I just quickly looked through all the pages... VERY nice build!!


One question: Why no turbo??

-Ben

 

Ha! I like that little pic, As for the reason for no turbo, I want to build something i can literally go out and beat the **** out of and not even have to look at the guages. Fot this i went with a fuel injection setup with no turbo. If you look closely there are no regular hoses. all braided with fittings and belts will be a double belt pulley for water and crank. Twin fuel pumps and a nice oversized 4.5 gallon sump tank with not one, but 2 huge 34 row oil coolers.

 

Huge is an understatement, HAHA. I'm still jealous though, very nice work. Can't wait to see what this thing will be able to do.

 

As of this past saturday, the engine was broken in nicely. Sounds Awsome and made real good torque on the engine dyno. I have to say that Carlos Lopez has come up with a really productive combination to make these 2 rotor pp engines make all this power. Now that the engine is in the car, we will be making the engine harness and finalizing the little things left to have this car on the homestead speedway for the July 14-16 farausa.com race. Slowly but surely after a little over a year. this project will be comming together.

Thanks to all for all your ideas and support
And a special Thanks to Carlos Lopez from CLR Motorsports for this awsome engine pakage he has put together.
And a big Thanks from the bottom of my heart to Al Delrisco From BMF Racing for all his fabrication and technical ideas that have made it possible to have this project become a reality.

 

It is going to need that much oil cooling? Damn real nice and clean though.

 

What kind of dyno numbers did you pull?

 

^^ +1...

Dyno numbers please...

Really looks great!

 

Oops, just noticed your 500+ hp in your sig...

Great Job!

 

Those numbers are from his turbo car. There is no way an NA 2 rotor will put down 500rwhp

 

the more oil cooling, the better.


track cars have far greater cooling system demands than street cars, I don't think that's overkill.

maybe close though, those ARE pretty big :P

 

Even if it pulls 300+ whp on the dyno, I'm sure it will be peaky. If not, I will seriously consider dumping my single turbo to go 13B PP! Please post the dyno when you can.

 

PP's can make any where from 270 up to 350 depending on a few variables. Keep in mind that the 350 figure will come from an engine that shifts at 11k (pure drag engine). Very very peaky with virtually no REAL streetability in the low to mid range. It all depends on what you want out of the engine.

 

Thank you. I want a nice streetable 300 hp NA engine. That means 20B, I guess.

 

+12312893425

LETS SEE THE DYNO NUMBERS!!


-Ben

 

one thing that caught my eye was the full metal pipe from engine to radiator... i would think that any engine movement or vibration will break that pipe and destroy your pretty new engine in a hurry

 

your right there is full aluminum pipe between the engine and radiator. but, if you look closer, you will also see Adel Wiggins clamps at these points. The clamps are used for these purposes where you need a tight yet flexible seal. they work with o-rings and will allow a work flex of about 1/4 inch. more than enough for a motor that has solid aluminum motor mounts bolted to 3/8 solid steel plates to the subframe.

 

Rob,did you had the car inspected already?Is the installation of the ATL fuel cell "legal" ?thank you in advance.

 

This is an awesome project, I'm sure your an inspiration to many do it (mostly) yourselfers out there. I hope you do well and dont get dragged down by the time it takes to do it, It looks great!

Awesome.

 

Are you using the FD tranny and rear? Any changes to gearing?

 

Edit.

Just found the power to weight.

6.7

 

Rob,
If you don't mind, where did you get the hatch and the rear window? It's been in my "to do list" for some time...
cheers

and here are the Carbon Fiber Hood and Hatch.



I have the FAL Poly carb rear window on the way and it should be here by mid next week. I should also have the brakes in by Friday.[/QUOTE]

 

The hatch was purchased on e-bay. you may have to do a good search for anyone who carries it or you may have to call to see if they have one on the way from outside the country, your best bet is to pay for it so that it secures that you will get it when they get here. my friend has been trying to find a CF hatch for his project now for almost 6 months. as for the Poly rear window, its made by FAL who are the same people who make flexalite fans. go to summit racing and get thier number there then call them for a price and a local dealer. i paid about 215.00 for mine but i heard they have gone up quite a bit since then.

 

I bought my rear hatch from VIS racing,they had it in stock.
3 days delivery.
I bought also the FAL from Summit;delivery took almost 2 months.
I bought windshield and side passenger Lexan from HRP World.

 

wow, that's crazy! Nice work.

 

looks awsome .great work