Chris's widebody project....
Dreamin of drivin my 7!
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From: Seabeck, Washington
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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From: Philomath Oregon.The five whole blocks of it!
Final coat down! Sand, buff and good to go!!!
I'll get detaped pics tomarrow, got a bad cold and am not doing anything tonight
I'll get detaped pics tomarrow, got a bad cold and am not doing anything tonight
Dreamin of drivin my 7!
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,073
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From: Seabeck, Washington
Great Job Joe! A little finishing and some assembly and that is gonna be one sexxy widebody! You should be proud. Lot's of blood sweat and tears in that ride. Nice craftsmanship though and it shows.
Both of us caught Joe's little terrorist's cold... 
The little turd got over it in a day or two... I'm coming up on a week and Joe's about 4 days into it.
Another day or two and we'll get the car unmasked and wet sanded in preperation for buffing.
The little turd got over it in a day or two... I'm coming up on a week and Joe's about 4 days into it.
Another day or two and we'll get the car unmasked and wet sanded in preperation for buffing.
ur gonna need new wheels that are wide and have a big lip to make ur car look good w/ the widebody. i found some really cool 4 spokes at keizer, heres the link. http://www.keizerwheels.com/ go under products, then road race and autocross wheels, and watch the image change. the one is of a 4 spoke that im considering. i emailed my specs of what i wanted on the wheel and for me they come out to around 350 a piece.
ur gonna need new wheels that are wide and have a big lip to make ur car look good w/ the widebody. i found some really cool 4 spokes at keizer, heres the link. http://www.keizerwheels.com/ go under products, then road race and autocross wheels, and watch the image change. the one is of a 4 spoke that im considering. i emailed my specs of what i wanted on the wheel and for me they come out to around 350 a piece.
At this time, the idea of sinking ANOTHER $1400 ($350 x 4) PLUS tires... say $2200-2500 pains me in ways you can't imagine
I'm sure you've heard of the expression "money pit"?... that would make my ride a "money grand canyon"..
... at least from my point of view
Soooooo... Everyone (who sounds like they know what they're talking about) says DO NOT CUT & BUFF SINGLE STAGE METALLIC PAINT!!!!
It seams a buffing wheel has a tendency to grab exposed metallic flakes (from wet sanding), rip them out and destroy the paint. YAH!!!
The general consensus is the only SAFE way to cut & buff single stage metallic paint IS BY HAND.
So… Joe and I will be lightly wet sanding the car with 2000 or 2500 paper and buffing it by hand. Ugh!!
Joe and I have a couple good things working in our favor. The paint is already VERY smooth (wet sanding will be to remove dust particals and such) and the metallic flake is a firemist = VERY fine.
Should look wicked good when its done though
Also... both of us are starting to get over our colds so we should be out in the shop shortly
It seams a buffing wheel has a tendency to grab exposed metallic flakes (from wet sanding), rip them out and destroy the paint. YAH!!!
The general consensus is the only SAFE way to cut & buff single stage metallic paint IS BY HAND.
So… Joe and I will be lightly wet sanding the car with 2000 or 2500 paper and buffing it by hand. Ugh!!
Joe and I have a couple good things working in our favor. The paint is already VERY smooth (wet sanding will be to remove dust particals and such) and the metallic flake is a firemist = VERY fine.
Should look wicked good when its done though
Also... both of us are starting to get over our colds so we should be out in the shop shortly
if you sray a couple of coats of clear over it then you can cut and buff with no worries.if you try to cut single stage metallic and have not done it before,i wouldn't go there,there isn't much resin that comes to the top.so you will most likely start to see rings were you went too far.at that point you have to paint it again.i have ten years of painting cars from single stage to tri coats.i don't mean to sound negative,but it would be a shame to have all of that hard work go down the drain.
Luckily, Joe does have experiance cuting & buffing single stage metallics by hand.
Thankfully, VERY little wet sanding will be needed as we're just looking to work some dust particales out and such.
The MAJORITY of the hard work was prep UP TO painting... we can always shoot it again... its only money
Thankfully, VERY little wet sanding will be needed as we're just looking to work some dust particales out and such.
The MAJORITY of the hard work was prep UP TO painting... we can always shoot it again... its only money
Dreamin of drivin my 7!
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Seabeck, Washington
if you sray a couple of coats of clear over it then you can cut and buff with no worries.if you try to cut single stage metallic and have not done it before,i wouldn't go there,there isn't much resin that comes to the top.so you will most likely start to see rings were you went too far.at that point you have to paint it again.i have ten years of painting cars from single stage to tri coats.i don't mean to sound negative,but it would be a shame to have all of that hard work go down the drain.
+1 PS- If you clear it first, then cut and buff, 1 coat of quality wax, and then use marine teflon wax sealer, you will get the "show room finish" and an SPF of 50 top protect that beautiful paint. It's the same way they they do million dollar yachts. (protect your investment) Just my 2cents. Having worked in a spray booth and run a detail shop.
