Sorry about the crosspost, was not getting any response in 3rd gen area...

My all new engine is being assembled and will get a T04E with a goal of ~450RWHP. What internal engine mods are worth the money?
(pulled from Pineapple Racing and Jackson Auto)

hardened stationary gears
dowel pins
Lightened Rotors
Engine Mounts
competition oil seal springs
new oil pump w/chain
high pressure oil regulator
competition main bearings
Rotors competition clearanced
oil passages enlarged
Eccentric Shaft is polished
oil jet modifications
Windage Tray / Pan Baffling
-10 oil lines
Increased Oil Pressure
Oil Pump Cavity Port
Enlarged Oil Passage
Loop Line

Car will see some track use (road racing) and autoX.
What RPM limit is feasable?

Mods:
Racing Beat Springs
GAB Super 8-way Adjustable Shocks
Fikse FM5 17x10 rear 17x8.5 front 3 peice forged aluminum wheels
Yokohama Advan A032R DOT legal race tires, 275x40x17 rear, 235/35/17 front
Crossdrilled brake rotors
Braided stainless steel brake lines
Hawk Blue race pads (front, track only)

Corbeau Forza II competition seat (black)
Sabelt camlock 5pt harness (red)
G-Tech Pro performance meter
Boost Gauge
GReddy Turbo Timer
Autopower Chrome-moly race roll bar

Apex Power FC engine management computer with Commander, tuned by XS Engineering with PowerExel
Random Tech. High Flow Cat.
Mindtrain dual chambered resonated midpipe
Custom Downpipe by South Florida Performance
Custom Manifold by South Florida Performance
4" x 12" K&N Filter
PFS Intercooler
C's short throw shifter
GReddy Sport Catback
Engine fully rebuilt with all new parts, street ported, ribbed water passages.
(2)850cc primary, (2)1300cc secondary fuel injectors
Walbro GS255HP intank fuel pump
Turbonetics T04E 60-1 .7 comp 1.15 A/R P-Trim
TiAl 50mm bloww off valve
GReddy Profec A fuzzy logic boost controller
M2 9.5lbs Flywheel
ACT 30% over HD street/strip clutch
GM 3 Bar MAP sensor
8.5mm Magnecore wires
10.5 NKG plugs
Custom 3" Aluminum IC piping
Optima Red Top battery located behind passenger seat, 0/1 gauge wire to fuel pump.
Fully rebuilt transmission with all new synchros, redline fluids

 

Damn, now that's a list of mods!

 

And I even left out the specs on the audio equipment and exterior mods

 

Jedon, sorry i can't offer any insight as to what internal mods are worth the money, however, i did notice that you replaced the map sensor. I'm also running a Power FC and I would like to be able to run over 17psi(~1.2bar), which i was told was the max for the stock map sensor. But i was told that it was more complicated than just switching out map sensors. Can you tell me what you did? And does GM stand for General Motors? Thanks man! Oh and sounds like quite a car, i would think that 450rwhp shouldn't be too dificult with that list of mods.

 

XS Engineering can remap the PowerFC to use a different MAP sensor.
Yes it's a GM part, $80 or so.
I can't wait to get it all together and working! The engine is at the shop getting built right now.

 

Hmmm... must have been insurance $$$??? Well man good luck, I can't really recomend anything besides making sure you get it right the first time.
Later
Ryker

 

Let me clarify, this is the list of stuff that has NOT been done and is not currently planned unless someone says it's a great idea...

hardened stationary gears
dowel pins
Lightened Rotors
Engine Mounts
competition oil seal springs
new oil pump w/chain
high pressure oil regulator
competition main bearings
Rotors competition clearanced
oil passages enlarged
Eccentric Shaft is polished
oil jet modifications
Windage Tray / Pan Baffling
-10 oil lines
Increased Oil Pressure
Oil Pump Cavity Port
Enlarged Oil Passage
Loop Line

 

my engine has
new oil pump w/chain
high pressure oil regulator

seems like a good idea while its all apart

 

YOU DONT NEED EXTRA DOWELS!!!!!!!!!

 

Pretty much everything you listed is only needed for a high-rpm motor. If you dont have the porting that extends your pwoerband past 8500 rpm, you wont need most of that. The hardened stationary gears and lightweight rotors, especially. The oil system mods would be a good idea, those will generally make your high-hp engine last longer, and run smoother/safer. Dowel pins dont start to become necessary until 650 rwhp. The competition bearings wont be necessary, but would make your engine safer.

 

I agree with "mazdaspeed7" completely.

To answer your question, this is what I would consider...

Engine Mounts
New Oil pump and chain
High Pressure Oil regulator
Windowed Bearings

Anything that will add, control, condition for increased oil pressure, volume, and lower temperature is a good thing.

This is good for both a "normal" motor and high rpm motor.

Make sure your porting and turbo sizing is complimentary.

regards

Rick
1993 RX-7

 

The motor has not been ported yet, I told the mechanic (Larry Scott) that I was putting a large single turbo on and shooting for 450RWHP and that I did not want any power below 4000 rpm
As far as engine mounts go, should I get new stock one or is there an upgrade? I'm getting all my stuff through MazdaComp, do they have the HP oil pressure regulator? Thanx!
-Jedon

 

I thought FD engines already HAD the high pressure oiling system (~110psi?), hardened stationary gears, and windowed rear bearing. Hmm, too bad my RB catalog isn't here because it's all detailed in there...

 

Higher pressure than the FC, 85 PSI if I remember correctly. As for the hardened gears and wondowed main bearings, I am pretty sure they dont have those. They do have the deep-groove rotor bearings stock. For anyone building up a 2nd gen motor, FD rotor bearings are the cheap way to get race bearings. They cost 1/3 of the "race" bearings, but are the same thing.

 

Actually, there are two types of bearings that can be used in the FD motor (for the crank). There are the stock bearings that have the groove in them, then there are the windowed bearings. The windowed bearings will allow you to spin to a higher (safer) rpm.

Most engine builders will give you those two options. The windowed bearings are, of course, more money. Some engine builders also cryo the side seals and apex seals. This is supposed to help. There are a host of other mods you can do as well. The Racing Beat catalog lists the more popular ones.

The question is, how much cabbage you got?

regards

Rick

 

Carcrazy, which are you referring to, rotor or main bearings? I know you can get windowed main bearings, and are a necessity for high-rpm motors, but as far as I know, there are not any windowed rotor bearings. The stock FD rotor bearings are pretty much the same as the race rotor bearings for the FC 13B. The only difference is the race bearings for the FC 13B have an extra .0005" clearance. Both of those bearings have a deeper oil groove than the stock FC 13B bearings.