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Gslse tps adjustment problems (no lights ever..)

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Old 09-19-21, 05:33 PM
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Gslse tps adjustment problems (no lights ever..)

So im trying to adjust the tps by the shop manual. Tested the tps with an ohm meter, and it is working properly. I made the test light. Tested it on the battery so I know it works. Following the correct procedure from the book. Checking from the green clip by the air box I am getting no lights no matter how I adjust the screw. Not sure if this helps but with a test light there is power going to all wires from the green clip. Anyone know where to go from here?
Old 09-22-21, 09:34 AM
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I followed this to adjust mine: SECTION 3: STANDARD ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES

ADJUSTING THROTTLE SENSOR (Throttle Position Sensor (TPS))

Locate the test connector near the strut tower and the air filter. It is a green, three pronged connector. Position it so the two parallel connectors are on top, looking like two eyes and a mouth. You will be measuring current flow between the mouth and each eye. There are four ways to do this.
1. You can get from Mazda a rig with two 12 volt, 3.4 watt light bulbs. Mazdatrix sells it as part # 49-F018-0010.
2. You can build your own tester from Radio Shack parts. It is easy and cheap. Go to your local Radio Shack and buy:
o Two packages of: Cat. No. 276-084A - Red LED assembly with 12V resistor
o One package of: Cat. No. 64-4040 - Red, male and female crimp connectors (you will only use the males.
o Crimping tool, if you don't have one. Bring the ends of the red wires from the two LEDs together, and crimp them into one single male connector. Treat the remaining black wires separately, crimping each into its own male connector. Insert the red leads into the "mouth," and each black lead into an "eye."
3. You can use two voltmeters. Set the range for 20 volts DC. Meter #1 will have it's positive lead to the "mouth" and the negative lead to the left "eye." Meter #2 will have it's negative lead to the "mouth," and its positive lead to the right "eye."
4. If you only have one volt meter, you can buy another one (cheap) or you can make do with the single meter by alternating the position of the leads. The problem is you have to reverse leads as you alternate to keep the meters wired as in the "two meter" description above. Locate the TPS adjusting screw. This is a slotted screw located 2 inches to the intake side of the "R" in "RE-EGI." This screw came with a cap over it, but don't be surprised if it is missing.

For the following procedure, reference is made to voltage registering on one, both, or neither meter. This is the same as one both or neither lights glowing if you are using that method.
1. Warm up the engine and stop it.
2. Connect the meters or lights to the green test connector
3. Turn the ignition switch on (light the dash warning lights)
4. Look for one meter to register voltage.
5. If voltage registers on both meters turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise.
6. If voltage registers on neither meter turn the adjusting screw clockwise. The TPS is properly adjusted when only one meter registers voltage.

Note: This procedure will not work unless the key has been turned off, and then back on. In other words, you cannot adjust the TPS if the key remains on after the engine has stalled. You must turn the key off, and then back on again.

TESTING FOR A BAD TPS

If you suspect the TPS is malfunctioning (as opposed to being out of adjustment) you can check it with an ohmmeter. This is done with the engine off. Disconnect the connector from the Throttle Sensor itself and orient it like an upside-down face, with the "mouth" on top, and the two parallel "eyes" on the bottom. Connect your ohmmeter to the "eye" on the right and the "mouth" above. Look for a reading of about 1 k-ohm with the throttle closed (idle) and 5 k-ohm with the throttle fully open.
Old 09-28-21, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Boriquaguerrero
I followed this to adjust mine: SECTION 3: STANDARD ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES

ADJUSTING THROTTLE SENSOR (Throttle Position Sensor (TPS))

Locate the test connector near the strut tower and the air filter. It is a green, three pronged connector. Position it so the two parallel connectors are on top, looking like two eyes and a mouth. You will be measuring current flow between the mouth and each eye. There are four ways to do this.
1. You can get from Mazda a rig with two 12 volt, 3.4 watt light bulbs. Mazdatrix sells it as part # 49-F018-0010.
2. You can build your own tester from Radio Shack parts. It is easy and cheap. Go to your local Radio Shack and buy:
o Two packages of: Cat. No. 276-084A - Red LED assembly with 12V resistor
o One package of: Cat. No. 64-4040 - Red, male and female crimp connectors (you will only use the males.
o Crimping tool, if you don't have one. Bring the ends of the red wires from the two LEDs together, and crimp them into one single male connector. Treat the remaining black wires separately, crimping each into its own male connector. Insert the red leads into the "mouth," and each black lead into an "eye."
3. You can use two voltmeters. Set the range for 20 volts DC. Meter #1 will have it's positive lead to the "mouth" and the negative lead to the left "eye." Meter #2 will have it's negative lead to the "mouth," and its positive lead to the right "eye."
4. If you only have one volt meter, you can buy another one (cheap) or you can make do with the single meter by alternating the position of the leads. The problem is you have to reverse leads as you alternate to keep the meters wired as in the "two meter" description above. Locate the TPS adjusting screw. This is a slotted screw located 2 inches to the intake side of the "R" in "RE-EGI." This screw came with a cap over it, but don't be surprised if it is missing.

For the following procedure, reference is made to voltage registering on one, both, or neither meter. This is the same as one both or neither lights glowing if you are using that method.
1. Warm up the engine and stop it.
2. Connect the meters or lights to the green test connector
3. Turn the ignition switch on (light the dash warning lights)
4. Look for one meter to register voltage.
5. If voltage registers on both meters turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise.
6. If voltage registers on neither meter turn the adjusting screw clockwise. The TPS is properly adjusted when only one meter registers voltage.

Note: This procedure will not work unless the key has been turned off, and then back on. In other words, you cannot adjust the TPS if the key remains on after the engine has stalled. You must turn the key off, and then back on again.

TESTING FOR A BAD TPS

If you suspect the TPS is malfunctioning (as opposed to being out of adjustment) you can check it with an ohmmeter. This is done with the engine off. Disconnect the connector from the Throttle Sensor itself and orient it like an upside-down face, with the "mouth" on top, and the two parallel "eyes" on the bottom. Connect your ohmmeter to the "eye" on the right and the "mouth" above. Look for a reading of about 1 k-ohm with the throttle closed (idle) and 5 k-ohm with the throttle fully open.
Thats the problem. I get no lights at all no matter how I adjust it. I tested it with the ohm meter and that check out though. Wondering if it could still be a bad tps. I had to adjust it way out because it was causing bad surging. So its doing something.
Old 10-21-21, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Covington
Thats the problem. I get no lights at all no matter how I adjust it. I tested it with the ohm meter and that check out though. Wondering if it could still be a bad tps. I had to adjust it way out because it was causing bad surging. So its doing something.
If you unplug the TPS does it change the way it idles?
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