Hi guys,

I'm getting my car tuned this Saturday and I would like any sort of tips before I go please.

My mods are as follows:

Stock sequential twins
Stock ignition system
Stock fuel system
Stock ports
RA SuperSeals
Free Flow exhaust without any catalytic converters
Opened up intake with 2 x BMC cone filters
Greddy FMIC turned into a V-Mount
Power FC

I will be using 95 RON which I believe is equivalent to 91 AKI

I am wanting to up my boost to make more power.

What sort of injector duty cycles should I be maxing out at?

What sort of maximum boost should I be pushing safely?

What sort of power should I expect?

I have still got all my emissions jazz on my motor besides from the airpump, should I disable it on FC-edit without removing it?

What sort of AFR's should I be trying to achieve?

Anything else I might have missed?

Thanks in advance!

Luke

 

Mid to high 10s AFRs you may need to limit boost short of what you would like as the turbos can flow more air near a bar boost than the factory fuel system can keep up with if your exhaust is good.

get fine wire irridium plugs, if you do run decent boost it will probably missfire on standard ignition system mine did but that was on about 0.95 bar boost you would probably max out your injectors before that.

I suggest a surge tank/pump upgrade and at least bigger secondaries. A lower temp thermostat and lowering the fan switch points makes a difference to bottom end torque too.

 

Hi Slides,

Thanks for the input.

I got my car tuned and made 280WHP at 0.9 bar. A bit disappointed as my stock ecu made the same amount of power. Although I do feel that the tune wasn't good as my PFC is displaying a lot of knock.

I was running out of fuel on the Dyno as well so next up is bigger injectors and fuel pump.

I have now installed a wideband and boost controller and am going to try tune it myself rather than someone else.

 

post your dyno sheet

 

Red lines are current, Black lines were higher boost..

 

Looks like ignition break up at around 5500rpm, it is running dangerously lean beyond 5000rpm. I would start by installing a better fuel pump and a HKS twin power (if you can find one used)

Any idea what your injector duty cycle was?

You might want to look through this thread I made, stock to 340rwhp. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...added-1104322/

 

The tuner said it was boost causing the fluctuations.. He was playing around with the boost duty on the PFC and it helped a bit but in the end we had to lower the boost in order for it to stabilise..

I am not 100% what it was but I recall it being high, somewhere in the 90's

I'm looking for a pump that is a straight drop in where I don't have to cut up any wires or damage any original components. Do you know of one that you could suggest?

I can email you my PFC map if you would like to have a look at it and tell me what you think?

Thanks for the help and the thread, I will have a look at it.

 

Looks like either detonation or ignition break up causing the fluctuations, not boost. Just look at the AFRs, 13.2, 13.4 even the dyno says you are way too lean, giving red numbers.

These cars rev way past 6000rpm. Look at the dyno sheets in the thread I linked to.

Denso TT pump is the only pump that is a drop in without cutting wires. Denso Pumps. Walbro 255 comes with everything needed for installation, but two wires are cut and crimped. Walbro Pumps

Just post up your map as a .dat file.

 

Yeah, I'm not happy with the AFR's, I've already got fuel rails, now just deciding on 550/1600 or 550/2000 injectors.. I'm trying to source a Twin Power as well..

I've installed a wideband since and would like to do some logging.

I've attached my map as a .rar file as it doesn't allow me to attach a .dat file. Again, thanks for the help.

 

 

I have found Bosch Injectors with a part number 0280158821 But I have heard that these injectors shouldn't be used with petrol/gasoline. Is this correct? Would I be making a mistake by getting these?


I have also already got a primary rail so I might as well replace the primary injectors at the same time. Would these be okay to use? They are also high impedance so the Power FC would be okay with them too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Bos...4383.l4275.c10

Also, I have uploaded my map to Google Drive. Below is the download link.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wU...l5kmxVgNMkp0GO

 

Buy injectors that fit whatever rails you bought.

The map is garbage. They actually took out up to 36% of the fuel in boost on the correction screen, then put back 5% of the fuel at every rpm from 2000-8000 on the inj/adjust page 3. Left O2 feedback control on. For whatever reason drastically changed the offset for the stock map sensor. Add to that a ton of negative split at cruise.

You would have more available fuel with the default base map that came preloaded. They did nothing to the idle and cruise portion, only pulled out fuel where you need it most. Initialize all, then go in and change the fan temps to turn the fans on earlier.

Fuel injectors Injector Dynamics Injectors, I would never install a $21 injector in anything that I care about.

 

Im looking to do this set up in january

2000cc secondaries with railk and fpr. I get confuesed when i see whats on the market. What would you recommend as an affordable kit these day. Something to just upgrade the secondary rail to what you have recomended in your post?

 

It appears that your turbo transition at 4500 rpm sucks.
Caused by boost dropping off too much.
You need to fix that before doing too much more AFR tuning.