James is making a good point about shipping from Mazdatrix, they are a great resource for the rotary community but you do have to think about shipping. I just received a package from them yesterday, 4 short screws that anchor the drums to the rear axle, $2.00 each for a total purchase of $8.00. As James mentioned, they don't tell you when you purchase online what the shipping cost will be, or even how it will be shipped Only when I opened the package did I learn that the priority 2 day shipping cost me $7.00, doubling the cost of the purchase. And, as it turned out, the 4 screws were nothing more than common hardware parts (not Mazda OEM) that I could have found at Ace for 25 cents a piece. Live and learn.

Which brings me to my second point, which is that while it's nice to have the Mazda OEM discount that Martin has for some things, for our 30+ year old cars the far better choice for most stuff is used or after market parts - Mazda OEM parts for these cars are greatly inflated in price. Even for my Protege5 and Mazda3 I avoid Mazda OEM, since I can find aftermarket equivalents for less than half the price, sometimes even 10% of OEM. A lot of these parts are made in China, which helps explain why the cost is reasonable (parts not produced by $50/hour factory workers, not price gouged by industry executives).

Of course Trump plans to fix all that with his tariffs and we working class Americans earning under six figures will see our entire skimpy tax break eaten up by rising costs and inflation, probably within the next year. We are headed for the Dark Ages folks.

 

ray did u try looking at a hardware store? i think those screws could be had for a lot less.

 

Hardware items for sure Michael, check out what $16 worth of Mazdatrix screws looks like:

 

 

 

I buy non-essential hardware from Lowes. Saves money for the stuff you have to buy from Mazda. I needed corner button seal rubber inserts. I can't get them from my local Mazda dealer; they don't know jack about rotaries.


On a lighter note I churched up my engine bay. I lobbed off lots of unused connectors (figured if I haven't used them in 4 years I'm not gonna). And I got rid of that silly AN fuel line. Also, I re wrapped and routed the wires, and I added my front shroud thingy.

 

Mike check out this guys new GSL-SE, I think you will like it.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene...sl-se-1124817/

 

That's a pretty one.

 

Very nice example,but i'm partial to that color... wonder if it's been painted or that's original. All trim looks good. Really only thing i see to nit pick about is the sunfaded panels on inner wheel house both sides and by hatch latch. Car spent some time out of doors. Someone restored that finish or its probably had some paint,would love to see that one up close. Looks to have been well kept,engine compartment looks new.

 

Ad says it was a respray.

 

 

Hi Guys Im in need of wisdom and HELP!!, I'm located in Winston Salem NC , I don't know much about Rotaries but willing to learn if there are some Rotor Heads that would like to come over to my house and help me tune this 12a. Im dying to take it out on the road!!!!!

 

Sweet RX2. I'm located about an hour west in Huntersville NC. Whats the carb and intake on it? Whats the issue with the tune?

 

saw the other post, very nice rx2. but if i'd bought something looking that good especially at what u probably paid for it, i wouldn't expect to have to wrench OR tune on it before i could drive it.

 

I'm sure whatever Mr. Medevac1 spent on that RX-2 was a good deal Michael, that is one sweet unit at any price!



And to my non-white friends let me say about Trump's DACA rant today, he is a lying, stinking, creepy pile of parrot poop:




Having said all that, I must admit that video of him and Roseanne having intercourse is pretty entertaining.

Anyway, back to that sweet RX-2, like Tim says carburetion is important, especially for 12As.

I'm sure there are some OGTA gurus that can help Mr. Medevac, give us some info!

So what you got, Webers? Del Hortos? Maybe a Farrell Nikki?

 

Hey!! I own a 1996 rx7 right hand drive . I need an appraisal so I can insure my new baby.
where do.I go in Toronto? Thanks! Joanne

 

it's got a holley on it ray.

 

Thank you for the great comments, The car took me 1 yr to get it where it is now if you all could see how I got it to where it is now.... lol we did all the preparation and we painted it ourselves, The underneath was also fully restored and painted, The carburation on it, is a brand new Holley 600 from holley.com. I do have a 1973 nikki with the oem manifold at home but im sure it needs rebuilding. Here are some pics of the before during and after.

Shipped to North Carolina from Los Angeles California..

Prepped for paint NO RUST!!!!!!

Fresh out of the Paint booth

As it sits TODAY

 

Wow, nice work! You got talent Mr. Meds.

A Holley is just a Nikki on steroids, should be straight forward.

Set the idle high, say 2-3000 depending on your porting.

Then turn the mixture screw out until it starts to die.

Then turn the mixture screw back in until the rpms reach a max.

Then turn down the idle speed to 700-1000 rpms, depending on your porting.

Finally back off the mixture screw about a half a turn, depending on how many steroids the Holley took.

Readjust the idle and Zoom-Zoom!

 

Very pretty 2 for sure.

You need to resurrect that nikki, massage it, and use it instead of the holley. You will spend more time and money getting the holley to work right than modding the nikki to feed the SP you have on there. Guaranteed!

 

Thank you!!!

 

I agree with Tim, the nikki will be much more user friendly for you than the Holley, especially if your not a carb guru.
Rebuild the nikki, with suggestions from the experts and you will be way ahead of the game.

There are several pitfalls in the nikki rebuild that advice from experienced users here on the forum can prevent.

1. Don't use the needles and seats in the rebuild kit, use the old ones.
2. If the Nikki is unmolested, don't adjust the float levels,
3. Don't use the paper base gaskets in the rebuild kit, the nikki base has permanently installed base gaskets that are not removable.
4. Keep up with the location of the tiny ***** and weights meticulously,
5. Use a stock fuel pump, or at least check the fuel pressure to make sure it is within the limits the Nikki likes.

I'm sure there are a couple more that other, more knowledgeable Nikki experts will point out.
You will avoid a lot of tuning problems with the nikki.

 

Does anyone​ on here locally happen to have some wheels they want to sell that could fit an FC? I'm looking for some spare wheels for my drift car, it wants to roast the tires.

 

I've got a nice set of 13" X wheels you can install with adapters Demitri, you can't roast those 13" tires.

Robert and Tim, I agree, Nikki's Rule.

Rotary God Approved:



And OGTA Certified:


The preferred carb of OGTA's everywhere.

 

Thats a beautiful Nikki Ray, Is that on the LE now?

Will we see you at DGRR? I have brew to lure you there.