In case it's not clear, the earlier 2.5 and 3.0 Duratec V6 engines share nothing with the later 3.5 and 3.7 Cyclone engines besides being 60 degree V6 engines. No accessories, no heads, no pistons, no nothing - totally different design, Ford just called them both "Duratec" at some point.

This is all really great info, I'd love to drop a 3.7 into something small and lightweight. I've found conflicting info about engine weights. I have a 660lb crane scale that I've used to weigh engines and transmission before. If someone would be willing to weigh a loaded engine complete with accessories and wiring and everything I'd be more than willing to cover shipping of the scale each way.

 

How are everyone's projects coming along?

I bought myself a 3.7 to swap into my latest project car. Here's the weight without flywheel/clutch, or accessories. Includes TB, intake, exhaust headers, water pump, just as you see it here, plus 7 pounds of chains. 360-7 = 353lbs.







The MT-82 with shifter comes in at 127lb dry.



I anticipate with accessories, clutch, and flywheel the full drivetrain will be around 550lbs.

For comparison, an all-aluminum LS1 and T56 combo weighs just over 600lbs.

 

Great information. I think the only acc you absolutely have to run is an alt.

 

Yep, planning to maintain stock electric power steering. I am planning to keep AC working, too. My current V8-swapped M3 doesn't have AC (because racecar) and it makes it less than pleasant as a real, usable DD, so the next car gets to keep AC.

The Coyote flywheels and clutches will work on the V6. I ordered a 14lb lightweight unit from RAM for $350 since I didn't get the stock assembly. The stock dual mass flywheel is around 33lbs, so this should make things quite a bit snappier. The flywheel can accept the 10.5" V6 clutch or the 11" Coyote clutch. I haven't decided which to go with yet.

 

I have the GT flywheel in mine with a 1 inch slave cylinder spacer and a spec stage 1

 

That's good info - I wasn't sure how much of a spacer I need. Did you buy something premade or do your own?

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-78514
Fits perfectly

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

Hey All,

I have read this forum a couple of times and I am interested in doing this engine swap to my 03 Subaru Forester. It will not be for awhile yet but I was curious if any of you guys using the automatic trans. have done so with select shift (manual mode)?

Thanks,
Masock

 

Would you be converting the Forester to RWD? The auto trans is a Ford 6R80. You may be able to make it work with the factory ECU if you feed it all of the special signals that it needs. You can also get a standalone controller for the 6R80 from US Shift. The controller and wiring harness will run about $1250. That would let you do whatever you want with shifting manually.

If you're worried about converting an automatic car to manual, I'd say that would be a lot cheaper than buying the auto trans controller.

 

Yes I would be converting the car to RWD. I am still thinking through everything, but the idea is new front cradle and suspension, new rear cradle and suspension (both probably from a Mustang), and new engine and trans. I like the idea of having an automatic, but being able to "shift" it when I want to play around. I use/ and would use the car for daily driving. I am not opposed to going manual (at one time thinking that it was how I was going to go), but if the select shift works it seems like the best of both worlds. Sounds like it could be more costly though.

I also plan to reuse the Subaru stuff for a buggy or some sort of off-roader. Not that it matters for this.

 

If cost is a concern, I'm sure there are much more cost effective ways to get 300hp into a Subaru, likely with parts that just bolt on. I'd never discourage someone from doing a fun engine swap, though.

 

Well from poking around the Subaru forums the NA EJ-25 engines are not good for building power. If I had a turbo one, that would be a different story. I am basically stuck swapping for something else, plus it is kinda the car I do dumb stuff too. Right now it is 3 colors and the back most 3 windows are slowly getting covered with stickers.... I got the car for $300 because it toasted all the valves when a timing belt broke. Got it going and looking into stuff for the future.

I was just making the comment on it being more costly. Right now this is a ways out, but I wanted to get the wheels turning a come up with a project cost. I am sure it will decide later what is more valuable to me later.

 

Motor weights:
2011 mustang v6, exhaust manifolds, alt and ac comp, dual mass flywheel, motor mounts, minus upper intake manifold and throttle body = 423.2lbs

2013 rwd trans with 5.0 gt flywheel, spec stage 1 clutch, 1 inch slave space, slave cyl , rwd oil pan, 2013 fwd edge motor, rwd intake, full acc(alt, ps pump, ac comp)= 557.5 lbs
2011 mt82 alone with slave cyl no spacer = 128.7lbs

 

 

Strangely I can't upload pictures atm, i think it's because they're 103mp 22mb pictures(too large).
anyways, the 2013 mustang gt 5.0 flywheel weighs 21.3lbs and the 2011 v6 dual mass weighs 32.6lbs.
for comparison a ram clutches "lightweight" steel flywheel weighs 27lbs
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ram-clut...-2017/p/MTF99/

 

I went with the RAM 2545, weighs only 13lbs.

https://ramclutches.com/product/2545/

 

That's alluminum 2 piece. I meant the info as a cheaper lighter alternative to the dual mass setup.

 

It's tricky because going with the Coyote flywheel means moving up to an 11" clutch vs. the stock V6 10.5" clutch. The pressure plate of the 11" clutch is probably a little heavier than the 10.5".

I went back and forth on what to use with my lightweight flywheel as it has bolt patterns for both sizes, but ended up going 11" because for the same power rating the 11" was much cheaper.

 

Oh, and if anyone wants a 2012 Mustang 3.7 complete with wiring harness let me know, it's for sale.

I also have a set of BBK shorty headers and a BBK 73mm throttle body for sale as well.

 

Im using a spec stage 1 clutch. I have the stock unit as well if you want me to weigh em this weekend to compare. The spec is rated to 575lb-ft torque iirc.

 

It'd be interesting to see the weight difference, data is always fun.

Looks like SPEC only sells the 11" version and just tells you to buy their GT flywheel if you want to use it on a V6.

 

Think you could do me a favor and measure your shorty headers from flange face to furthest point girth wise? I wanna see how much they stick off the heads. Curious to know if they'd fit a 3.7 swapped fc

 

Sure! I'll try and get that tonight!

 

Passenger side is 4-5/8" at its widest, driver's side is 4-7/8".