Previous owner told me the steering box was replaced, and it's kind of tight, because it's new, so if I want to make adjustments, I can do it with the screw.

So I tired that today, and the screw won't turn. Do I need to loosen the nut first?

Here's what it looks like:



I looked at the FSM and Haynes, and they don't seem to cover the P/S box.

 

Yep, that's the locknut...I'll wait for a power steering guru to speak up. I know the procedure on the manual boxes and have done it a couple of times, but I don't know if it's the exact same procedure when dealing with a juice box.

Mario III

 

Yeah, manual steering box has that huge 40mm nut, right? Not seeing it on the P/S one, so I'm assuming it's not there. Would be good to hear from someone who knows the method for sure, before I screw anything up.

 

The following link talks about adjusting both manual and power in Gen1 RX7.
Seems like the best write up that I have found. The only thing I differ on is that the manual box requires a 6 point 41mm socket, not a 12 point 40mm socket.
http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm

 

Can someone chime in about power steering adjustment? I have the same box pictured in the OP and all the instructions I am finding are for manual gear boxes that look entirely different. Mine has a 17mm nut with a screw in the middle. When I loosen the nut the screw moves with it. I gave it a shot of penetrating fluid and might give it another go, but I don't want to strip the screw.

 

I have only adjusted the manual version on the 1st gen RX7. The following link is very good for the manual version and has a few comments at the end regarding the Power versions. Mazspeed's First Generation Rx-7 Club Page
On all recirculating ball type steering boxes, I either hold the slotted adjusting screw steady when breaking the nut loose, or mark it (note the angle) prior to breaking the nut loose. Typically that screw only needs to be adjusted about 1/16th of a turn. I hope this helps.

 

Bump, any update on this?

 

I put some vice grips on the end of the largest flat blade screw driver I had and was able to get my p/s box to tighten up, however I still have some play (only an issue above 60 mph on straight roads) so I need to look into replacing the idler arm and other stuff underneath.

 

I bought my 41mm socket online. They can run from $5 to $30 depending on where you get them. Most of the impact type have a lot of lead in to the hex socket. I put mine in a lathe and faced off the end so that it engages fully with the thin nut. If anyone has chewed up the nut, then you will want to do this before it get totally destroyed.

 

Thanks, I'll have to tackle mine. Otherwise the posted guide was good?

 

Yes for the p/s box, loosen the nut on the outside (I think it is 17mm) and hold it in place with the wrench while you tighten the bolt in the center with a flat head screwdriver. Do it in small 1/4 turn increments, tighten the outer bolt back up, and check the steering wheel for play before going tighter.