damn man

 

huh? How is this t-stat related? It is flex related. Unless I am missing something.. just confused.

Time to dowel and stud that thang Long!!

 

caz not having a t-stat didn't let the rear plate cool from the extra heat the turbo was making under hard boost. it didn't allow the rear iron to grow at the same rate of the rest of the motor cazing it to bust right there at the dowel

me and josh where thinking the same thing. then i told him to call atkins to see if there was anything he could do to the motor besides dowel pining it. and b4 josh told him what broke dave told him how it broke, where it broke and told him that he didn't have a t-stat in his motor and just was like

so i would say its T-stat related

 

http://carolinamotormadness.com/ <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<free

 

intresting theory

 

josh that really really sucks.... can you fix it or are the irons just trash?

 

Unfortunatly the rear iron is junk now. But don't worry, the porting will insue shortly. What Dan at Atkins was telling Josh, he experianced 20 years ago with some race engines. The coolant in the engine is moving too fast to let everthing heat and cool at the same rate. In a NA engine, it probably would never happen. But that much heat caused by that much boost, bang. I have seen that happen in 12A and S4 13Bs. The S5 and S6 irons are stronger in that area, but is still a possibility.

 

Hey man. Welcome to the group. If you have a rebuild kit for the carb, I can rebuild it for you. Those Nikki carbs aren't that bad. They look a little intimidating at first, but once you have been through a couple dozen of them you kinda learn a few things Just give me a PM and I'll see what I can do for you

 

Sorry to hear about that Josh.... If it makes you feel any better, you could slap that motor back together the way it is and still walk just about every car on the road! lol

 

Does this make #4 or 5?

 

Dave This is # 4 but its all good I cant help that I have a leadfoot lol, It sucks that it cracked,but hey Im learning from my mistakes. And yes it will be boosting again this coming week. ITS JUST ALL ANOTHER DAY AND ANOTHER DOLLAR. PS I think that my car hates me LOL LOL LOL

 

Wasn't being a smartass, just was implying your having a string of bad luck in a short period. It happens. And yes you have a lead foot.. If ya aint first yer last!!

Building mine today Just got done clearencing all the seals and installing the new oil control rings and springs etc... I may even get motivated if the endplay is in spec and throw it back in the car... but Cory had me on my knees all night and my legs are sore today......................

 

Dave! I told you not to tell them that! Am I gonna have to come back up there!??

 

I think you guys are getting a little too close here lately

 

I'll be there

 

So conversion help please. I forgot my metric calipers at the shop. My Apex seals measure 3 1/8 inch I convert that to be 3.125 in decimal form..correct? Spec is 3.14

Did you have to clearance your apex seals from atkins Long?

 

You are correct

 

Yes I did and it sucks too, it takes so much time but hey when done right it is right all mine where close but not good anuff so I had to fall fit them. but mine where for a 12A.

 

Engine is built and it spins freely,..always a bonus!! Setting endplay next and then do the rest of the bits to put on it before install later on in the weekend maybe.

All my seals were within spec according to what tools I have here to measure with.

 

Already ran into an issue I did not think of. Since using the S4T2 rotating assembly I did not think to check the size of the thrust bearings and washers at the counterweight side...They are way different than the FD. Easy fix though. I am headed to my engine parts suppliers house tonight to grab the appropriate front stationary gear for the rotating assembly

 

hell yea dave looks good. lemme know if you need any help this week installing it.

 

Wow it looks nice! What port is that again Dave? Bad memory

Josh/Dre, any luck with the popo?


Wheels as they are now, this is stripped and polished:


This one is getting its bubble bath as we speak:


Need to go pick up the rest of the sand paper and some clear, then I will be done! Hopefully I can get the machined part a nice mirror polish, and leave the once black the silver matte finish it has now.

 

Bridge.
here is a builders best investment. Good for at least 300 builds


Hit the lip you want polished with some 400 grit paper, then some 800, and then 1k if desired. Then some Mothers metal polish and BAM, blingin baby!!. On the bling note,.. I have found a paint that gives the exact look of chrome..Mucho Denero though. Any ballers want to try it let me know.

 

Dave. I was wondering if you used S4 or S6 rotor bearings? Also, are you running the S6 e-shaft?

 

Dave I was talking to a friend and found out that you can NOT use a s6 e shaft with a s4 or s5rotor bearings. Did you use a t11 e shaft?? And the s4-s5 thrush bearing is different. So If you used s4 rotaing assm and s6 e shaft you may have some probloms. Just wandering and hey that motor looks very good.