After going back and forth for a few months, I've finally decided to bite the bullet and swap my 94 RX7. I got the car last october after selling my 05 STi. It's a very very fun car but I just think swapping it will be a better way to make the kind of power I want!

On with the build...

I'm going to be using all tech2 swap parts, a stock usdm 2jz longblock, 74gts and tons of bolt ons.

I have about 75% of the parts at this point and I will soon be finishing up ordering everything!

Anyway, here are some pics to start the thread off!

I found my motor on Supraforums the sunday night before christmas at , 8AM the monday morning I was on the phone with the seller and at 12PM that same day I was on my way from baltimore to miami to pick her up.








A quick stop by titan to blow some money



My method of transportation






FYI, the amount of ghetto involved in the transportation of this motor does not mean this will be a hack job swap :p

Last but not least, the car!

 

A couple parts pics + some of the work I've got around to so far




After day 1









New Water pump, pulleys, cam gears. This was a few days before I got my SP oil pump on

 

Nice documentation Good luck with your swap!

 

so what will you do about the bump steer?! bwaaahhhhhahahahahahahah i had to say it man! do answer that question.
looks like a fun road trip. the sound of the hatch being open down the road would have drove me nuts.
any questions feel free to ask.

 

Hehe
As long as he uses their cradle and hood(or hood with similar clearance) there will be no bumpsteer issue.

 

nice build. a friend has used the tech 2 swap kit for his rx7. the 2jz fits perfect.
he just has to have his exhaust maded and intercooler piping.
he his using the the 2jz 6spd tranny. which tranny are you using?

 

you better take some good videos of this car after its done. No ***** **** videos ok :-)
I am getting this done to my fd soon I hope.

 

Yeah that bump steer man, I'm beating my head on the wall trying to think of a solution

The sound of the hatch didn't bother me, but the sound of open header due to the fact that my exhaust was taking out the reflectors in between the lane dividers in the roads got to me, had to take it off in a walmart parking lot with a POS jack and mini wrench set they had.

Now that, truly sucked.

 

Their will be tons and tons of videos, you can hold me to that.

 

Awesome man, I'm going to be using a martin crawler built r154 this seaon than going 6spd next winter

 

Just curious what your estimated budget is for this project and what are your goals

 

Estimated budget is going to be right around 15k, I will be doing all the work myself except the last IC pipe fab along with the exhaust fab.

My goals for this year are to get the car up and running, working all of the kinks out, I'm going to be running 100% stock longblock including stock cams, I know it works so I'm not touching it until the car is all sorted out, I'm also going to be running 1 denso FP for now, as dual pumps or a monster fuel setup is just more to sort out right now.

For this season on the r154, i'll be happy with the r154, I'll be happy with 575-600HP and a high 10 second pass. Next season, I'll be going 6spd, having the car caged, doing a monster fuel system and pushing the 74mm as far as I can, which should, note that I said SHOULD give me the numbers to make it into the high 9's. However having those numbers on paper and actually pulling it off of course, are 2 very different things.

I'd say my ultimate goal though, is to have a reliable (for what it is) 800-850HP car that is capable of a 9 second pass.

 

will your hood close with your kit? If not, what are you going to do? Buy a 1000 one from tech2? or have a shop pull it out?

I have my rb25 in my fd now with my new custom subframe that fits in the stock position, but I don't know what to do about hood....

 

I'm up in the air between the scoot hood and the tech2 hood, if it comes down to it, I don't have a problem buying tech2's hood.

I might buy a spare stocker and try to have it pulled to put off buying the tech2 for a while.

 

Thats one of the problems I will have too. Dont really want to shell out 1k for a hood. Maybe some sort of scoop on the stock one?

 

I've browsed the 2jz swap forum for awhile. Is there really no way to fit the 2jz without cutting/modding the hood? That's a deal killer for me on any vehicle.

 

Is dropping the steering rack really that big of a problem? Cant you just extend the links to the knuckles and return the geometry pretty much to stock? Im talking about for a street car, not a circuit racer or anything.

How was your car Roachdiddy? I know your motor wasnt sticking out of your hood?

 

Its an extremely bad idea to mess with the steering geometry(lowering the subframe) I made this mistake when I made the first subframe for my car, I used aluminum stock to space the subframe down. You end up with way to much caster and some bumpsteer. I would rather pay a few more bucks for an aftermarket hood then not be able to control my car...

 

doesnt tech2 still use a bumpsteer kit?

 

NO Bumpsteer = NO bumpsteer kit

Here's what their site says:

The kit is designed to work for 2JZGTE and 1JZGTE motors with a R154 transmissions. This RX7 FD3S Swap Kit puts the motor as low and as far back as possible in the engine bay. You do not have to modify the chassis to install this motor swap into your car. All of the factory pick up points on the suspension remain intact as well as the steering rack location

 

you can use a kit or just buy extended tie rod ends, but that does not fix your problem all the way, that just helps bump-steer which is not even your biggest problem you still get caster to the point where it can't be adjusted depending on how much the tech2 kit brings down the subframe. Im not saying it can't be corrected but you will need to find someone who knows what they are doing and end up speeding as much as a tech 2 hood.

 

Well, yeah. Spacers are going to jack it all up. Im talking about leaving everything where it is and then just moving the rack. Then, adjusting the tie rods at the knuckle to restore OEM geometry. EVerything will be the same, including adjustability.

I have a hard time understanding how this will affect anything.

 

Either the steering rack gets lowered and you deal with bumpsteer, or you leave the rack where it's supposed to be and you get a Tech2 hood or one with similar clearance to compensate for th JZ motors' height. You can try setting the motor further back into the firewall as another member on this forum did, but that still seemed to require a bulge on the factory hood to gain some clearance.

 

that turbo is bigger then a 13B LOL. I have never seen this done... cant wait to see more

 

Started tearing down the rx7 a little bit today, I'll be posting up more pics once I get ready to pull the motor