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Sorry dude you are so wrong about gas in hot oil! My PCV system is removed. I use a catch can.
If you use a vented catch can and properly removed the PCV system, the crankcase is already open to the atmosphere. Removing the dipstick and oil cap does nothing. Regardless of what is going on, it is happening anyway.
If there is that much fuel in your oil (probably not) you have other problems.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 02-07-16 at 12:46 PM.
Be careful not running a Tstat, it's a good way of blowing an oil cooler when trying to force cold viscous oil at high pressure, the bypass prevents this from happening
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
You don't need a thermostat if you don't mind tossing in a piece of cardboard.
I tossed around the idea of a bypass T-stat for dual 30 row setup on 20b, and said the hell with it. Too many extra fittings that can leak for a car that isn't a daily driver. All you have to do is watch your oil temp and make sure the car is nice as warm before you beat it up. A piece of cardboard did me fine, over the first cooler in the series! Never saw oil temps under 170F, they only dropped when hitting the interstate. And changing the oil every 1500 miles or less, from gas-dilution, ensures that you don't have too much moisture build-up from running too cold.
I live in Alabama though, weather never drops below 25F or so.
You'd have to do before and after tests with a bunch of sensors/thermocouples to actually know. So I don't have any hard numbers, just my own reasoning.
I'm going to hypothesize that spraying cold oil inside the hollow/ribbed portion of a cold rotor slows down warming of the oil by transferring heat from the oil to the metal. The [admittedly unproveable] reasoning is that the oil would heat up faster from friction than the inner cast iron ribbed structure of the rotor transfers heat from the combustion chamber bathtub. If the oil heats up faster than the rotor ribbing, at any given time the oil would be equal temperature or hotter, and heat would tend to flow from the oil to the rotor.
The underlying sources of heat are the waste heat from combustion and the friction of moving parts in contact with the oil, primarily the bearings. That combustion heat has to transfer first from the air, then to the surface of the rotor, then through the iron structure of the rotor, and then to the oil as it makes contact. The waste heat from the combustion gases transfers to the aluminum rotor housings more easily, and then transfers to the axially flowing coolant through the water jacket. Aluminum in general heats up and cools down faster than iron.
Oil naturally heats up from the movement of an engine squeezing it through bearings. I know from my own experience running engines on engine dynos with electric motors. For the 99% of you with no experience doing that, think of a starter motor that can spin the engine to thousands of rpm. The oil will naturally heat up on its own from friction, even with the engine not firing.
Take that heat and put it in contact with a cold iron surface with a lot of thermal inertia and the heat will naturally flow from the oil to the rotor rather than vice versa.
That being said, if the engine is running really hot, the heat from the rotor will transfer into the oil sprayed from the jet. That's how oil jets work in the first place. It's the same with piston cooling jets, which spray on the underside of the piston crown. So the oil carries the heat away, and hopefully it reduces hot spots in the combustion chamber and the risk of preignition or knock. Piston engines also use thermostats for their piston squirters, and on some engine they are ECU controlled by a solenoid, rather than using a simple wax thermostat like a rotary.
Anyway, that's my $0.02 . The eshaft thermostat is there for a reason, that's all. Naturally they do fail after so many years, and you wouldn't want one stuck closed because then you won't have oil cooling your rotors. It's been a while since I've checked, but I think you can still get replacements from Mazda for under $100.
I am using an inline oil thermostat from Improved Racing. Certainly does the job at keeping the oil temps up. Before this oil temps were always incredibly low under almost all condition except for the hot summer days. Pics are with v-mount removed.
I am using an inline oil thermostat from Improved Racing. Certainly does the job at keeping the oil temps up. Before this oil temps were always incredibly low under almost all condition except for the hot summer days. Pics are with v-mount removed.
Has it made any difference on cooling that you know of?
I am still running without a thermostat. My original setup was a dual from Pettit with no thermostat. I blew 2 coolers, but not sure if it was from no thermostat. They both did blow while everything was cold. I think it was from super cheap ebay china made oil coolers. (Of course I never would have went with pettit if I knew that is what I was being supplied with).
I have very rarely gone over 200°...., but I am not driving the car hard at all. They also are not ducted. I dunno why, but after I had the new engine put in the coolers had to be re hung properly on brackets the ducting was not reinstalled. This could be the biggest issue, but I still am interested in a thermostat. My "upgraded" water pump and Koyo NFLo are keeping this thing very cool so far. I am extremely pleased, but would probably be even more impressed I could get these oil temps down 20° and take more strain off the water.
Hey Tom. I am not sure if you remember, but I planned on breaking in with Dino and then switching to Idemitsu. Well, I recieved an email back from Idemitsu that will make me stick with dino. DAMNIT!!!!!
I will stick with my Castrol as I already have about 40 qts and plan on changing every 1k. Let's not get into that lol
Sorry all just want to confirm the thermostat can help keep my temp lower. I DO NOT want to hijack this thread with oil lol.
Sorry all just want to confirm the thermostat can help keep my temp lower. I DO NOT want to hijack this thread with oil lol.
In my car, no thermostat meant lower oil temps, specially in cold weather. My current setup, even with a thermostat, oil temps are colder in cold weather (but not nearly as cold as without it)
I was collecting data and found this illustration better describes how the bypass valve works.
An eccentric shaft bypass valve has been adopted to shorten the engine warm up period. The eccentric shaft bypass valve allows engine oil in the oil passage to escape at cold-engine start, maintaining a pressure in the eccentric shaft that prohibits injection of rotor cooling engine oil from the oil jet plugs until the engine is warmed up.
02-07-16, 12:43 PM
