I did an engine swap. Car ran decently. Then it blew an oil cooler hose and died (was not completely out of oil). I replaced oil line and filled oil. Now I can't get any spark. I did the ohm test to the coils and crank position sensor, all within range. Where do I go from here?
Being rather old school, is it possible to convert to the early distributor and coil ignition?

 

Check the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse located in the engine fuse box. If that fuse is good then w/key to the on position the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil should have battery voltage (12 volts or so) and this fuse powers the voltage wire at the coil (talking about the Black/Yellow wire here). The Black/Yellow wire is in a white two wire plug connected to the leading coil. If there is no voltage and the 40 amp EGI INJ fuse is good then check the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box and replace if necessary. This fuse powers the Main Relay which allows the Black/Yellow wire to have voltage under certain conditions (key to on/start).

 

I checked the fuses and had power to the black and yellow wire. Still no spark. Help.

 

If you went to the ECU and checked the voltage/values it would give you a heads up on what is wrong. The CAS needs to be sending a signal to the ECU for spark to occur. If you had a spare CAS you could connect to the CAS plug and spin its wheel w/the key to on you should be able to hear the injectors click and the plugs should fire. Also, the coils need to be bolted to a clean surface of the fender for grounding purposes or they won't fire. Also, the ECU needs to be powered up w/key to on and the ECU pin 3I should have battery voltage w/key to on to indicate so. There is a check connector plug near the leading coil which has a Black/White wire which ends up at the ECU to power it on. You can check for battery voltage w/"key to on" to give you some more insight. Or you could also disconnect the plug to the Pressure Sensor and measure for voltage on the Brown/White wire and it should read about 5 volts w/key to on and this would prove that the ECU is powerd up properly. And the Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil should have voltage "w/key to on" that flips back and forth between having 0 volts to 5 volts back and forth as the engine is turned over by hand (direction of the turning is not important). Turning the alternator pulley is a method to rotate the engine to conduct this check. Additionally you could check the ohms of the CAS at the CAS itself and more importantly at the ECU to see if the ECU is receiving the proper signal so it can create spark and fuel. To do this ohm out the Green wire and the Blue wire together and it should read 110 to 220 ohms and this is "w/the key to OFF." Do the same thing w/the other two wires of the CAS which is Red wire and the White wire. With multimeter set to ohms one meter lead goes to the Green wire and the other meter lead to the Blue wire and again, this is w/key to off. Do the same thing/test on the Red and White wires of the CAS.

 

I found battery voltage at check plug black/white. Had good ground at both coils. Checked Crank Angle sensor 179.4 ohms both pairs. Green/yellow fluttered between .2 and -.3 volts.
I'm not sure what the pressure sensor is, the only brown/white wire I could find went to a solinoid valve on drivers side of intake (connected to plenum nd to 1/4" or so pipe across top) measure 2.47 volts. Next?

 

The Pressure Sensor is mounted to the passenger strut housing/fender and has four wires to it. One wire is Black/White and has 12 volts w/key to on. The Brown/Red wire is an output wire and sends a signal to the ECU and it would normally read about 2.5 volts w/key to on w/the plug connected. There is also a ground wire which should have o volts w/key to on and lastly there is the Vref wire which supplies the sensor with 5 volts w/key to on. The wiring colors on an 86 vary some when compared to the 88 online wiring diagram so to remove any doubt just measure the voltage on all wires at the sensor.

As far as the G/Y wire at the leading coil is concerned the engine needs to be turned over by "hand" and not by cranking the starter to do this test for the voltage readings necessary to see won't happen. Not sure if this was your problem but it requires hand cranking. When done properly the voltage should stay at 0 volts and then breifly hit 5 volts and then quickly back to o volts. The reading you provided is not proper.

 

At the pressure switch the black/wt has only 2.5 volts,brown/red had .77 volts, black 0 and brown/wt had 1.32 volts. If I supply black/wt with 12 volts then brown/red has 22. v and brown/wt has 5 v.
I was turning the engine over by hand an only geting . to .3 volts at green/yellow wire.

 

Sorry "If I supply black/wt with 12 volts then brown/red has" 2.5 volts

 

Disconnect the plug to the Pressure sensor and w/key to on the voltage on the B/W wire should be 12 volts so see if this voltage reading varies depending on whether the plug is disconnected versus connected. It should not read low voltage under either scenario. There is a Green check connector plug near the leading coil which has 4 wires to it. Besides the B/W wire the other 3 are Y, Y/B and Y/R. Check this B/W wire w/key to on and it should read 12 volts as it is the same wire that is at the Pressure sensor. If it reads low voltage again then make sure the "30 amp EGI COMP" fuse in the "engine fuse box" is good.

Your reading of the G/Y wire is puzzling as well, but all of this is likely tied to the low voltage found on the B/W wire as it powers the ECU. You either have a blown COMP fuse, or a short in the B/W wire or a connector is not mated good enough to allow the voltage on the B/W wire to be 12 volts w/key to on where and when it needs to be and this possibility would be very likely "if" the voltage is 12 volts at the check connector but not at the Pressure sensor.

 

i swaped motor on my 86 and i dont have any ground or voltage at g/y to the coil but both of my coils have power and i checked grounds at ecu and on the 3 main and i got less than 0.02v. i swear before i removed the coils that i did have 12v at the leading plug and i have checked ground at the coils..... where there mounted to the body and it measures good anything i missed as far as not getting anything at the g/y on leading. the ecu also doesnt have any signal on the g/y wire i think its terminal v on ecu.

 

Do you have battery voltage w/key to on at pin 3I (Black/White wire)?

 

where does that go vaf or boost or u talking about ecu pin

 

I'm talking about the ECU at pin 3I.

 

k got it ill check at noon and hit u guys back up but what does it have to do with the g/y i followed the wireing diagram and see that b/w does go in the main relay with the + for coils b/y but how does it affect the green yellow

 

Got 12v at pin 3. I and 12v at boost sensor b/w

 

On tp sensor 3 wires brn/w .330v brn/blk 0v and grn/red 0.84v

 

The Brown/White wire you state that has .33 volts is supposed to be 5 volts as this is the voltage reference (Vref). At the "ECU" w/key to on measure the voltage on pin 2A (Brown/White wire). It should read 5 volts or so.

 

.335v

 

Hey my engine comp is only measuring 3.55v ..... Shouldn't it be 12v

 

It appears one of the sensors connected to pin 2A is shorting out thus dropping down the voltage or the problem lies within the ECU. Pin 2A connects to the TPS, Boost sensor, AFM, Variable Resistor and the Atmospheric Pressure sensor. What you need to do is disconnect the plug to the TPS and then measure pin 2A again. If it stays the same then disconnect the plug to the Boost sensor while leaving the TPS plug unplugged, and then measure pin 2A again. If the voltage continues to stay low then disconnect the plug to the Variable Resistor and measure the voltage once again. If the voltage is still low then disconnect the plug to either the AFM or Atmosheric Pressure sensor and once again measure the voltage and if it remains at low levels then remove the plug from the final sensor so pin 2A can be measured a final time. If all sensors are removed and pin 2A still measures .33 volts or so then the ECU is at fault or the wire from pin 2A is grounding out somewhere within the Emission harness.

 

K thanks what about engine comp .... All others are 12v but that one and when u ground it to battery u get 12v I havent looked at diagram again but Idk is that normal or cause the short

 

Two other issues are coolant buzzer stays on probably cause I broke sensor on radiator install and I dont get rpm while cranking

 

What is "engine comp"? And what does "all others" mean?

 

Engine comp fuse if u look in engine bay it says on box engine comp

 

All the other fuses under hood 12v I think reaactor is 0v but probably cause that sounds like old school for alternator i think