any hardware should stock them. P-clamps.

 

Found them at Home Depot in the electrical section. Thanks!

 

Heya, sorry for the late post... I bought mine from Summit as those are stainless.

 

I have some v-mount cooling setup info, maybe not necessarily good...

It was about 56 degrees out the other day and I took the car out on the toll road to put some miles on it. Well my water temp at the stock gauge reading location (below the oil pressure sender) the Defi read no more than 65C (150F) after about 40 minutes of driving. I varied the RPMs from 2800 - 4200, light throttle 3rd - 5th gears. The max on the PowerFC at the thermostat was 74C (165F).

The temp will rise to 85C (185F) and the fans will kick on when idling and the temp will come back down, so I know the system is working correctly.

There are a few possible causes:

1. Using Evans with a .9 bar stock cap.
2. I added three 3/16 holes at the bottom of the thermostat for better flow.
3. The v-mount / ducting is "too" efficient...
4. The dual oil coolers are too efficient... (I am using a new 180F tstat)

I think this will be a great setup during the summer, but I'm concerned about the winter driving.

The only thing I think I can really do is put in an unmodified thermostat, and that would suck!

Any other ideas are welcome!

 

sweet!

 

Attila, I was worried about having problems like that on my setup, so I ended up installing a Blitz FMIC

 

the car looks awesome (and even that seems like an understatement!) congrats on all the good work, and please keep us posted on any further progress.

 

Wow. interesting results on the temps. Perhaps you should re-install an unmolested thermostat and re-evaluate. I don't think ducting is as necessary on a vmount setup.

Are you running an AST? I'm running Evans at 0 pressure with no AST.

Also, are you runing an a/c condensor?

If you continue to have problems with the temps, I'll trade you for my FMIC and Koyo.

Glad to hear you got it on the road.

 

Atilla,
It's definitely the drilled T-stat. Replace it with an unmolested T-stat and you will be fine. I know because I have the same "issue." Although I wouldn't call it an issue personally - just winter and summer driving mode). I swap T-stats to the drilled version for summer track sessions around april-may timeframe and back again in october.
HTH,
Crispy

 

not to sound ghetto...but in the winter place duct tape over one of your oil coolers. At least try it to see if it makes a difference before you dig into the t-stat.

 

Attilla... everyone should have problems like excess water cooling capacity!

The T-stat will probably do the trick, but perhaps you'll need to direct more incoming air at the intercooler... I couldn't find a pic indicating whether or not your setup uses a splitter. How did the AIT's look in comparison?

 

Thanks everyone for the info! Rich, I'll trade ya!

I am not running an AST and there's no AC condensor.

I was considering using a 0 psi cap but it will reduce flow (especially with the thicker Evans), and I initially wanted to have the pressure there to make sure all the air is forced out of the system.

As for the ducting, the opening for the intercooler is about 2.5 times as large as the radiator. There is a splitter:



I guess I should have made an adjustable splitter just for this reason!

Thanks Chris for confirming the t-stat; I also just remembered that I drilled out the pintle too! So there's 4 holes.

As far as AIT's, I will check the Datalogit log file, but I can tell you that after the 40 minute drive the entire IC was ice cold (both inlet, outlet, and core), and the elbow and the UIM were also cool to the touch. This is not a real indicator however, as I did not go above 0-2 psi of boost.

I do have a oil temp sender in the oil pedestal, I just need to hook up the digital gauge. That should add a bit more info to the whole story.

 

As a humorous anectodal story the way I figured this out was during a drive to a FATT at Summit Point one spring morning with the drilled t-stat installed. Ambient temps were around 40degrees that morning. I FROZE TO DEATH in the car on that trip. With the drilled T-stat, no matter how hard I flogged the car on the drive to the track I simply COULD NOT get enough heat into the engine/coolant to give me heat for the driver. It just blew cold air. Like you, coolant temp was never enough to even crack the t-stat plunger. It was a LOOONG drive.
Crispy

 

^^ Brrrr.... 40 degree Spring morning, eh?

I didn't get that cold out here all winter.
I'm not missing east coast weather.

 

Just checked the Datalogit log for the 40 minute drive and the air temp (measured from the stock location) never went above 15C (59F).

 

Atihun, sweet setup there my friend. Could I pick you brains bit?

Would you have a list of the parts you used for the fuel setup on the engine? That’s one very clean install.

I went along the same lines of having a splitter, which I removed but may try putting back in for further testing. It's height adjustable (see pic), but I also kept my air con rad and from the front on the left there is an cold air feed for the filter.

Thanks
Fish

 

That's a great setup for the V-mount. I like the way you have the front piece welded in place. I belive the splitter is very important especially if you have the AC condesor in place, and yours looks very functional.

Here's some info on the fuel setup:

KGParts Primary and Secondary fuel rails.
SS braided lines, block Y-splitter.
Aeroquip and Earls fittings to connect lines -6AN and rails 3/8NPT to -6AN.
750 primary injectors (Siemens), 1680cc secondary injectors (Bosch).
FJO low impedance injector driver - eliminates need for resistors.
Aeromotive 1000 Fuel pressure regulator.
Apexi BNR32 Fuel Pump.

The fittings were the ones that were a pain, as I had to buy more than I needed in order to test /change the routing until I got it the way I wanted.

 

1000 mile mark! And it's still runnin....

Fish, I was working on a drawn diagram that has each piece labeled, but I haven't had a chance to finish it. I'll scan it and post it soon.

 

Atihun,

I had a question about your gauge modification. I was looking to get rid of the stock coolant temp gauge and instead put my Aquamist flow sensor gauge in it's place (I have coolant temp on the PFC and oil temp on a Defi Link gauge)...

Do you have any more details about how those guages mounted into the stock locations? This gauge is exactly the right size to fit in there and has a bezel nearly identical to the Defi bezel. What sort of epoxy did you use? Is that the only thing holding the gauge in place?

Remember...immitation is the greatest form of flattery! Glad to hear everything is running great!

 

Farking internet.... just wrote a few paragraphs and the connection crapped out; all deleted.

Anyway, here it is again:

The gauge replacement is fairly easiy. Take apart the dash, remove the gauge front cover, take apart the gauge section. Each gauge comes off with 3 or so screws from the back. Remove the gauges and then remove the printed circuit board.

As far as the gague is concerned, I found the best thing to hold the Defi gagues:



This was a $1.50 piece of ABS plumbing tubing. I walked around Lowes for over an hour looking for something that would work.

It will take a little bit of work to get the gauge to fit; you will have to shave the inside of the white plastic and cut the tubing to size. Then you will have to play with the fitment so it lines up exactly with the hold from the front gauge dash cover.

I used a special epoxy that is for ABS, but next time I do the gauge pod, I will use a plastic welder that I got from Harbor Freight. That will bond the plastic a lot better than the epoxy. If you need some additional information, just email me and I'll help with what I can.

 

hey attila, do you have any info of how you covered the gauge pod with leather? like where you got the leather and the covering process and such?

it looks awesome. i want to do that.

 

Hi!

Got the car tuned / dyno'd on Saturday! I'll post the graph tomorrow.

As far as the dash leather, I got it from Tandy Leather. http://www.tandyleather.com/

There's a store close by so I could go and pick out the leather. You can get a large hide for $50 to $100. You need a thin hide that will stretch.

It took a little bit to figure out how to put the leather on due to the curvature on the pod. Ultimately I had to use a few pieces and used leather contact cement with the edges meeting so you couldn't see any seams. Next time I will have it professionally mounted and sewn on.

 

yeah post that graph up dammit, cant wait

 

384 rwhp / 290 trq

- 16 psi by ~4300 rpm
- conservative tune with 91 pump gas
- max injector duty at 16 psi is at 65%


I'm very happy with the results.

Steve noticed that after 15 psi the power wasn't going up much. This is due to the Knightsports Metallit Cat and the Racing Beat muffler. Even with these the car is loud for me. Steve was like "this car is too quiet!".

Other issue was that neither one of us knew too much about the Blitz boost controller, so it was set to Auto. This allowed for some initial spiking until it learned.

Well, it didn't learn very well because on the way home I didn't drive it hard except for one point. I floored it in 4th, and at 4500 rpm - WHAM! Fuel cut! WTF? I looked at the peak on the boost gauge and it was at 22 psi. I guess Steve did a good job of tuning it and I built the engine fairly well since it didn't grenade. I set the controller to manual and I've got it dialed to 11 psi and slowly working my way up to 16 again. At least with the manual setting it holds exactly where I've set it.

 

very good numbers!! With it being the 35r though i would expect the boost to arrive sooner maybe like ~3800 rpm?