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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 11:10 PM
  #1  
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From: bradenton fl
FL click click start

my 89 rx7 vert started clicking and wouldnt start after checking the battery,alternator all the normal stuff all good I read some threads and came up with either clutch switch or starter cut relay someone said to hold the key to start and pump the clutch it worked So does that mean i need a new clutch switch and if so who would hav one
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 12:04 AM
  #2  
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
You should be posting in the Sec Gen Specific section as you now have enough posts.
BUT,I am not only a Moderator,I am a Member too,so here is a LINK.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...r-fix-1009440/
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 06:35 AM
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Test your starter before you waste your time in something else.
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
You should be posting in the Sec Gen Specific section as you now have enough posts.
BUT,I am not only a Moderator,I am a Member too,so here is a LINK.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...r-fix-1009440/
Be advised that this fix will bypass the clutch saftey switch; you will be able to start the car without the clutch and therefore it may be possible to start the car in gear.
Originally Posted by linuslove
Hi. I do not know where to post a technical issue I am having with my 1990 Mazda RX7 GXL. Can someone here tell me where?
This section is dedicated for new people with technical questions:
New Member RX-7 Technical - RX7Club.com
As stated above, once you are more familar or comfortable with technical discussion about your car there is a regular technical section.
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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From: bradenton fl
FL

Originally Posted by misterstyx69
You should be posting in the Sec Gen Specific section as you now have enough posts.
BUT,I am not only a Moderator,I am a Member too,so here is a LINK.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...r-fix-1009440/
Ok but while were here let me ask is the clutch-start-sensor the clutch safety switch or clutch interlock switch and would either one or both affect the having to pump the clutch to get it from a clicking to starting cause when you just get in it and push the clutch in and turn the key it clicks but when you pump the clutch a few times and hold the key to start it turns right over
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #6  
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From: bradenton fl
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Originally Posted by Hernan1209
Test your starter before you waste your time in something else.
ya like i said i checked all that
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
The switch hits the clutch arm assembly so if it doesnt it it the right way it won't engage the switch,so you won;t get to start the car.
YES the car will not have the SAFETY anymore.
I believe the thread tells you that.
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #8  
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From: bradenton fl
FL

Originally Posted by misterstyx69
You should be posting in the Sec Gen Specific section as you now have enough posts.
BUT,I am not only a Moderator,I am a Member too,so here is a LINK.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...r-fix-1009440/
that link shows a clutch interlock switch whats the diff between that and the clutch safety switch the FSM shows them both
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rsantaniello
that link shows a clutch interlock switch whats the diff between that and the clutch safety switch the FSM shows them both
The other one is for cruise control.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #10  
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From: bradenton fl
FL interlock switch

just wanted to let everyone know that the problem was the clutch interlock switch i jumper it and it starts rightup everytime now i dont know if i want to replace it or not i just wonder if it will do any harm if i dont

Last edited by rsantaniello; Sep 13, 2012 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
There will be no damage unless you forget to depress the clutch on start up w/the car in gear and the car lurches foward and rams into something.
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 12:58 PM
  #12  
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From: bradenton fl
FL

Originally Posted by satch
There will be no damage unless you forget to depress the clutch on start up w/the car in gear and the car lurches foward and rams into something.
thanks for all your help
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Old Sep 18, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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From: San diego
I'm having a similar problem with mine but the mechanic said it was something with the ecu for me. Which sucks cause the cars wiring is horrible
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #14  
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From: bradenton fl
FL

well today after class i went to start the car and it started clicking not like before but clicking over and over the battery check o9ut at 12.69 volts its fairly new But got the cables out and jumped it did the same then i remembered someone told me that when you jumper the interlock switch sometimes it affect the solenoid and to tryputing it in gear with the clutch in (the jumper cables were still on) and try it i did after i bumped the ing key it started up drov it to the house let it sit an hour or so went out and it started right up so i dont know what to think DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW

Last edited by rsantaniello; Sep 25, 2012 at 06:52 PM.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gsalazar
I'm having a similar problem with mine but the mechanic said it was something with the ecu for me. Which sucks cause the cars wiring is horrible
the ECU has NOTHING to do with the starter circuit at all, your mechanic isn't a mechanic, he is a ripoff artist or uneducated enough to not be working on electrical circuits as he obviously cannot read a vehicle's wiring diagram.

Originally Posted by rsantaniello
well today after class i went to start the car and it started clicking not like before but clicking over and over the battery check o9ut at 12.69 volts its fairly new But got the cables out and jumped it did the same then i remembered someone told me that when you jumper the interlock switch sometimes it affect the solenoid and to tryputing it in gear with the clutch in (the jumper cables were still on) and try it i did after i bumped the ing key it started up drov it to the house let it sit an hour or so went out and it started right up so i dont know what to think DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW

putting the car in gear does nothing to the starter circuit, but something gave in the wiring that it coincidentally started when you did that, perhaps the jumper cables just weren't attached cleanly.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 25, 2012 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rsantaniello
well today after class i went to start the car and it started clicking not like before but clicking over and over the battery check o9ut at 12.69 volts its fairly new But got the cables out and jumped it did the same then i remembered someone told me that when you jumper the interlock switch sometimes it affect the solenoid and to tryputing it in gear with the clutch in (the jumper cables were still on) and try it i did after i bumped the ing key it started up drov it to the house let it sit an hour or so went out and it started right up so i dont know what to think DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW
The most common reason I've seen for a starter to click but not engage is a battery going bad, espeically if it always starts with a jump.
Second possiibility is too much resistance either in the positive wiring or in the ground wiring. A zero dollar test of the ground wiring is to use both jumper cables (pos and neg) in parallel from the negative battery terminal connector over to the engine block, if it starts OK then you may have too much resistance in your ground wiring.

I like bypassing the clutch safety switch, either mechanically with a piece of metal over the switch so it can be unmodified easily or with a jumper wire. I make a point of always having my right foot on the brake when startring the car. If anything goes wrong the car isn't going to move.
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Old Sep 29, 2012 | 02:58 PM
  #17  
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From: bradenton fl
what about a solenoid problem if it was going bad would that make it do that

Last edited by rsantaniello; Sep 29, 2012 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Oct 1, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #18  
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Have you checked the ground connection to the engine where the negative batt cable attaches at the trans bell housing? The bolt may be loose or perhaps the last time the clutch was replaced the mechanic forgot to reattach it.
When you remove both battery terminals are the connection areas clean and shiny? It's a good idea to take a flat bladed screwdriver to both the battery and terminal side and do a test scrape to check for any hard oxidation on the contact surfaces, the oxidation will create the clicking condition you describe. Even if the contact surfaces don't have green corrosion on them they might have hard oxidation that WILL kill the current when the high current load kicks in.
Are the terminal ends factory original or replacements, either way look at them for the same corrosion. If aftermarket look at the stranding in the cables, any corrosion there, if yes, spray penetrating oil into the stranding, but corrosion there usually means it's time for a replacement cable.
If all that is OK and the connection at the bell housing is clean and tight, look next at the starter wire connections.
Another test is to check voltages at the starter when the clicking is occurring to start to isolate where you are losing the current.
If you are insistent on thinking it is the starter, check that the starter attachment bolts are clean and tight and you could rig up a test wire and trigger the solenoid repeatedly. If it's the solenoid it should be intermittent, right?
Most times the problem is in the wiring between the battery and the starter though.
I would concentrate on the heavy cabling and not the solenoid trigger wire at this point.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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After all of the usual suspects have been tested/checked, this thread may be for you: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ystery-896013/

The clutch switch, a loose/dirty negative battery connection, or broken/dirty starter solenoid connector or the ignition switch can be sources of starting problems. But the wiring itself can also be to blame after 25 years of baking in the engine bay. The starter solenoid wire tends to be the most affected, which is where the fix above comes in. Running new wiring is also an option.
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