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Old 10-28-09, 07:42 PM
  #8276  
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Originally Posted by Crit
Hey Donnie, can you bring my flywheel stopper if you come down? We may need it soon for Chris' cracked flywheel.
So have you guys decided to go ahead and just replace it while it's still not being driven?
Old 10-28-09, 08:07 PM
  #8277  
Lots of rotors

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This is odd

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/1441405134.html
Old 10-28-09, 08:11 PM
  #8278  
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Originally Posted by BrettLinton7
I wonder how well it runs...

I've seen the Suzuki Samurai with an RX7 motor, why not a Geo Tracker?

Quad
Old 10-28-09, 08:18 PM
  #8279  
No distributor? No thanks

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Not sure. If we don't do it next weekend, we'll need to do it when he gets a clutch.
Old 10-28-09, 08:21 PM
  #8280  
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I would think it'd be smarter to just do it now and get it out of the way. The clutch can happen later, but I wouldn't want to drive around on a flywheel with that many cracks in it. **** happens, and since it's not driving around right now... I'd say so it now to avoid a "Ugh!" moment if it goes south.

But that's just my opinion.
Old 10-28-09, 09:06 PM
  #8281  
Sleeper but still slow

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Yeah the flywheel does bother me, if we put a jack under the tranny with the car up on stands like it is now, and undid the bolts, then lowered the trans, could a flywheel be replaced in a short amount of time? Then I still need to hook up the speedometer cable, and install the under tray, a relay, and a few fuses, and I think the car would be pretty much done other than interior cosmetics.
Old 10-28-09, 09:07 PM
  #8282  
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Is anyone available to help me out with my carb tomorrow? I'd like to get this thing fired up and ready to go, and it seems like it just needs a good carb adjustment, but I'm not at all knowledgeable about these things.

I tried to find what you were talking about Crit, that part that may be gummed up, and I couldn't find it...

I live like 10 minutes away from Jeffery's (or whatever it's called now), off Pleasant Hill....

Quad
Old 10-28-09, 09:46 PM
  #8283  
Sleeper but still slow

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Originally Posted by KevinGallo
Is anyone available to help me out with my carb tomorrow? I'd like to get this thing fired up and ready to go, and it seems like it just needs a good carb adjustment, but I'm not at all knowledgeable about these things.

I tried to find what you were talking about Crit, that part that may be gummed up, and I couldn't find it...

I live like 10 minutes away from Jeffery's (or whatever it's called now), off Pleasant Hill....

Quad
if I wasn't working I'd come take a look, sorry man.
Old 10-28-09, 11:16 PM
  #8284  
No distributor? No thanks

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Originally Posted by '87 turbo II
Yeah the flywheel does bother me, if we put a jack under the tranny with the car up on stands like it is now, and undid the bolts, then lowered the trans, could a flywheel be replaced in a short amount of time? Then I still need to hook up the speedometer cable, and install the under tray, a relay, and a few fuses, and I think the car would be pretty much done other than interior cosmetics.
Well, there's the rub. Will the electric impact get it off? Maybe. How 'bout a portable compressor turned up to 135? Probably. Big-*** chunk of steel welded to a 3/4 extension? Absolutely - but it also requires the flywheel stopper to do it that way.

If you want to try it, Chris, we can pull the tranny and I'll bring my little portable compressor and impact wrench and give it a try. If anyone can meet with Donnie and get the flywheel stopper, then it's a done deal.
Old 10-28-09, 11:24 PM
  #8285  
Sleeper but still slow

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Originally Posted by Crit
Well, there's the rub. Will the electric impact get it off? Maybe. How 'bout a portable compressor turned up to 135? Probably. Big-*** chunk of steel welded to a 3/4 extension? Absolutely - but it also requires the flywheel stopper to do it that way.

If you want to try it, Chris, we can pull the tranny and I'll bring my little portable compressor and impact wrench and give it a try. If anyone can meet with Donnie and get the flywheel stopper, then it's a done deal.
I'm not trying to make things harder than they have to be, but it would be a HUGE peace of mind for me.
Old 10-29-09, 06:07 AM
  #8286  
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Do it right, do it once. Do it quick, do it twice.
Old 10-29-09, 07:40 AM
  #8287  
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I would not do it until you change the clutch later down the road. Trust me, you will never notice it. It will not blowup on you.

Also, Donnie, ask Seth about my flywheel socket as well.


-billy
Old 10-29-09, 09:17 AM
  #8288  
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I have the big-*** socket on a sliding breaker bar to take the flywheel nut off with (you'll need a cheater pipe of go on the end to get enough torque). I also had (have?) the long box-tube flywheel stopper the Racing Beat sells. I'll have to see if I can find it.
Let me know if you guys need any of this.
Old 10-29-09, 10:07 AM
  #8289  
Sleeper but still slow

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Originally Posted by GKW
I have the big-*** socket on a sliding breaker bar to take the flywheel nut off with (you'll need a cheater pipe of go on the end to get enough torque). I also had (have?) the long box-tube flywheel stopper the Racing Beat sells. I'll have to see if I can find it.
Let me know if you guys need any of this.
sounds like exactly what I need.

Billy, I know I can probably trust you, gene, and Crit, but what happens when a flywheel goes is too great a risk for me to ever fully be comfortable with one that has developed several cracks. I'd lose the bell housing, the uni-body we all worked so hard on to get running, and possibly my feet.
Old 10-29-09, 10:21 AM
  #8290  
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Do flywheels really break? I've never heard of that happening. And those fissures didn't look that bad. I agree with Billy, if you are going to replace the flywheel, do it when you do the clutch. Most of that job is labor so why do it twice? And do you have a spare flywheel?

Chris, unless the bulbs in the logicon are different from the ones in the dials (I don't think so, but I don't have the logicon bulb to compare) then yes Autozone does have them, it's the Sylvania 2721, I matched it exactly with one of my bulbs from the dials.
Old 10-29-09, 10:25 AM
  #8291  
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Originally Posted by ray green
Do flywheels really break? I've never heard of that happening. And those fissures didn't look that bad. I agree with Billy, if you are going to replace the flywheel, do it when you do the clutch. Most of that job is labor so why do it twice? And do you have a spare flywheel?

Chris, unless the bulbs in the logicon are different from the ones in the dials (I don't think so, but I don't have the logicon bulb to compare) then yes Autozone does have them, it's the Sylvania 2721, I matched it exactly with one of my bulbs from the dials.
no, they're different. The bulbs are like this



and they need those 2 long exposed wires to be installed in the holders of the logicon. They are 3.7mm in diameter, and approx 8 or 9 mms tall.
Old 10-29-09, 10:38 AM
  #8292  
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I have the stock flywheel off my 85 12A you can borrow.
But it needs to be resurfaced first.
Old 10-29-09, 12:31 PM
  #8293  
No distributor? No thanks

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Originally Posted by GKW
I have the big-*** socket on a sliding breaker bar to take the flywheel nut off with (you'll need a cheater pipe of go on the end to get enough torque). I also had (have?) the long box-tube flywheel stopper the Racing Beat sells. I'll have to see if I can find it.
Let me know if you guys need any of this.
I've got a cheater bar and 54mm socket. It's stopping the flywheel that would be tough. We'd be doing it on the car, but I don't know if that's a problem with the long box-tube stopper or not. The one that I loaned out picks up the two bolts at the top-right corner of the rear iron and meshes with the teeth of the ring gear.
Old 10-29-09, 12:39 PM
  #8294  
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Originally Posted by '87 turbo II
sounds like exactly what I need.

Billy, I know I can probably trust you, gene, and Crit, but what happens when a flywheel goes is too great a risk for me to ever fully be comfortable with one that has developed several cracks. I'd lose the bell housing, the uni-body we all worked so hard on to get running, and possibly my feet.
Where are the cracks at? You mean little tiny heat cracks? I have heard of them coming apart but at high RPM's around 12,000 under pressure or with big boost!
Old 10-29-09, 01:19 PM
  #8295  
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Originally Posted by Crit
I've got a cheater bar and 54mm socket. It's stopping the flywheel that would be tough. We'd be doing it on the car, but I don't know if that's a problem with the long box-tube stopper or not. The one that I loaned out picks up the two bolts at the top-right corner of the rear iron and meshes with the teeth of the ring gear.
Crit, as I recall it is about 2.5' long. If the car is low enough, you can let it rotate until it hits the garage floor. Or you can let it rotate until it hits the car. You just need to make sure there is nothing that can be easily crushed underneath (wire, hose, etc). It attaches by using 2 of the pressure plate mounting bolts.

I'll look for it when I get home.
Old 10-29-09, 01:29 PM
  #8296  
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Originally Posted by rolandgreauxii
Where are the cracks at? You mean little tiny heat cracks? I have heard of them coming apart but at high RPM's around 12,000 under pressure or with big boost!
If I recall correctly, there were a bunchy of tiny cracks and one rather large one that made me cringe a little... -shrug-
Old 10-29-09, 01:32 PM
  #8297  
No distributor? No thanks

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No, just one crack, about 3/4" long and completely within the friction surface of the flywheel. Didn't run in or out from the friction area.
Old 10-29-09, 02:27 PM
  #8298  
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Certainly nothing to worry about Chris. It will not explode and come apart on you.

If you do decide to replace it be prepared with a new clutch. If you put your used clutch against a different flywheel it will last 2 weeks, TOPS.

You need to find a flywheel, have it re-surfaced. Get a new clutch and pressure plate before you decide to swap it.

-billy
Old 10-29-09, 02:33 PM
  #8299  
Sleeper but still slow

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There are several cracks (about 4), not just one, all are very thin, hairline width, none of the cracks longer than 1.5 inches, however, a stock, perfectly good solid flywheel is rated for 10.5 thousand RPM before reaching the dangerous point where it could shatter. However with cracks, who knows? that might be lowered down to 7k or 8k or lower which I could be good about not hitting, but the engine likes to rev, and hitting RPM levels in that range is not hard to do. I could easily tame my right foot for the road, but I do use the car in basic motor sport (autocross). I have to pay Ray about $370 for the car, pay $111 for the ticket, and probably over a few expenses in the future. so a $150 clutch might be a ways down the road. I suppose I could drive on this flywheel until then. I mean, the car drove great before, even when I beat on it a bit at Road Atlanta and such, so if I am aware of the problem, it should last.

I'll just wait until I get a clutch before driving hard, this also gives me time to resurface the flywheel I get from Crit.
Old 10-29-09, 02:39 PM
  #8300  
Lots of rotors

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Originally Posted by rolandgreauxii
Where are the cracks at? You mean little tiny heat cracks? I have heard of them coming apart but at high RPM's around 12,000 under pressure or with big boost!
I've heard that too from a knowledgeable person.

So I did something rather stupid today. I bought an RB front strut mount that mounts to the firewall as well, along with a huge RB front sway bar. And when I got home, I realized I didn't make sure it was for an FC, and alas, it's for an FB. And I'm not really wanting to to anything to the FB now, so does anyone want either of those? They're great products, just not what I was expecting... $100 for the front sway without the mounts, and $150 for the strut brace with all hardware, or what I paid- $230 for both... I feel like a dumbass now.


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