TurboFig

iTrader: (1)

Strap in, it's a doozy. It's an FC generation Rx-7 that I've been wrenching on for the past two years (parked outside for 14 years before I started touching it). Initially, it was smooth sailing, I replaced the fuel pump, cleaned up the gas tank and replaced the battery and she fired right up. However, she overheated and I had to do some more repairs to the cooling system. I have a small issue with getting ahead of myself and in this meantime of repairing my cooling system, I redid all the brake lines, replaced both clutch cylinders, started on a 4-piston caliper conversion in the front, replaced my battery terminals and a few other miscellaneous things. But now there's a much larger issue. One night I went out to just flip the pop-up headlights for some gratification and nothing happened. Well, let me rephrase. Some of the electricals work, others don't.

The full list of what works and doesn't as I have found so far:

Working: Two of the front running lights (only on the right side), cigarette lighter lights up, interior dash lights, interior dome light, sunroof opened, taillights, electric side mirrors move

The issues: Pop-ups don't move, headlights don't come on, door ajar light is always on but no other warning lights show, the clock doesn't light up, sunroof doesn't close, blinkers do nothing at all, windshield wipers don't move.

I don't have a radio currently installed (I'm working on that) so I'm not sure if that or the antenna works. I tried cleaning up the shock tower ground to no success. When I looked for the ground hidden behind the intake manifold, it wasn't there but I think I know where it was moved. Pictures will come later tonight when I'm done with work and get the time. Any ideas about what could fix this?

TurboFig

iTrader: (1)

Pictures, as promised


First, the shock tower main ground I redid

The yellow wire is what I believe to be the ECU ground as it comes off the some harness it usually would, but correct me if I’m wrong

Finally here’s the battery terminals I used if that’s at all relevant

Rotary Alkymist

That yellow wire is the coolant temperature sensor.

I would recommend that you upgrade your posts when you have the chance. Those posts will give you trouble down the road.

Have you checked the PAL fuses on the strut tower and on the fuses by the driver's left foot?

The headlight motor fuse is located on the strut tower.

TurboFig

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for replying. My only thought is that the car was sitting with the battery unplugged, so would it even be possible for a fuse to go out? Also, do you have any recommendations for battery posts? Looks like I'll be pulling that intake manifold off to find that ground though...

Rotary Alkymist

You want a post that is crimped and soldered(properly). It's the only way you can be confident that you will have zero issues years later. It's not something that has to be done now but just keep it in mind.

Fuses are about the easiest thing to check on a vehicle. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether a fuse is burnt or not by visual inspection. Testing with an ohm meter is the surest way.

TurboFig

iTrader: (1)

Went through to test the fuses and I felt so dumb. When I changed the posts, turns out I put them on backwards. 3 of the fuses are burnt out too but swapping the terminals solved just about everything. Thanks for the help.

Rotary Alkymist

Oh! Man, it's so subtle but I do see the negative sign! Damn, it was a lost opportunity for everyone lol.

Thats good man. Good luck with the build.

TurboFig

iTrader: (1)

I'm just glad that it was something really simple, now I can get back to the other aspects of this car. Cheers.