When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If I had air, I'd just use a real impact gun instead of the electric!
My options are - load the engine up on the trailer so I can take it to work and use air. Don't want to do that because they're back to salting the roads.
Buy an air compressor. Really don't want to do that, expense and space contraints
Use my 3/4" breaker bar and a longer cheater pipe. This is what I'll do.
Said breakr bar has a good 15 degree bend in it from fighting a flywheel nut that someone tightened down by driving it on with a 3/4" impact until the gun stalled. I had the flywheel bolted to an 8' long piece of angle iron (which bent) and had an 8' piece of pipe and when the nut popped the engine flipped over!
I've never had a problem with loosening a properly torqued nut with just a breaker bar and no cheater!
They're absolutely useless, unless you are a midget amputee, or the driver/passenger are. I've got rear seats in my FC, and there is no way a typical American adult is getting back there unless the front seats are near their forward travel limit.
well shoot...Id have driven up and helped if you sold them to me.. haha
shipping from canada near killed me...
let me know.. Id be interested in latches etc if you decide to part the seats...
oh.. and in Australia ive had 4 adults in an rx7.. im 6ft1... though when my buddy owned my old rx7 and I sat in the back.. it wasnt good after about 30mins hahah
I have younger kids.. they will deal with it
oh and as far as a typical American.. well lets just say... a typical american is at least 50 pounds heavier than most other countries... I kow.. I put that on when I moved here haha
oh.. and in Australia ive had 4 adults in an rx7.. im 6ft1... though when my buddy owned my old rx7 and I sat in the back.. it wasnt good after about 30mins hahah
I have younger kids.. they will deal with it
Me too. I've had my series 3 for almost 20 years. As a young man, I would regularly squish 4 adults in there, even 5 once (sssh). On that last occasion, with a standard 12A, I did manage to blow up the clutch accelerating up hill prompting a 5 person push start down the other side and back home.
I spent the next period of ownership thinking of ways to convert mine to a 2 seater with the LHD rear bin setup. Lots of aussies wanted to do this conversion and a couple of people went to the trouble of importing the setup. I'm glad I never went through with it.
These days, I will be using the back seats for my kids as you are. It's perfect for them.
The other advantage of the rear seat setup is that I reckon the frames for the bins is what accelerates rust at the front of that rear wheel arch area. I've never seen an Aussie car develop rust there.
Well, I'm 6'2". Nobody is getting in the seat behind me unless they have no legs.
The few times my daughter rode in the back of the FC, she sat mostly sideways, even though my wife doesn't have to slide the passenger seat back as far as I do.
I can't put the rear seats in my '79 unless I remove the bracing Mazda put in to meet US safety regs (that was later determined to be unnecessary, and is not present in '81 and up. I didn't even get the storage bins, just a solid panel, which has speakers in it on mine.)
If I had air, I'd just use a real impact gun instead of the electric!
My options are - load the engine up on the trailer so I can take it to work and use air. Don't want to do that because they're back to salting the roads.
Buy an air compressor. Really don't want to do that, expense and space contraints
Use my 3/4" breaker bar and a longer cheater pipe. This is what I'll do.
Said breakr bar has a good 15 degree bend in it from fighting a flywheel nut that someone tightened down by driving it on with a 3/4" impact until the gun stalled. I had the flywheel bolted to an 8' long piece of angle iron (which bent) and had an 8' piece of pipe and when the nut popped the engine flipped over!
I've never had a problem with loosening a properly torqued nut with just a breaker bar and no cheater!
How are you going to keep the engine still to use that cheater bar? I had this problem with one and even on the engine stand, the engine kept moving around enough to make it a dicey proposition. An air tool was the only thing that would get it off. :/ Someone maybe used red locktite on mine.
I just pulled mine off with my electric impact a couple of weeks ago, but I didn't locktite it and it was properly torqued.
Tore down the 13Bpp the other night. Carnage pics:
The bolt that went in the intake certainly made an impression my rear rotor:
One apex sealed is permanently jammed in the groove as the tip of the rotor got pinched by the bolt.
Aaaand...
The rear housing looks like someone drug their fingernail through icing on a cake:
The rotor will be replaced, courtesy of j9fd3s. The housing...well, it actually made good compression on one face. This is a budget build, and I'm going to keep it a budget build. Reusing the housing and will check compression after the engine is assembled. If it looks good, we'll go with it. If not, then I'll save up for some RB housings.
Interesting about the bolt going through. This seems to happen a lot. I picked up a really great
deal on a blown 12A that had a full Atkins hard/soft kit used in the rebuild. Turns out a bolt was
in the rear rotor and when started it left some small dents in the rotor and took a chunk out of
the housing at the top of the exhaust port and left the thread pattern in the exhaust port. No
other scrapes or damage the housing that I could see. When I mic it I will find out.
The good news is this motor was hardly run and all the hard parts seem to be in great shape plus
its an 83 with the lighter rotating assembly. I plan on reusing it for a SP 12A so the notch in the
rear housing exhaust port will disappear at port time.
How are you going to keep the engine still to use that cheater bar? I had this problem with one and even on the engine stand, the engine kept moving around enough to make it a dicey proposition. An air tool was the only thing that would get it off. :/ Someone maybe used red locktite on mine.
I just pulled mine off with my electric impact a couple of weeks ago, but I didn't locktite it and it was properly torqued.
fm
The video looked like he had a piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it to correspond with two holes on the flywheel. Bolt the angle iron to the flywheel and turn away.
Pretty smart!! If I didn't have air I'd do that too.
Actually, since the engine is locked up solid (I hope it's got a usable rotor housing in it), I couldn't put the angle iron on two bolts, so it's just on one bolt and running against one of the pressure plate dowels!
Works just fine. Gives you a place to stand on when you're putting all of your back into lifting up on the breaker bar.
I've been loosening flywheel nuts like this since forever. I think Sport Compact Car showed them doing this in the late 90's for their project RX-7.
getting a little more done on the rear suspension, this pic shows the rear axle sitting on the frame, i will raise it 2 inches and then weld up the spring buckets
i also striped the cover and foam pad off the dash
I removed my shocks and strut cartridges and shipped them off to be rebuilt. They are Advance Design shocks that Ground Control use to sell, now they don't even service them, I had to find a new company to rebuild them.
