What internal engine modifications do i need to hold 450whp and up? I just rebuilt my entire engine with 2mm rotary aviation seals, new oil rings, bearings, everything. I just streetported with a mazdatrix port and just dowel it. what else can be done inside the engine to hold power?

 

depending on what boost levels you are planning on running I would seriously consider different apex seals. I'm not sure how north of 450 you are looking at but either super seals, nls, als, etc... would do the trick.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ra_super_seals.htm

 

ok. i want aprox 400whp but in the future i may shoot for 550whp at most. Besides doweling, what else can be done to be the engine? i believe that the Rotary aviation classic seal can hold that power. ARe there stronger rotors? better housing plates? anything?

 

looking at most 25-30psi

 

What turbo? Depending on your CFM, you will make that at much less than 25 psi.

Your engine sounds like its ready to go, just make sure you have the necessary fuel and air cooling to make that power.

 

Get the rotating assembly balanced and buy a good water/meth injection kit (like FJO) it'll do wonders for reliability/safety for your motor.

 

Im happy with my factory balanced engine.


Makes 550rwhp. It dowelled and has ra seals.
What you have mate is good for alot more to.

Your combo(with different ports) i have seen make over 1000bhp.
Dont waste your time with much else. People seem to be coming up with new ways to make rotary engines more expensive to rebuild everyday.........

 

im still debating if dowel pinning is really a necessity for a big power 13B

 

A proper tune and supporting mods are probley as important or more important than whats in the engine!

 

we are not talking about tune. WE ARE TALKING ABOUT ENGINE.

Lets just say dowelling is cheaper then a retention Kit+cracked plate+headache.

 

13B-REW does not require bullshit dowels or pins above what is there from factory.

NO POWER LEVEL warrants it

 

No ^ anyone with a brain will tell you that

May sound harsh but its true, some people just love wasting money and turning a good engine into **** with leaking stud kits and infinite stress raising extra dowels

Don't believe the hype.

 

you can switch from tension bolts to studs. If I had the money I would have done that. but what's this about them causing leaks?

 

^ Like I said great way to turn a good engine into a water leaking heap of crap

100% not necessary at any level, and that has been proven many times over, some big name shops found this out by accident and now they DO NOT WASTE MONEY ANY MORE ON THIS CRAP

 

Nice "add on sale" though if you have the invested machinery or get a kick back from the service provider ............

 

it is a threaded stud, the nut to tighten it sits against a cut thread! you need to use copious amounts of sealant on this thread and pray you do not get a leak on the 18 or so studs......... it really is a **** system so far as sealing integrity.

the amount of clearance needed over so many different hole locations means that *if you are lucky* only 1/4 of them are doing anything at any one time, but the biggest EPIC FAIL of the whole cocked up system is it imparts an immense amount on inherent stress onto the side plates which is why they crack so easily in normal service something no stock 13B-REW will do at 800rwhp

The conventional bolt has a smooth raised shoulder that the sealing rubber sits onto to provide a perfect water tight seal without the need for a silicone gun and praying beads

 

Peter,

What is the highest power you have seen on a undoweled/unstudded motor?

 

Peter said over 1000bhp

He told me of a classic of one shop he delt with who detonated a race engine in their 7 second drag car and they slapped together a new motor with no extra studs and fixed the ignition issue......... tuned the car again (no failures) and then ran the whole meeting on that engine and ran fastest they ever did! and the motor was perfect ! Since then NOT ONE ENGINE has ever been sent away to be butchered again

Sometimes people will not believe unless they do it/see it themselves

 

I wouldn't spend the money pinning the motor at that power level, but I would recommend some oil and coolant passage mods.

 

Here is a little info on said mods.

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/oiling-system-mods-lots-pics-745594/

 

BDC even agrees that the REW block does NOT need dowels done. The RE block, yes. The REW, no.

 

No offence to peter but were is his 1000bhp 13b to show me that he has done without any supporting mods? OR BDC for that matter?

I use to be a firm believer of no dowelling being required. But after cracking a fair few plates, i got sick of it. All the plates broke when their was a problem in the tune, buti know with my engine, i m always trying new things and their is always a chance that things go wrong, and since i have dowelled my motor, i havnt cracked a single plate even with the same conditions that would have cracked it before.

I am not a believer of the stud kit, i have seen engines split the front plate into 4 or more pieces with the stud kit, same engine dowelled, but back in car and no more cracked front plates. It also can leak water out of the back like peter said. This particular engine dynoed 984bhp, PP turbo gt47r etc .

 

NEVER seen a 13B-REW crack!

 

I was under the inpression that the REW and the RE were the same strength wise. Is that not correct?

 

I got one in my project and it look like the rear dowel area is smaller than the rew.