gerald m

Bumpstart one of the guys a another forum suggested that I take the flat edge off the divided housing to help prevent a hot spot and help prevent heat erosion of the divider . sounds reasonable to me and will count as the turbo being modded in someway , sounds like a good idea to me . any thoughts ??

bumpstart

dont think it will matter much either way .. i expect exhaust to hit 1000 C pre turbo .. but it isnt there for long..

gerald m

HUMMMM 1000 deg c, by god mate I will be able to make a we spot of tea after my runs . what more could anyone ask for .

Aaron Cake made a pretty nice guard for his turbo maybe he will make me one for an early Christmas present ,

I think the flat spot with the red dot would be ok for drain tapped to 1/8 NPT . ??

bumpstart

oil pump just behind there...no good .. . have a look just below the OMP

most go in there horizontally , but on the leg at the bottom of the timing cover under the OMP is a section where you can tap in at 45 degrees

else you can put it into the top of the sump though it may cost you access to one or two sump blots

bumpstart

PS.. if removing timing cover,, be aware of the "torrington trap" ( google )

gerald m

cover removal will be my very last resort . To my surprise after rebuild the engine is totally leak free and me thinks if removed there will be a leak somewhere and that just wouldn't sit very well .

I think I know where you mean , might need to remove OMP and possibly water pump to get at it nice and straight but I can live with that . I don't think the filer tube is an option anymore as the turbo (( I like where it is )) is a little low and would drain almost horizontal , would like it as vertical as possible . As fare as the feed I got that cased will use nice steel braid with proper fittings , same as the reg coolant hoses I took them off and hid them . I go braided there also maybe a spring inside . the other from under the oil filter is tight and hard to shape . My chum just used some nice stainless braid and it bends in about a 3 inch radius so I figure the extra is worth it .

Seems the further along we go here I get more picky what I do . Sorry it has gotten to be a tad more than just a simple project hope I;m not pissing ya of too bad . I suppose it's not to early to tell ya that your name will appear on the Dragon like it or not .

bumpstart

lets wait till it starts to win again

gerald m

It will start . and we will win . No fear boss it's a winner . so long as we don't splode it and if we do well we still got #1 engine he's good . But all joking aside I do have a very good chance of winning some pretty good charity money this year . I just want the trophy the money can go to a home of some kind for children . That's what the goal behind the scenes is and were almost there another month or so . There is a local younger guy here that does a lot of motocross competition he's interested in being a pilot He's sort of a no fear kid I think he could handle it well ..

bumpstart

awesome

gerald m

Most of the stuff ready for the turbo mod . Have looked at many sets of gates and bov . the 44 mm. waste gate and 50 mm bov seem to be popular . I like the v band set ups . done lots of reading but different apps seem to require different sizes .. Any thoughts ?

for my tether switch I figured I would interrupt the signal from the coil to the cp-30 instead of mucking about with the dist. signal .

bumpstart

sounds good .. as long as it kills fuel and not ignition
( as this causes inlet manifold backfires on LPG vapour )

25 mm stock standard rx7 BOV will work just fine.. as long as it is OK.. i much prefer the OEM ones over china ones that tend not to keep a seat long

a BOV is totally necessary on a blow through vapour mixer setup and dumps pressure from the turbo discharge pipe back the the turbo inlet
( cant be open vented as it will contain LPG fuel vapours )

wastegate wise.. most of them are V clamp .. and you will need a big one because you have high exhaust temps ( and energy ) and require only low to moderate boost

a single 44 mm is the minimum size you will get away with , and will rely heavily on ideal placement to prevent overboost
and i would err more at 50 mm .. and run it with the lowest rating spring setup
with a tee and bleed setup ( requires a needle valve ) so that you can wind the boost up as the tune progresses

tuning wise you need to start with boost set low,, and dizzy set conservatively

the pulley will need some helper marks at 10 and 25 BTDC
.. and the engine revved no load to 4000 rpm to see how far it will advance when set at around 10 BTDC idle base timing

the engine then revved to 6000 and note taken to see if your modules advance or retard timing slightly with revs
( this needs to be known so we can identify the best setup strategy )

being a non retard dizzy then if the modules retard then we can partly lock the dizzy , aiming for 10 idle up to around 18 degrees at 4000 rpm and run around 10 -14 psi boost

or if they advance slightly then we can fully lock it at 15 for idle and load and allow some scope for the modules to move timing at higher revs

if you can find a genuine 12at boost retard dizzy ( the vac modules have little set screws on the ends ) then we can allow the dizzy to run 10 - 23 ish degrees and get best timing across all the rev and boost range

gerald m

I did mod my primary clutch with heavier spring and also honed out the weights where they sit on the rollers so me thinks the engine will probably hit close to 3500 before the clutch engages , Depending on where the clutch jumps in but will hit the belt quite hard and hopefully keep it from slipping ..

If things get to harry I will go down a spring size or two but I think to make use of the upper power band we will need to have the clutch starting around the 3500 mark and then go up till the max clutch is achieved , if the clutch engages to fast the sheaves will have full movement before the engine reaches full rpm .

what I am hoping for is to be able to set the wastegate and BOV at what ever they needs so the boost pressure is where I need it to be so that I can run at WOT right from the starting line (( Much easier than feathering the throttle and milking it )) then I will turn up the boost as I get more comfortable with the rocket effect . When the bike starts to feel a tad unstable at the rear that is where I want it .

The only reason I mention this is wondering if the difference of engagement RPM's will effect your plan for timing .

bumpstart

by lowest spring.. i meant in the wastegate.. should come with various single and double spring combos to adjust its basic opening point

you can add to that point ( increasing boost ) by using a tee and needle valve and thus bypassing some of the boost signal to other side of the control diaphragm

if you are letting go at 3500 rpm then it may be best to first gauge if the modules have a natural retard or advance, then lock the dizzy and place it somewhere 15 - 18 BTDC

basically 27 BTDC - ( B ).. then add + 2 = timing ( where B = boost in psi ) is a conservative formula for 98 octane fuels
it will be a little on the aggressive side with high comp rotors but you will find you have both water injection and a RON number more likely between 100 and 104 that will pull a safety factor in your margins

gerald m

Just thought I should mention it so were both on the same page . Don't really know if it will work proper that way . just need to play with it a bit and then should be able to tweak things from there . Might end up getting a set of adjustable clutch weights , a little pricy but then it would have an infinite setting for what ever we want .

Haven't done anything for timing marks yet will get to it soon .

gerald m

Just a short video on the mixer fitment

bumpstart

that looks great,,not far to go now !!
thinking the 90 turn on the turbo delivery pipe could be done entirely with a silicon elbow .. and yes 1000 celcius under 1 bar boost
( sans water injection )

bumpstart

PS.. not sure how you are equalising the fuel cylinders, but maybe do it without venting , just hose to hose
( maybe putting the BBQ cylinder upside down and higher than other vessel )
i expect it only partially fills them but it rules out getting oxygen drawn into the LPG vessel

it is something that should be asked and fully nutted on the LPG forum..

im sure that when our local LPG guy gets called out to fix one that has run out on the side of the road
he has hose from discharge of full one to filler of other , no vent , and ends up with only a partial fill

gerald m

Yea I have a 90 deg. elbow on order it should be here in a week or so . Maybe i tad short on the turbo end but maybe can add a piece in . see what happens might need to order one with a longer 2 inch end .

Ordered a oil feed and drain kit for turbo also kit includes a pill to keep turbo from over oil pressure (( YES or NO )) .

So we talked earlier about a light vacuum to the bottom end to help turbo drain . I take it that would need to go into air intake pre turbo and could use vent tube from oil filler neck or the one in the iron just behind filler . that way no catch can if I ever run on 1/4 mile .

They don't like to discuss my unorthodox fuel vessels on the propane forum , I guess they are worried some other dam fool might try my methods and blow his self up but I will PM randy and see what he has to say even the videos I upload have been edited so no one can copy .

IMO my vessels are safer than a propane tank any day . That said I don't see a problem filling so long as my big fill tank is same temp . I tried to fill with vent closed and after a bit there is no flow as soon as I crack the vent it starts to flow again . I trimmed the the vent tube shorter in relation to size and volume to a 20 lb. tank . so it fills to about 2 .5 inches from top of neck you can feel the cold on the aluminum bottle for sure they get full to the point that I allow them . I confident that we will have no propane tank problems what so ever , the hutterites are going to build me mounts for the vessels when they do the exhaust . NEXT major buy will be some kind of tig welder so I can make my own stuff .

Some one sent me a PM from Regina he has a greddy BOV for sale don't know size or anything yet . I asked him to upload to this thread so you can have a look .

bumpstart

pill = no ( it is for ball bearing turbos )..

drain ..stock = 19 mm

for sump vacuum take it from the nipples provided on filler neck to the air filter
if you wish to minimise carry over,, instead tap a new hose fitting into the filler lid and run from that

for BOV it needs to be a plumb-back type

gerald m

The tether switch is not going to work for the cp-30 as the switch has continuity when the tether is pulled and none when the switch in operating position . so I will need to find a different way around that .. the tethers are made to ground the signal from the ignition to kill it .

bumpstart

use the tether to swing the earth on a crossover relay ( 5 pin relay with 87 and 87 A pins )

the relay then interupts the source of signal to the cp 30

ie

signal from coil runs normally through pin 87 , out through pin 30 to cp-30

( pin 87 , or pin 87a , whichever has the continuation to pin 30 when the relay is disabled )

when the tether is pulled .. the earth is made on the relay and so it throws to the other 87 pin ( that is otherwise not continous to pin 30 )

the signal to the cp30 is then broken and the fuel cut

gerald m

[QUOTE=bumpstart;11733722]use the tether to swing the earth on a crossover relay ( 5 pin relay with 87 and 87 A pins )

the relay then interupts the source of signal to the cp 30

ie

signal from coil runs normally through pin 87 , out through pin 30 to cp-30

( pin 87 , or pin 87a , whichever has the continuation to pin 30 when the relay is disabled )

when the tether is pulled .. the earth is made on the relay and so it throws to the other 87 pin ( that is otherwise not continous to pin 30 )

the signal to the cp30 is then broken and the fuel cut[/QUOTe


Yea I knew you were going to say that , Guess I can't avoid a relay any longer, ,. I have a 5 pin and yes it is 30 and 87a

gerald m

This is where I took the dragon for the polished stainless manifold build , Will the guy in the video made most of this equipment right from scratch just from looking at different machines then goes back to the colony and builds them , all his home made equipment is VS drive . Looking forward to see what Will comes up with .. I fully explained the importance of the waste gate pipe being on the proper angle .. He figures to come of the engine with 2 inch blend them to three inch and then waste gate flange then turbo flange mount .

I have full confidence in him , The big boss told me Will has been making things ever since he was a little boy it just comes natural and has never needed any training I have saw some of the things he has made very smart man . I hope his pencil isn't as sharp as his mind . Enjoy ...

chainreaction

My new motor sounds funny.....

gerald m

Good to see ya Darryl , is that the engine you found for replacement . Plays quite a tune , I had a old 500 triumph flat head years ago with a fairly small long exhaust and it chirped just like that but just when idling .,, Thanks for sharing . What do you expect from this one for speed and distance ?