RX7 struts in an RX2
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RX7 struts in an RX2
Ok I have been waiting for a response at vintagerotaries and getting nothing. I know there are a lot of people here that might have some info for me. I have an 84 GSL parts car that I am going to take the front suspension off of. I want to use the struts in my Deuce. To make it work I need a spacer to bolt the strut to the steering arm. I was hoping someone here might have a pic of said spacer? I might be able to figure it out when I get in to tearing apart the cars. but I would like to have it figured out before hand if I can.
#2
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I did the same swap into my RX-3. It has coilovers and I put the 7 lower control arms in the car. Some one was asking this question a couple of months ago about an RX-3. I posted photos of my car in that thread, try a search or just look in the older threads in this section.
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Its a nice idea, but I am trying to simplify with more common parts. RX3 parts are just as hard to find as the RX2 parts. Thanks for the suggestion though.
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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The part you need is a specific year rx4 steering arm. It has the same ball joint taper as the rx2 but the bolt pattern of the rx7 housing. Just as hard to find as well since not all year rx4's had the correct part.
The option listed on vintagerotaries is a "roll center" spacer the has offset holes. Two for mounting to the strut housing and two that mount to the steering arm. The holes were offset so the bolts do not interfere. If offset correctly then you would add camber (and caster if you like).
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
#7
InsaneRotaries.com
The rx3 ball joint has a different taper than the rx2.
The part you need is a specific year rx4 steering arm. It has the same ball joint taper as the rx2 but the bolt pattern of the rx7 housing. Just as hard to find as well since not all year rx4's had the correct part.
The option listed on vintagerotaries is a "roll center" spacer the has offset holes. Two for mounting to the strut housing and two that mount to the steering arm. The holes were offset so the bolts do not interfere. If offset correctly then you would add camber (and caster if you like).
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
The part you need is a specific year rx4 steering arm. It has the same ball joint taper as the rx2 but the bolt pattern of the rx7 housing. Just as hard to find as well since not all year rx4's had the correct part.
The option listed on vintagerotaries is a "roll center" spacer the has offset holes. Two for mounting to the strut housing and two that mount to the steering arm. The holes were offset so the bolts do not interfere. If offset correctly then you would add camber (and caster if you like).
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
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#8
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The rx3 ball joint has a different taper than the rx2.
The part you need is a specific year rx4 steering arm. It has the same ball joint taper as the rx2 but the bolt pattern of the rx7 housing. Just as hard to find as well since not all year rx4's had the correct part.
The option listed on vintagerotaries is a "roll center" spacer the has offset holes. Two for mounting to the strut housing and two that mount to the steering arm. The holes were offset so the bolts do not interfere. If offset correctly then you would add camber (and caster if you like).
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
The part you need is a specific year rx4 steering arm. It has the same ball joint taper as the rx2 but the bolt pattern of the rx7 housing. Just as hard to find as well since not all year rx4's had the correct part.
The option listed on vintagerotaries is a "roll center" spacer the has offset holes. Two for mounting to the strut housing and two that mount to the steering arm. The holes were offset so the bolts do not interfere. If offset correctly then you would add camber (and caster if you like).
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
#13
I can haz rotary?
iTrader: (1)
Ok I have been waiting for a response at vintagerotaries and getting nothing. I know there are a lot of people here that might have some info for me. I have an 84 GSL parts car that I am going to take the front suspension off of. I want to use the struts in my Deuce. To make it work I need a spacer to bolt the strut to the steering arm. I was hoping someone here might have a pic of said spacer? I might be able to figure it out when I get in to tearing apart the cars. but I would like to have it figured out before hand if I can.
#16
Cali Maki OG
iTrader: (1)
Ok I have been waiting for a response at vintagerotaries and getting nothing. I know there are a lot of people here that might have some info for me. I have an 84 GSL parts car that I am going to take the front suspension off of. I want to use the struts in my Deuce. To make it work I need a spacer to bolt the strut to the steering arm. I was hoping someone here might have a pic of said spacer? I might be able to figure it out when I get in to tearing apart the cars. but I would like to have it figured out before hand if I can.
1st off, the RX3 steering arms (or steering knuckles) will not work at all. I got poor information from others and found out the hard way. From here and the AUSrotary site. No biggie, tends to happen on the mis-information super highway from time to time.
The RX3 ball joint has a different taper just as Billy said. Plus, where the tie rod would mount to the steering arm is flipped 180 degrees of how it should be for the RX2 steering to move without binding.
Maybe one day I'll find out 1st hand whether or not the RX4 steering arms will work but I just wanted to get my friend's car back on the road so here is what I did:
I made some adapter plates out of 1 3/8" steel and drilled 5 holes. 2 to mount to the RX2 steering arm, 1 to clear the nut on the ball joint, and 2 to mount bolts to the RX7 spindle.
Scott's White Liger after with RX7 front suspension, RX7 vented brakes, RX7 rebuilt calipers, all new bushings, ball joints and lots of swearing by me trying to find stuff out on my own! It drives great now and it's his daily commuter car.
#17
Cali Maki OG
iTrader: (1)
It runs a little negative camber with no pulling or crazy wear on the tires and is a HUGE improvement over the old rubbish that was in there. The only thing I don't like about the setup I did is it changed the offset which is okay for guys with high offset wheels but not for me. For my own RX2 coupe I'd like to keep the offset as close stock as possible so I can run the lowest offset possible in the future.
Using the 1st gen RX7 front suspension is GREAT since replacement insterts are easy to come by, better brake pad selection, vented discs, and best of all it's like running a short stroke setup for your RX2. Low ride height with full travel!
RX7 on left, RX2 on right
Look at the difference in discs! Not to mention the RX7 has heavier duty wheel bearings that can be sourced if need be.
Using the 1st gen RX7 front suspension is GREAT since replacement insterts are easy to come by, better brake pad selection, vented discs, and best of all it's like running a short stroke setup for your RX2. Low ride height with full travel!
RX7 on left, RX2 on right
Look at the difference in discs! Not to mention the RX7 has heavier duty wheel bearings that can be sourced if need be.
#19
Cali Maki OG
iTrader: (1)
The rx3 ball joint has a different taper than the rx2.
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
Another idea is a special lower control arm. We have looked into it and will probably head that route. Reason being is that the king pin inclination of the rx7 is less than the rx2 and rx3. The longer lower control arm will by default add to the static camber angle. So you do not end up with positive camber from the different inclination.
Seems like the best bet is to move away from the stock strut housings since the brakes are small, rotors are hard to find and the shock inserts are even harder.
-billy
I've spoke to you about a new moddified lower control arm and I'm all for it. Unfortunetely I'm too busy working on other cars lately and haven't touched my Coupe in a while. I'd still be more than happy to get you measurements if you need them but I still think it would be best if you had a test mule on-site.
I already have some new plans for a different design that will alow me to run the RX7 front spindle and keep my offset OEM or reallllly close to it. If you come out with those control arms though I'd get them in a heartbeat!
#20
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That is perfect, thank you so much. I was hunting around for damper options and saw how much cheaper the RX7 strut inserts are. The fact that they are shorter then the RX2 struts makes is even better for me. The car is already lowered, so a little extra travel will be nice. Thank you again.
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