vacuum at idle (-16,-18 or so) then I think it will also do a better job of controlling things. Version two is how I would plumb the controller.
Matt
Thanks! I like your idea about equal signals of vacuum. I did not know proper vacuum at idle and now I'll aim to -16-18. Will check hoses, threads on solenoid, eliminate plastic T from my scheme and connect controller directly to UIM, replace air filter in another direction. Hope it will help
Having the pills in the nipples will definitely cause issues with the controller properly controlling boost, however I agree with Dale; it may not be the entire issue. DEFINITELY replace the plastic T with a brass one. If that T fails and you loose signal to the controller, it can easily spell death for your motor.
I feel if you can get the boost signal on the controller to read proper vacuum at idle (-16,-18 or so) then I think it will also do a better job of controlling things. Version two is how I would plumb the controller.
Matt
Matt, I've eliminated plastic T, connected control "black box" directly to UIM and with/without airfilter it shows about -8 -8.3 vacuum at stable idle 780rpm. Tried different hoses: 3mm, 4mm, results are the same.
If I connect manual boost gauge (AEM Failsafe), to the same nipple on the UIM I see stable -16 vacuum at idle.
What do You think? Maybe I got faulty controller? Are You sure that vacuum at idle should be -16?
Unscrewed 4 bolts on "black box" to look inside, everything looks fine.
I have no idea how to get the boost signal on the controller to read proper vacuum at idle.
Last edited by 24seven_dada; 09-07-15 at 01:13 PM.
My European friend, you are running into our stupid American measurement system.
Remember that psi and inches of mercury are different. About 2 inches of mercury to 1 psi. This is why I just use kpa whenever possible. -8psi is -16 inches Mercury.
I agree you should drill out he orifice in the compressor housing, but don't be surprised if you still have slight creep. Even a ported waste gate can't always bypass all that exhaust when you have an open exhaust.
My European friend, you are running into our stupid American measurement system.
Remember that psi and inches of mercury are different. About 2 inches of mercury to 1 psi. This is why I just use kpa whenever possible. -8psi is -16 inches Mercury.
I agree you should drill out he orifice in the compressor housing, but don't be surprised if you still have slight creep. Even a ported waste gate can't always bypass all that exhaust when you have an open exhaust.
YOU MADE MY DAY!!!
I changed Profec setting to Kpa and it showed -60kpa at idle.
I changed Aem Failsafe to Bar and it showed -0.6 Bar at idle.
So the EBC is OK.
Now I will drill out both orifice in the compressor housing and reassembly EBC with Version2, using only brass T.
Good day and sorry for the bump on an old thread. I too have a 97 FD3s and Im trying to install the new Greddy Profec EBC.
I want to make sure i have this correct as I attempt to go the "version 2" route. I am to take the vacuum lines from both actuators and "T them" to go into the ebc solenoid at the number 1 port. Next I am to connect a vacuum from number 3 port to another T. Those two vacuum lines coming off of the T are to then go to wastegate control and turbo pre control solenoids. Then cap off the 2 Solenoids?
Just route the WG to the boost controller. You don't want both the WG and Precontrol Actuators using the same pressure source. They are operate independently.
Just route the WG to the boost controller. You don't want both the WG and Precontrol Actuators using the same pressure source. They are operate independently.
You mention that they are operated independently... I'm assuming meaning for a sequential twin turbo setup, but what about non-sequential setup?
My twin turbos are non-sequential... that's why I'm asking should I install like Version 2 - T off of both WG and Precontrol Actuators using the same pressure source since I'm running Non-Sequential? Or is there no difference?
09-06-15, 04:57 PM
