How come the pictures aren't showing up on the GSL-SE TPS Adjustment for Dummies... FAQ thread? I want to test mine, but don't know how to make the light bulb circuit.

 

Here's a pic from the FSM. You can either use small flashlight bulbs or you can get some 12v LEDs from RadioShack. With the flashlight bulbs, polarity doesn't matter..but with the LEDs, it does matter.

I use the LEDs. You can get them for about $1.29 each (last I checked) from RadioShack.

 

I have both set-ups. I do not use the LED's anymore. Most of the time when I was adjusting the TPS it was outside, and I couldn't see the lights due to the sun.

 

ok, so I attempted to adjust TPS yesterday, and no lights show with any position of the pots. I got a volt meter and am seeing 12V across all three connectors to ground. Do I have a bad TPS?

 

You might. Are you using flashlight bulbs or LEDs? LEDs will not come on if you have the polarity backwards.

Is this with a warm engine? I find it best to warm up the engine, turn the key all the way to off, then turn it to 'ON' (warning lights on) a few seconds later. Try to hold the throttle open and push the TPS plunger in/out. You should hear some clicking and the TPS adjustment lights going on/off. If not, unplug the TPS and test the resistance between each 'eye' of the connector and the 'mouth'. One pair will start at about 1kOhm and increases to about 5kOhm as you push the plunger in. The other pair will start around 5kOhm and decrease to 1kOhm as you push the plunger in. Press slowly and look for dead spots in the readings.

Let us know what you find and we can go from there.

 

ive had my TPS tester fail too, so that might be worth checking

 

I am using two dome light bulbs. And then a voltmeter. The test were done with a warm engine.
I checked the TPS sensor. Should this be done with a warm engine as well? My TPS sensor test were not. At first, it seemed to be sticking, not coming all the way out. After working it a bit, that seems to be fixed. It's reading 3K at idle and 5.4K at full open. I wonder if I need to adjust that screw on top so that it will go down to 1K at idle. If so, do I do this while running? Also, should I adjust the idle to a certain rpm first?

 

engine needs to be HOT. the thermowax actually pushes open the throttle, so when it is cold its not at zero.

AND things move around when its hot, it just works out to adjust it when its at like maximum heat soak. so get it good and warmed up, drive it around the block a few times, and park it for a minute, and let it heat soak, then adjust

tps is done with key on engine off, so idle speed doesn't really matter

 

Running the TPS adjustment screw all the way out did finally bring things into range. Both high side and low side of plugs read ohms properly now. It doesn't seem correct that the screw run completely out though...

Retested with the lights, and now only one comes on, in idle position. Adjustment of the pots has no affect.

Also, the Dash Pot plunger thingy only comes out about 1/4". Is this how far it's supposed to come out? It does push in slowly, and come out quickly.

 

It appears that the second light will only come on when the TPS sensor plunger is completely depressed, no matter what position I have the pot in.

 

I want to make sure you are adjusting the right thing..are you turning the flat-head screw that is next to the TPS? That is the correct one. Just want to make sure you aren't turning something else.

Do this: Hold the thottle all the way open (with hand or have someone push the pedal down). See what you have one your test lights. Then press the TPS plunger in all the way. One way should have both lights and the other have no lights. This will make sure that the TPS test lights are working and give an idea if the TPS is good.

 

ok. at idle I have both lights on. Throttle fully depressed I have no lights.

You are right, I was turning the pot next to the passenger shock tower, not the screw next to the TPS sensor.

 

Thought that might be the case. That pot is for idle mixture adjustment.

Try setting the TPS again using the screw next to the TPS.

Good luck.

Kent

 

I've successfully adjusted the TPS after discovering that the top linkage cable was too tight, keeping the entire assembly from rotating completely. Once I loosened the linkage, I was able to adjust the TPS and get consistent results with the lights. One light on now at idle position.

Also, I think my questions about the Dash pot have been answered, as it seems to be engaged thru more of the throttle range now.

Next I'm looking at the idle mixture and speed. I see the Vacuum and Vent valves that I have to disconnect. It looks like they are wired to one harness which I've disconnected. Opened the gas cap. Started the car and used the tach on the dash to adjust for 800. Then I see that the pot I was first trying to adjust the TPS with comes into play. R and L marked on the pot. As I read it, I'm supposed to adjust this pot for maximum rpm. So that's what I've done. Is that all there is to it?

Also, it smells like the adjustments have noticeably improved the heavy fuel smell around the car when running.

What else do I need to be checking?

 

Looks like you are right on track. Now that you have your idle dialed in, you should check the timing to make sure it is good.

Have you downloaded the FSM or are you just using the Haynes manual or similar?

Section 4b will have most of the adjusting information for the GSL-SE:

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual