nice work guys. i've been in rotaries for quite some time but still learning things when it comes to the turbo aspect of things. i've read lots of threads with the use of these serge tanks so what's the reason for using them? is it to optimize the fuel pressure for larger than stock turbos, and in ur case, the reason for using 2 pumps? also u do realize that a regular engine mount isolates the top and bottom mounting studs with rubber in between them. drilling a hole thru a hard piece of rubber and using a long bolt to sandwich that rubber between two washers really isn't isolating vibration between the engine and frame. i understand the more solid mounting aspect of the idea but just wondering if u guys realize why u'll be getting more vibration from it.

 

the surge tank is to prevent fuel starvation since carby fuel tanks dont have built in slosh cups like the t2 . so in this case we have a low psi high gph pump filling the the surge tank then it over flows back to the main tank. then after the surge you have a efi high psi pump feedin the injectors that retuns to the surge tank keeping it always full of gas.

my motor mounts were torn. and i found a cheap solution in the 1st gen section aparently people have been doing this method for some time and have had great results

 

Yes, hockey puck motor mounts. I installed a set in PercentSevenC's REPU and will do the same in mine when the new engine goes in. Thread in the 1st gen section. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/aftermarket-motor-mounts-who-sells-them-861757/

 

thats a kool repu

i kant make a new post can somone help me

 

thanks for the comment

heres a picture of my new intake compresion tube need to mod it to work how i want it .i positioned it like this for future intercooler pipeing.



im thinking of cutting it around the blue line area and have it fabbed to work.should turn out good i think.

 

i wanted to get one of these there was one down in the bay area for about 2k i think i shoulda got it when i had the chance,, but parts would hav prob been a b**** to get
O well im happy with my Fb

 

i miss my fb i sold it to do this project lol

 

almost 98% done on all wiring took out all unnecessary stuff i don't need now it look much better



finally got my ducting into the machine shop to get made up. ill post pics on thursday.

 

Nice work on cleaning up the wire harness.

 

No dont cut it up, you can use the Greddy compression tube for Rx7 87-92 and make an plate to so you can get the right angle facing forward. I've done this before on a rotary 510 and work's well. as soon as my wife get's off my computer I'll dig up the pictures and post it.

 

Here's pictures of the compressor tube with an adapter plate I made for this rotary datsun 510. I then used a 45 degree elbow for the IC pipe, this would be a great alternative.

 

almost there

 

Just curiously, how does one say "repu"?

Is it "reh-poo"? "ree-pyoo"? "reh-pyoo"?

 

its looking good blwfly,the repu i been working on got it running,that dam truck runs sick,super fast for a stock TII motor,the only thing i got to figure out is where to mount a dam intercooler the stock top mount is not getting air.

 

theres a forum member with a repu and a fd motor his fmic is behind his valance im gonna copy

 

i seen one run it also behind the front valance,but he was using a 79 rx7 radiator,which is shorter for that extra clearance at the bottom.

 

It's "rhee-poo", as in "to poo again".

 

Looking real good

 

so it looks like the conections in my maf were seperated so a little solder will fix that. hope it works.

 

heres my intake efbow

 

I pronounce it ari-piyu.

Nice elbow! What thread pitch did you have to cut for the air temp sensor?

 

that sounds southern
thanks for the comment.
not sure on thread pitch ill ask for ya on monday.

now i need a silicone reducer that will work for 2" 3/4+ and 3" 1/8+ and have found ones at autozone that are 2" 3/4 to 3" i think it will strech then maybe a support bracket for the afm to the engine.

 

cleaned my manifolds up a bit also made a bracket for the afm so it wont vibrate like before.and its more level to the ground aswell.

 

I should have spelled it aripiyu as one word without the hyphen, because that's how I say it. I pronounce each letter in succession without pausing. Makes the most sense to do it that way. Or I say rotary truck. Whichever suits the situation best.

 

well the truck is still having the same problem. it idles then dies so i have purchase a boost leak tester to test for vaccum leaks


im hoping its a vac leak