dabigesii

iTrader: (4)

I've had my ALS seals in my motor for about 3 year now. I made 550+whp on a mustang dyno when I got it tuned back in the day. 50/50 water/meth. I beat on it every single time I drive it with no worries about the motor...the clutch on the other hand lol. It starts perfectly and quick in the morning and heated up. I don't know how many miles I've put on it, but it's a good bit. New Orleans to Houston multiple times, New Orleans to Dallas multiple times, a few trips to Florida. These seals and water/meth have literally been the best decisions I've ever made with the car.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

He runs the OMP with 2 cycle and premixes I think 1 oz or more per gallon of fuel.

He also runs windshield wiper fluid, not sure how much? He has a 7670 EFR turbo running like 25PSI.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

How many people have actually lost a motor to a stock seal breaking apart and going through a turbo or wrecking an engine?

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

If it's not the coolant seals letting go, it usually the apex seals chipping and gouging up the motor rendering everything useless. I've seen and heard it too many times.

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

so who here online has experienced this? any threads that I can read about.


I have seen more threads on here where people blow up engines within break in periods and people losing compression, etc, etc, etc

Almost all of these run non-oem seals. Perhaps the engine problems have nothing to do with the seals at all, perhaps they do? But they aren't oem seals.

I guess I am just a skeptic of a lot of these seals with not much R&D behind them being praised for how good they are, but the evidence not supporting it.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

Well, the rotary has it's bad reputation for a reason, and it's not from coolant seals letting go. The reason why a lot of people have tried different seals than OEM is because if they break they destroy the motor. Whereas a lot of these aftermarket seals wear the housings quicker, but won't break and take out everything else. So you are left with a motor that won't last as long, maybe 5 years instead of 10 but it won't have a random failure from a high knock event and will gradually lose power due to low compression. It's one or the other in a rotary, unless you're brave enough to run ceramic seals and have a bullet proof tune.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Any dyno numbers or trap speeds?

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Are you being serious? Ive torn down well over 100 REW engines where the stock seals chipped, cracked or exploded and it was past the break in stage. Back in the day it was common occurrence to watch someone install a midpipe on stock ecu and not correctly control boost and have this exact same thing happen. Search back 10 years ago on the forum. There was literally a thread every single week, that is what lead to all the aftermarket seals.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ It would be nice to finally start seeing some long term results from some of these seals. Anyone around got 50k+ on any aftermarket seal? My 91 verts got 45k on RA seals and has great compression. I may just start a dedicated thread on this.


Edit: I just put one up in the 3rd gen section.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/aftermarket-apex-seals-your-mileage-1067669/

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

I just sold a motor with approx 15-20k miles on RA super seals that made 525rwhp like a beast without a single hiccup.

I made 320rwhp all day every day for 6 years on a mazda reman. Motor had 80k miles on it when I swapped it to my fb. Still going strong.


Also just had my 20b built by Banzai with super seals. I plan on beating the **** out of that motor as well.

So many internet arm-chair quarterbacks on this forum. ALS vs RA, who gives a sh*t. Pick one. Put all this wasted effort and theorizing into useful thinking...fuel system, tuning, etc.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

I give a sh*t. Because this is one of the best resources to put information people have learned over the years. It would be stupid to not learn from others mistakes. What good is a tune if your seals gouge up your housings or break and destroy your motor. But it's your money, do as you please with it .

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

RA seals are not a mistake. ALS seals are not a mistake. Therefore, it all comes down to tuning.

People here bash one without trying the other. That's the point. They are both tried and true, pick one.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ This!

vrx8

iTrader: (18)

Subscribed

I love my ALS I have been beating on them for the past 2 years. Still starts like day one. On my very first engine build watching DVDs. Dynoed at 460@18psi just recently now running 23.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Could you post some info on the thread I created on the above link?

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

Rxparts.com
Then RA super seals
Then E&j/ALS

They all can warp, some do better in certain applications.
With a great tuner anything will be sufficient, seals are not the secret ingredient trust me

t-von

iTrader: (8)

They are when that perfect tune goes lean due to failed fuel pump or clogged injector. Which seal would you rather have in the engine when one of those 2 things fail you while under boost? Damn sure NOT the stock apex seal.

Barry Bordes

For the new guys.... This is why they warp or break.

https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...s-fail-866513/

This is how to stop it.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...em-fix-989811/






50k miles on stock seals.

Hundreds of 3rd gear pulls to 8000 rpm while testing.

Notice it is "as removed", no clean-up.

Barry