I just recently put i a gauge to meter my oil temps and was wondering what temperatures you guys are seeing during normal driving, on a road course and so on?

I'm running dual Mocal 15 Row oil coolers. I just wanted to make sure the system is working.


Any body seeing major pressure drops with these types of setups?


Aldo

 

^i am interested to know this too, why dont u post the temperatures that your seing? you start the thread and dont post your results? wtf?

my oil temps would range anywhere from 200f-235f depending on the way the car was being driven. water temps would remain pretty steady in the 180f-190f range under the same conditions. I am running only one stock oil cooler and am in the process of upgrading

 

Mine is about the same. Sometimes pushing 240F. My concern is that I don't feel the oil coolers are getting very hot. What I mean is that the only part that gets warm is the bottom. I feel like the oil is not circulating through the whole oil cooler.

I hope the system is full of oil.

Aldo

 

240f, thats getting up there for having 2 aftermarket coolers, do u have a thermostat in your system? maybe it is sticking, where is your sensor for the oil temp located?

what kind of water temps are you experiencing when your seeing oil temps @ 240f?

 

200F steady oil temp last weekend (nice a cool 70's) at the track with R1 dual coolers. It'll climb way above that just sitting idling in traffic though.

 

Yeh 240f seems a little high. My Type R with standard twin oil coolers sits on 185f through normal driving , water temps are 180f.

Bob ( UK )

 

My coolant temps are 180 dead on.

I have an Oil pedestal where my sensing unit is located. I can't remember the flow path. I would expect the oil is coming out of the oil coolers and into the filter housing. What is really weird was that when I first intalled it, It registered around 180 and it would drop considerably when in motion (obviously due to the air passing through the coolers) Then all of the sudder in started reading in the 230F. This is not even pushing the car hard.

I wonder if the thermostat is not working correctly.

Aldo

 

Are your oil coolers ducted?

 

At an autox last in August with 90f ambient temps:

Oil and water would both get up to 210, and then cool off.

Autox in hot weather is fairly extreme, as the temps climb while running for ~1 minutes, and then you stop the car.

Haven't yet done a track day with the new setup. Driving to an event in July the temps stayed pretty low. It's rarely driven the road, so I don't know what the temps would normally be like.

At an autox last weekend (cold and rainy) I would have to idle the car at about 2k to warm up the oil.

Cooling is a Koyo rad in a vmount setup, and 2 ducted 19 row Mocal coolers.

 

^^ so i take it your not running a thermostat then? how much is a thermostat actually gonna help at idle since there is no air flow through the intercoolers?

 

..

 

30 degree celcius in traffic = 100C oil temp, 110C when boostin and 3k+ constant rpm

20C weather in traffic = 90C oil temp, 100 when boostin...
im runnin 93 stock oil cooler with 500 bent fins ( tryin to unbent 1 by 1 with a flat head screw driver does not work especially without takin out the oil cooler)

 

There is a thermostat, though it is a modified Tstat from Mazmart - it opens at a lower than stock temp ( I can't recall the temp at the moment)

The water pump is also from mazmart - it works quite a bit better than the stock unit.

The rad is a Koyo modified to be a dual pass rad in vmount config.

I've gone to quite a bit of effort to keep this car cool.

 

What is your oil pressure in those temps/conditions? What oil are you running?

According to a few old-school rotary racers, there are not really any problems that arise from running (what would typically be considered 'too cold' in a piston engine) low oil temps. If the water is up to temp, these engines can be pushed hard with low oil temps with no problems. In terms of fuel dilution and 'burning off' water vapors when oil temps are above 212*F, it's better to run heavier weight oil (like 20W-50) which have a higher film strength and change it more regularly.

If this is a street-only car, you could run lighter weight oil and block off your coolers to have the oil above 212*F under normal conditions, but oil is a huge part of the cooling of a rotary (vs a piston engine) and that will just make it more difficult to keep the water temps down and the engine happy when pushing it. But then you could quickly remove the blockoff plates when driving the car hard.