GT35R Here I come! :D
Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
For a setup this good you should be running a computer like Autronic or even the new Wolf !
Hey Attila,
That fuel pressure check is a lot easier when the UIM is off. Just went through it for 2 hours today. Thought I would share that.
Tony
Well hopefully nothing will be leaking!
I don't want to take it all apart now.
Here's some quick pics....

Finally:

And for those that voted to have the mesh painted
:
I don't want to take it all apart now.Here's some quick pics....

Finally:

And for those that voted to have the mesh painted
:
Nice! The car on the ground and the garage getting cleaned up!
Umm, on the choice of models for the pics...can I vote on one that does not look so much like me? Maybe, of the female gender?!
Just kidding ya. When is the day? We need video coverage!
Tony
Umm, on the choice of models for the pics...can I vote on one that does not look so much like me? Maybe, of the female gender?!
Just kidding ya. When is the day? We need video coverage!
Tony
Originally Posted by Asleep
<sigh>
Hey Attila,
Tony
Hey Attila,
Tony
You can sigh all you want , its just my opinion , last time I checked this was a forum and I think getting other peoples opinions is part of what we are all after when we post !.
Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
You can sigh all you want , its just my opinion , last time I checked this was a forum and I think getting other peoples opinions is part of what we are all after when we post !.
So back on thread...is it started yet? Has it? Aren't you just teasing yourself (us) at this point in not starting it?
Yea, the hood will be one of the last things for the car...
So you didn't like my Vanna pose?
I guess I should have shaved my legs!
As for the ecu, I will stick with the PowerFC as I have all the goods for it and it should get me to my 400rwhp goal.
I'm almost done, but I have to go to the store to find some bolts that fit into the rear seats seat belt hole.
Here's what I spent all day ripping apart:


Here's the battery in it's place, used one of Jeff Hoskinson's stainless trays and cut off the ears and used a solid piece of 1x1 1/2 stock under the front to level it out. This thing isn't moving anywhere!


I just need to take a few days off work and get this finished. I've been working extra hours so I don't have a chance to work on the car much. It's killing me too, I want to start the damn thing! If not tomorrow, then should be next weekend.
So you didn't like my Vanna pose?
I guess I should have shaved my legs!As for the ecu, I will stick with the PowerFC as I have all the goods for it and it should get me to my 400rwhp goal.
I'm almost done, but I have to go to the store to find some bolts that fit into the rear seats seat belt hole.
Here's what I spent all day ripping apart:


Here's the battery in it's place, used one of Jeff Hoskinson's stainless trays and cut off the ears and used a solid piece of 1x1 1/2 stock under the front to level it out. This thing isn't moving anywhere!



I just need to take a few days off work and get this finished. I've been working extra hours so I don't have a chance to work on the car much. It's killing me too, I want to start the damn thing! If not tomorrow, then should be next weekend.
Last edited by atihun; Nov 11, 2006 at 10:07 PM.
The core of the IC is 4 inches; it should be sufficient fo 16 to 18 psi.
As for the battery cabling, they're both 1 GA. The ground is about 10 inches and will bolt to a clean area next to the battery. The positive cable has about 10 inches before it goes into a 200 Amp circuit breaker. That should protect me
.
If I can find the bolt I need today, I should at least be able to hook up all the electronics to make sure everything is working properly.
As for the battery cabling, they're both 1 GA. The ground is about 10 inches and will bolt to a clean area next to the battery. The positive cable has about 10 inches before it goes into a 200 Amp circuit breaker. That should protect me
.If I can find the bolt I need today, I should at least be able to hook up all the electronics to make sure everything is working properly.
Originally Posted by atihun
The core of the IC is 4 inches; it should be sufficient fo 16 to 18 psi.
As for the battery cabling, they're both 1 GA. The ground is about 10 inches and will bolt to a clean area next to the battery. The positive cable has about 10 inches before it goes into a 200 Amp circuit breaker. That should protect me
.
If I can find the bolt I need today, I should at least be able to hook up all the electronics to make sure everything is working properly.
As for the battery cabling, they're both 1 GA. The ground is about 10 inches and will bolt to a clean area next to the battery. The positive cable has about 10 inches before it goes into a 200 Amp circuit breaker. That should protect me
.If I can find the bolt I need today, I should at least be able to hook up all the electronics to make sure everything is working properly.
Thanks Andy, however I did a lot of copying from others too! 
As for the grounding for the started, I'm not sure I need it. I finally hooked most of the electrical up temporarily to make sure everything was working, no shorts or smoking wires...
I also filled the oil and cranked the engine about 10 times (~5 seconds each) to get the oil circulating before I start it for the first time. The pressure built up to 30 psi. I had no problems, the battery is still fully charged, and no reduced cranking effort from first to last crank.
It sounded great cranking over, now I just need to load and configure the PowerFC, get the O2 sensor calibrated, setup the idle parameters, etc., and I should be able to fire it up for the first time! YAY!

As for the grounding for the started, I'm not sure I need it. I finally hooked most of the electrical up temporarily to make sure everything was working, no shorts or smoking wires...
I also filled the oil and cranked the engine about 10 times (~5 seconds each) to get the oil circulating before I start it for the first time. The pressure built up to 30 psi. I had no problems, the battery is still fully charged, and no reduced cranking effort from first to last crank.
It sounded great cranking over, now I just need to load and configure the PowerFC, get the O2 sensor calibrated, setup the idle parameters, etc., and I should be able to fire it up for the first time! YAY!
Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
One thing I have learned from relocating my battery is that the single grounding cable from the battery to body isnt enough for a good power supply to the starter , the tumble is really slow and weak , it causes the battery to run down quickly and could cause damage to the starter eventually , since the low supply voltage to the starter would make the amperage climb and this would eventually burn it up , Run another cable from the batterys' negative terminal to one of the starter mounting bolts , this worked great for me .
Tony
Originally Posted by Asleep
I agree with Marcel here. I ran a 1 gauge up to the alternator bracket after having starting issues / ground issues. I ground about the same place with the battery in the passenger side bin. Perhaps your results will be better!
Tony
Tony
It cranks like it did when the battery was in the stock location. There was no degradation of cranking even after the 10th time. 5 seconds each is pretty long, no?
The issue surfaced at the track while running back-to-back runs as the temps creeped up...if that makes any sense. This was about 3 months and 500 miles after moving the battery.
I think the added high stress of the temps heat soaked the starter. I had to replace it and eventually the alternator to get strong starts again. I also found that my single grounding point at the time was suspect (the bolt that attachs the seatbelt). I had taken the passenger seat out for the track and re-connected the ground, but was not getting as good a connection. Since then I have the added ground to alternator bracket and a whole "halo" in the engine compartment connecting back to the battery of ground connections. It seemed to cure some of my ignition systems gremlins at higher RPM, even with the HKS Twinpower.
The Optima held up through the ordeal which I hear is uncanny for a battery in a system with starting and alternator issues. It was draining, but able to hold a charge with a battery charger.
I think the added high stress of the temps heat soaked the starter. I had to replace it and eventually the alternator to get strong starts again. I also found that my single grounding point at the time was suspect (the bolt that attachs the seatbelt). I had taken the passenger seat out for the track and re-connected the ground, but was not getting as good a connection. Since then I have the added ground to alternator bracket and a whole "halo" in the engine compartment connecting back to the battery of ground connections. It seemed to cure some of my ignition systems gremlins at higher RPM, even with the HKS Twinpower.
The Optima held up through the ordeal which I hear is uncanny for a battery in a system with starting and alternator issues. It was draining, but able to hold a charge with a battery charger.
Originally Posted by atihun
Thanks for the clarification... I guess I can add one more thing to the neverending list!
Better now that everything in the cabin is still apart.
Better now that everything in the cabin is still apart.Besides, can you ever have too much "ground?"
Last edited by Asleep; Nov 16, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
I've just spent the last hour reading this thread and i have to say: Atihun your build is single greatest DIY journal i've seen. it makes anything else crap. Good job on everything, your attention to detail and never ending amount of patience is a great example for those wanting to do it themselves.
Sick *** engine bay.
Sick *** engine bay.
Damn it!!
I've been looking at the title of this thread for a Long Long time and I have never even opened until today. I've read every word posted in this thread all the way to here.
I thought for sure the car would be started by the 12th page or so and continued to read lol!!
I think I speak for everyone when I say "Pleeeeeeeeze start the car and keep us posted!"
You have done a great job with it and hope you enjoy every moment with it! Good Luck!
I've been looking at the title of this thread for a Long Long time and I have never even opened until today. I've read every word posted in this thread all the way to here.
I thought for sure the car would be started by the 12th page or so and continued to read lol!!
I think I speak for everyone when I say "Pleeeeeeeeze start the car and keep us posted!"
You have done a great job with it and hope you enjoy every moment with it! Good Luck!
I haven't been home too much to work on it, but things are slowing down a bit. Plus this weekend was my wifes b-day weekend! 
Anyhow, I'm almost done with the electrical in the cabin, just mounting the boxes for the Techedge and Datalogit in the glovebox and routing some wiring.
Here's the only picutre of the dash I got before the camera battery died:

I would say it's a B+. If I were to do it over again, which I probably will, I will leave it with amber and replace the Defi guages. My main concern is if the stock guages will still work after disassembling them.
I haven't started it yet, but I did crank it over several times to circulate some oil. I think I did ok on the electrical as nothing shorted or fried!

Anyhow, I'm almost done with the electrical in the cabin, just mounting the boxes for the Techedge and Datalogit in the glovebox and routing some wiring.
Here's the only picutre of the dash I got before the camera battery died:

I would say it's a B+. If I were to do it over again, which I probably will, I will leave it with amber and replace the Defi guages. My main concern is if the stock guages will still work after disassembling them.
I haven't started it yet, but I did crank it over several times to circulate some oil. I think I did ok on the electrical as nothing shorted or fried!
Last edited by atihun; Nov 27, 2006 at 11:46 AM.


