ok Im geting my white rx7 ready for drifting this summer, and I finaly took the leep and decided to rewire the whole car. basicly I want to run everything off a toggle switch head light moters, head lights, wind sheild wipers, dash and marker lights, fuel pump, main power for the car, and a push button for the starter. I want to relocate the fuse block in the engine bay to somwere under the dash, and delet the stock fuse block to the left of the clutch pedale and just have two six fuse fuse blocks. the engine is going to be taken care of with a haltech. and I will need to keep the cpu for the turn signals and hazerd lights. now I have a few questions. were does the wire that pluges in to the back of the alternater go/come from and what does it do? were will I be sending my dash/marker light wires to on my gauge cluster and so on from my toggle switch? how will I be wireing in my cpu? and im having some trouble revers enginering my factory switches so I can figure out how to operate my headlights and wipers and such off of toggle switches. I mean its got to be just 12 volts and ground in the right places right If some one could give me an idea there that would be great! I know you all probably have some questions before you can give me any answers so fire away. and sorry no build thread yet my camara is broke.

 

FSM: http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/

Sounds like you should familiarize yourself with basic wiring before you tackle this project.

If the car truly is just a drift car, then by a universal hot-rod harness from somewhere like Painless wiring. Lose the CPU and install regular old flashers.

 

well I am going to be driving the car on the streets to so I will need my turn signals I will look in to that. I have all of the cars wireing sitting in my basment I am going to diesect it tonight and see what all I need out of it. and what all I have to make. Im good with wireing when it comes to cars just not stock wireing. the wireing in my car will be easy I just need a little help in a few areas. I will have a much greater under standing of how to do this after I go through the stock wireing tonight. what would be the best way to hook up the main power to the car through a toggle switch so it basicly dose the same thing as the igntion switch when I flip it on? and then I have to hook up a push button to the starter. the battery will be behind the pasanger seat and the + wire will run right to the starter and then from the starter I geuss to my fuse blocks after my main power toggle switch how does that sound?

 

Don't run the positive wire like that. It causes massive voltage drop when cranking the car. Either run two wires from the breaker at the battery (one to fuse panel, one to starter) or split the line before the starter with a junction point and use heavy gauge (0 gauge) wire.

The stock wiring has a LOT of stuff in it because it also controls the heater and all functions on the car. Honestly, unless weight savings is a massive requirement, I'd leave it alone and only remove the most obvious extra wires.

Now on a full track car, it's easy because the ECU wiring can be self contained and you can use an inexpensive Painless harness for everything else.

 

well I striped all the electrical tape and stuff off of all my wireing the other night and I now under stand some much better how it all works. yea I prity much realized that would be a bed way of wireing it after I stripped the battery wires and stuff apart and saw how the power actualy gets to everything. I think I should be able to slowly go through all this wireing and remove what I dont need. if I could figure out how to run my headlight bulbs and moters, and wipers of the battery through toggle switches that would be a huge chunk of this done. and I think I should be able to keep the cpu I will just make sure I keep all the wires needed to use it. I realy wish my camara didnt break!

 

ok I figured out where my alternater wire/plug that goes to the back of the alternater goes. the white wire goes to the cpu and the black wire grounds to one of the big blue plugs in the harness. what is this wires job exactly? dosent it send the alternator 12volts to exite it? and if so can I hook it up to my 12volt ignition toggle switch I am going to have and just ground the black wire somewhere?

 

Have you looked at the schematic in the Haynes or FSM? One wire goes to the warning cluster, one goes to the CPU for 12V excitation.

Note that you need the wire to the warning cluster because the blub is part of the regulator circuit.

 

so I should just leave those wires as they are then? or can I send the white wire for 12volts to my main power toggle switch and just keep the black wire to the warning cluster?I look at the fsm here and there but I do better just looking at the wireing sins I have it all layed out and un wraped.

 

ok so I looked in to it and the black wire goes to the fuel pump relay and to the cpu and charge warning light and egi opening relay I belive. so its tighed in to all off that **** what would be the best way to simplefy that. coz I think im geting rid of the fuel pump relay coz If running the fuel pump right off the battery trought a toggle switch. and can you tell my what exactly these relays do the one behind the passenger side headlight, then I have to more that go in front of the radiater I belive they are healight related, the starter opening relay, and egi relay.

 

Do not, I repeat do not run the fuel pump via a toggle switch! The pump needs to be switched by the ECU so that in the event of a collision, the fuel pump stops when the engine stops running. If you have a toggle switch, and the car is on it's back while you are knocked out, the fuel pump will happily keep pumping fuel through the broken fuel line onto the fire. And then you enjoy burning to death in a gasoline fueled fire.

At the very least, you need to connect an inertia switch to the pump so that if the car is upside down or hit hard, the pump is shut off.

I'm betting you'd fail the tech at most tracks without some kind of fuel pump safety switch. Also remember that you'll need a master cutoff switch for the electrical system accessible from outside the car.

I do not have my Haynes manual handy so I can't look up the wiring. It sounds like you should probably just keep the CPU. Or, make things very easy on yourself and replace the crappy old FC alternator with an aftermarket single wire alternator.

 

big firey crash HAHAHA I didnt even think of that I geuss I will just hook it up to the ecu trough a relay like your suppost to but I will still have a toggle switch so I can shut it off if I flood the engine. an aftermarket single wire altornater I have never heard of one of those. how is it differant from a regular altornater?

 

Good luck man

 

This should explain it:
Single Wire Alternator Info

 

ok I just looked in to those and omg that will make things SO MUCH SIMPLER! I looked and gzmotersports has some in the 200 doller range so I will probably just get one of those. and I just figured out how to wire my starter straight to the battery through a push button just power and ground to the starter and then the push button connects to the two studs on the starter solinoid. wow this wireing is getting easier and easier real quick!!! now the only thing left is the accesories that need to be connected to the battery through toggle switches (head lights, and head light moters, wipers, marker lights) and I still have to figure out how I am going to distribute the power from the battery I have been going through alot of ideas on doing this in my head nothing for sure yet. should I give everything power straight from the alternater or should I give everything power from the battery +post and then have the alternator wire merge in to the wire coming from the +pos in to everything? I am starting to wonder if I will even need the fuse block from the engine bay any more I know I will probably use the main fuse out of it.