Sputtering on startup then died
#1
Sputtering on startup then died
I have owned my 93 FD for a few months now and it would always start up no questions asked.
I ran into an issue about a month ago where the car suddenly would just crank and crank but wouldnt start.
After a long long while of cranking it finally started, struggled, but ran fine after that....
I did not have any problems after that then fast forwarding to here recently to about a week ago....
The car would start but kinda sputter at low rpms ( under 1k )
If given a little bit of throttle, it would back fire.
However, once it ran for about 2-3 minutes while sputtering, it ran like normal.
This has been a consistent issue till today
Im not sure if this matters to the problem but the car was stone cold and i went to add coolant before i try and start the car
and there was still pressure built up, so coolant spewed out when trying to take the coolant cap off.
I checked the oil cap and it was dry ( usually has some moisture )
Any who, I went to start the car and it again would sputter however this time after not even 30 seconds the car just died and would not start again
The car would still crank and crank but wont start
I can hear the fuel pump priming
When the key is left on the on position after cranking there is a long beep or buzzing sound coming from the engine bay and goes away when the key is turned off
Overall, im thinking maybe no more spark or an issue with getting fuel to where it should be.
If someone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated!!
Current Mods if it helps narrow the cause:
Apexi Power FC
Center mount intercooler
M2 Performance intake box
AST
No cats
SMOG Delete
I ran into an issue about a month ago where the car suddenly would just crank and crank but wouldnt start.
After a long long while of cranking it finally started, struggled, but ran fine after that....
I did not have any problems after that then fast forwarding to here recently to about a week ago....
The car would start but kinda sputter at low rpms ( under 1k )
If given a little bit of throttle, it would back fire.
However, once it ran for about 2-3 minutes while sputtering, it ran like normal.
This has been a consistent issue till today
Im not sure if this matters to the problem but the car was stone cold and i went to add coolant before i try and start the car
and there was still pressure built up, so coolant spewed out when trying to take the coolant cap off.
I checked the oil cap and it was dry ( usually has some moisture )
Any who, I went to start the car and it again would sputter however this time after not even 30 seconds the car just died and would not start again
The car would still crank and crank but wont start
I can hear the fuel pump priming
When the key is left on the on position after cranking there is a long beep or buzzing sound coming from the engine bay and goes away when the key is turned off
Overall, im thinking maybe no more spark or an issue with getting fuel to where it should be.
If someone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated!!
Current Mods if it helps narrow the cause:
Apexi Power FC
Center mount intercooler
M2 Performance intake box
AST
No cats
SMOG Delete
Last edited by Munind; 04-18-18 at 03:24 PM. Reason: Overlooked typo
#2
Sounds like the car might be flooded. Check out this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...d-help-324236/
Hopefully thats it.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...d-help-324236/
Hopefully thats it.
#6
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Im not sure if this matters to the problem but the car was stone cold and i went to add coolant before i try and start the car
and there was still pressure built up, so coolant spewed out when trying to take the coolant cap off.
I checked the oil cap and it was dry ( usually has some moisture )
and there was still pressure built up, so coolant spewed out when trying to take the coolant cap off.
I checked the oil cap and it was dry ( usually has some moisture )
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...essure-409994/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-wrong-188207/
See post #3 here for additional, possibly related symptoms:
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...r-seal-941463/
Last edited by Sgtblue; 04-22-18 at 10:10 AM.
#7
Check the line going from the filler neck to the AST and from the AST to the overflow tank. Make sure it's clear and not kinked. You might check your caps too...but something is up. Worse case scenario is explained in the links. Leaking coolant could also explain why you had to add coolant, hard cold start and initial stumbling idle....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...essure-409994/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-wrong-188207/
See post #3 here for additional, possibly related symptoms:
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...r-seal-941463/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...essure-409994/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-wrong-188207/
See post #3 here for additional, possibly related symptoms:
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...r-seal-941463/
UPDATE:
I let the car idle for about 10 minutes and took a step away from the car for 2 minutes and i heard the "add coolant" light beep and ran back to the car and the temp read 122C on the PFC.... I immediately cut the car off and just hear some sort of ticking noise coming from the engine bay.
I honestly don't know what went wrong .....
I look on the ground and see a medium sized flow of coolant under the passenger side headlight (i concluded it was from the overflow tank )
Fast forward a little bit as i let the car cool down.
I removed the intercooler and intake to take a look at the lines as you mentioned and the lines were good.
I then go to add coolant to the AST till it was full, closed it and left the lift tab on the cap up, then added more through the filler cap till it started spilling out through the overflow tank.
( added a little over 3 quarters of the gallon )
I started the car again and sat in there watching the temps and everything was normal again.
when the car got to 96C the fans would turn on and drop to 90C
I checked the coolant after i let the car cool down and it was where it should be.
I still want to try and bleed the system. Hopefully, there is just a pocket of air that is evaporating my coolant away....
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#8
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
In addition to the system remaining pressurized when cold, which i think is uncommon but still points toward failed coolant seals, you have more than a few of the other symptoms set out in the last linked thread I gave you...stumbling cold start idle, coolant overflow reservoir overflowing, missing coolant, air in the system etc. It looks like you have one or more coolant seal failures.
#9
In addition to the system remaining pressurized when cold, which i think is uncommon but still points toward failed coolant seals, you have more than a few of the other symptoms set out in the last linked thread I gave you...stumbling cold start idle, coolant overflow reservoir overflowing, missing coolant, air in the system etc. It looks like you have one or more coolant seal failures.
#10
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
There really is no "mild" coolant seal failure. It's like saying someone is "sort of" pregnant or "mildly" dead.
It's going to require complete disassembly of the engine block, so typically any other wear items are replaced at the same time and things like injectors are cleaned. As I mentioned in that link, I wouldn't wait too long. Depending on where the failure is, putting it off along time can cause corrosion of the irons and make them unusable.
It's going to require complete disassembly of the engine block, so typically any other wear items are replaced at the same time and things like injectors are cleaned. As I mentioned in that link, I wouldn't wait too long. Depending on where the failure is, putting it off along time can cause corrosion of the irons and make them unusable.
The following users liked this post:
Munind (04-24-18)
#11
There really is no "mild" coolant seal failure. It's like saying someone is "sort of" pregnant or "mildly" dead.
It's going to require complete disassembly of the engine block, so typically any other wear items are replaced at the same time and things like injectors are cleaned. As I mentioned in that link, I wouldn't wait too long. Depending on where the failure is, putting it off along time can cause corrosion of the irons and make them unusable.
It's going to require complete disassembly of the engine block, so typically any other wear items are replaced at the same time and things like injectors are cleaned. As I mentioned in that link, I wouldn't wait too long. Depending on where the failure is, putting it off along time can cause corrosion of the irons and make them unusable.
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