NRS Rotorsports ceramic seal test results
#552
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
But those black carbon marks are from the spark plug boss overheating. Check out the thread in Rotary Proformance, "Latest Experiment Failure". It is discussed there.
Barry
#553
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Here's the picture of the apex seal again brightened up. Looks real good except for a couple of very very light scratches (could just be a finger print or mark too) about 1 1/4" in from the left.
For some reason when I hosted the pic on photobucket my editing vanished, picture was not bright so its below.
Last edited by Glassman; 07-23-08 at 05:26 PM. Reason: brighter pic didn't work
#554
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Well i can wouch for that there is no scratches in any of the apex seals. Ive had my fingers over them to check for scratches and they are smoother now then when i put them in the engine.
The marks u see on the rotor housings are from the E85 and the same sticky stuff that's on the apex seals. There is water condesation all over the inside of the engine. And u can def see where the apex seals have been sitting from when i stopped the engine and untill i took the seals out. It's just water and 2 stroke oil, making it look like scratches. Il take some more pics of the rotor housing after i have washed them today. Same with pics of the apex seals aftere i have washed them clean.
JT
The marks u see on the rotor housings are from the E85 and the same sticky stuff that's on the apex seals. There is water condesation all over the inside of the engine. And u can def see where the apex seals have been sitting from when i stopped the engine and untill i took the seals out. It's just water and 2 stroke oil, making it look like scratches. Il take some more pics of the rotor housing after i have washed them today. Same with pics of the apex seals aftere i have washed them clean.
JT
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#556
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of some the porting from so called rotary experts, it's disgraceful.
I can't see your pictures at the mo as it's blocked while i'm at work.
rgds
Brian
#559
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Sven
Here are som cleaned up pictures of the apex seals and the rotor housings.
Rear rotor to the left and front to the right.
Front rotor housing
Rear rotor housing
And a shot of the rotor where the side seal had broken.
I hope im not hijaking your thread to much Sven. But the stranges thing is, even with 3 broken side seals and 1 stuck corner seal and sideal. The car started up on the first key turn with E85. Wich i find quite impressive. And also how high the compression was. So i guess the NRS Ceramic seals work good
JT
Here are som cleaned up pictures of the apex seals and the rotor housings.
Rear rotor to the left and front to the right.
Front rotor housing
Rear rotor housing
And a shot of the rotor where the side seal had broken.
I hope im not hijaking your thread to much Sven. But the stranges thing is, even with 3 broken side seals and 1 stuck corner seal and sideal. The car started up on the first key turn with E85. Wich i find quite impressive. And also how high the compression was. So i guess the NRS Ceramic seals work good
JT
#561
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i just think he might have been verry stressed when he did my porting. cause i did set a time limit to when i was comming over to pick the parts up. and the middle plate was the only thing he had not finished before the week i came. too bad what happend. but hey everyone can make a mistake or two. but it looks like it's getting sorted out quite fine.
it is a race bridge and it would never hold up for verry long. but it was a bit too small compeard to what i wanted. but getting it sorted out now.
but lets not use up Sven's thread about this.
JT
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I hope im not hijaking your thread to much Sven. But the stranges thing is, even with 3 broken side seals and 1 stuck corner seal and sideal. The car started up on the first key turn with E85. Wich i find quite impressive. And also how high the compression was. So i guess the NRS Ceramic seals work good
JT
I'm just happy that with all that was going on in the engine that the seals are in great shape!
#563
Rotary Enthusiast
If it does not work im going 3 rotor with a small streetport and a decent size turbo and 450rwhp. 99 V power and water AI. Or maybe E85 with that as well. Will see what happens, just tierd now. Had alot of problems over the last 4 years. And i will drop the car off at a tuner in england and let him build it. :P
JT
#565
#566
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#567
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Come to Matorp Park Action Meet this weekend! There you will se Gusfd3s hit the strip for the first time with his E85 "monster" lol.. Hope he get som good 11s at near 130 mph? ML Wankeltrim is also there with "Back in black" 74-RX-4 hope to hit the 10s zone with N/A 13B PP motor.
/Lasse
/Lasse
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You are absolutely right about that but somehow it's going to get done anyway, I hope and pray.
Been working like crazy getting the fixture for the c.s. springs finished. Man that has been some messin to get done. I have already about 24 hrs on it not including design and mock up of a sample to try before getting it made. Looks like it will work fine but it took 2 hrs to load as positioning of the springs is somewhat critical. I'll try another idea for loading it next time and hopefully it will be a lot easier and faster. Sad part is I will have to make at least 4 more of them
I hope this helps everyone understand the many many hours of development that go into these types of innovations. Everyone see's is the nice finished product but seldom do they know the time it takes to get to that point.
Been working like crazy getting the fixture for the c.s. springs finished. Man that has been some messin to get done. I have already about 24 hrs on it not including design and mock up of a sample to try before getting it made. Looks like it will work fine but it took 2 hrs to load as positioning of the springs is somewhat critical. I'll try another idea for loading it next time and hopefully it will be a lot easier and faster. Sad part is I will have to make at least 4 more of them
I hope this helps everyone understand the many many hours of development that go into these types of innovations. Everyone see's is the nice finished product but seldom do they know the time it takes to get to that point.
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Oh, I forgot. We are also exploring the option of a stiffer c.s. spring. With the ceramic apex seals we are more than doubling the pressure supplied by a single spring without the adverse affect of increased wear on the rotor housing.
We can definitely do the same with the corner seals. I have already found a spring maker that can make them thicker but due to cost reasons we may endeavor to make them ourselves later on.
Stiffer c.s. spring = better rotor stability = better sealing = less bearing load = more power = hoooraa
We can definitely do the same with the corner seals. I have already found a spring maker that can make them thicker but due to cost reasons we may endeavor to make them ourselves later on.
Stiffer c.s. spring = better rotor stability = better sealing = less bearing load = more power = hoooraa
#572
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That great to hear Ernie, how were the runs? Close to bringing the IRS record home yet* Whats holding you back from taking her back to 37-38psi and re-dynoing to see what she'll really do?
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Near death experience
Well, here's one for the record of bone head moves I've made in my life. I think this will make the top of the chart.
Just ran my new (new to me) annealing equipment for the first time. I made a programming error and the whole lot of 1 pc ceramic seals (2mm, 3mm & 12A) were annealed for approx 5 hours longer than they were supposed to
That's were the "near death experience" comes in. I could have killed myself!! (just kidding, that would never happen) Anyways, the parts took on a spotty look to them. As if splatted with a paint brush. Essentially what appears to have happened is the origional tone of the part came back in spots due to the additional annealing time. The other areas of the seal lightened in color as it should but these origional color spots came back.
Needless to say, I won't be putting these out to general market. I know well enough that this cosmetic difference would only create problems for me and any users so I've recently decided not to even go there. If anyone see's the spots they would only question the products quality and strength as it appears different.
I certainly don't want to get into a situation where no matter the circumstances the seals take the blame for failure. So, I am having the entire order re-made.
As it turns out this is a blessing in disguise for more than one reason
In the same lot of parts I had some special material seals made (6 pcs 3mm 1pc) so I could see how I like it and they were not affected at all by the additional annealing time. The good news here is that this is the best material I've ever laid my eyes on. The 6 seals are absolutly perfect and are yet again even stronger than the improved material I've been raving about (hard to believe isn't it). Even though the material costs more I've decided that this is the material that all future seals will be made from. It's a no brainer for me, it's simply the best there is. I cant wait to begin testing on this material
Here comes the good part, I like to end on a positive note. We will learn a ton from this! I have sent some of the spotted samples to the lab for destructive analysis and the results are in. What we didn't know was if the additional annealing time would weaken or actually strengthen the part. We do know that annealing at the proper time interval will increase the strength but the question is what happens when you go longer. As it turns out it appears to have made them stronger as compared to base line known figures for flexural strength. Now we will process and anneal an extra single sample at the correct time interval and send it to the lab for destrustive analysis comparing the results of the first test.
Here's what we have for flexural strength on the spotted seals compared to the origional material to give you an idea.
The origional material that has taken us to date is of exceptional quality bar none until recent developments. 99.9 % of the testing results and broken records outlined in this thread were achieved with this material. You all know how good it is.
Flexural strength on NRS origional grey material:
Approx 700 + MPa
Flexural strength on spotted samples (same material ErnieT is testing, no spots of course):
Over 950 MPa
Suffice to say Ernie exclusively has the strongest ceramic apex seals ever made!! For now that is, until the next batch is made. Unless someone can prove me wrong then I'll retract that statement
Happy trails, Sven
Just ran my new (new to me) annealing equipment for the first time. I made a programming error and the whole lot of 1 pc ceramic seals (2mm, 3mm & 12A) were annealed for approx 5 hours longer than they were supposed to
That's were the "near death experience" comes in. I could have killed myself!! (just kidding, that would never happen) Anyways, the parts took on a spotty look to them. As if splatted with a paint brush. Essentially what appears to have happened is the origional tone of the part came back in spots due to the additional annealing time. The other areas of the seal lightened in color as it should but these origional color spots came back.
Needless to say, I won't be putting these out to general market. I know well enough that this cosmetic difference would only create problems for me and any users so I've recently decided not to even go there. If anyone see's the spots they would only question the products quality and strength as it appears different.
I certainly don't want to get into a situation where no matter the circumstances the seals take the blame for failure. So, I am having the entire order re-made.
As it turns out this is a blessing in disguise for more than one reason
In the same lot of parts I had some special material seals made (6 pcs 3mm 1pc) so I could see how I like it and they were not affected at all by the additional annealing time. The good news here is that this is the best material I've ever laid my eyes on. The 6 seals are absolutly perfect and are yet again even stronger than the improved material I've been raving about (hard to believe isn't it). Even though the material costs more I've decided that this is the material that all future seals will be made from. It's a no brainer for me, it's simply the best there is. I cant wait to begin testing on this material
Here comes the good part, I like to end on a positive note. We will learn a ton from this! I have sent some of the spotted samples to the lab for destructive analysis and the results are in. What we didn't know was if the additional annealing time would weaken or actually strengthen the part. We do know that annealing at the proper time interval will increase the strength but the question is what happens when you go longer. As it turns out it appears to have made them stronger as compared to base line known figures for flexural strength. Now we will process and anneal an extra single sample at the correct time interval and send it to the lab for destrustive analysis comparing the results of the first test.
Here's what we have for flexural strength on the spotted seals compared to the origional material to give you an idea.
The origional material that has taken us to date is of exceptional quality bar none until recent developments. 99.9 % of the testing results and broken records outlined in this thread were achieved with this material. You all know how good it is.
Flexural strength on NRS origional grey material:
Approx 700 + MPa
Flexural strength on spotted samples (same material ErnieT is testing, no spots of course):
Over 950 MPa
Suffice to say Ernie exclusively has the strongest ceramic apex seals ever made!! For now that is, until the next batch is made. Unless someone can prove me wrong then I'll retract that statement
Happy trails, Sven